What Brand or Type of Oil Should I Use in my Ryker??? Must it be safe for wet-clutch?

[graysonsway]

Hi Guy's I will be changing my oil at 2000mi on my 2 Ryker 600's. In a previous thread someone used Rotela T6 but I don't remember why and I cannot find it. What oil are you going to use in your oil changes and why. Thanks! Mike

[Chupaca]

So many to choose from as long as they meet the spec's in your owners manual. I use the kits from XPS blended oil but you will get a flood of others using a wide range of oils on the market. Good luck wading through your choices.... I know the vast majority avoid anything dealer/Manufacture recommended but that does not make it bad. XPS is a Castrol product and up there with the best.

[ARtraveler]

Just a heads up. Oil threads and tire threads of late usually get prematurely closed down due to infighting. A touchy subject of which many have very STRONG opinions.

As usual, opinions are welcomed, disagreement is okay. But, lets be respectful to others.

[Mazo EMS2]

Assuming you bought them new, you got a manual. I would take a peek at the manual and see what it says. Otherwise, sift through the opinions of all who will share. In the end, they're OPINIONS based on favorites and personal experiences. Rotella T6 has been known to be a good oil used by many, including myself. But hey, that's my OPINION.

[Jeriatric]

.
Personally I use different oils for different bikes. They all have their likes and dislikes.

As a start, you still should rely on the API and SAE recommendations from the manuals for your specific bike.

Read this over and reach your own conclusion. For information purposes only.

Edit: Once open scroll to the top of the article.

https://bestsyntheticoilguide.com/sy...ew/#tab-con-10

[Tango]

I really like the Rotella 5-40. BUT! Dealer will only use BRP oil and filter. Tom

[Jeriatric]

I really like the Rotella 5-40. BUT! Dealer will only use BRP oil and filter. Tom

Rotella T6 is a great product, when used in a bike that calls for its API SAE rating. I use it exclusively in the FJR. That said, it would take out the clutch in my SE5 Spyder in less than a few hundred miles. Using oil that's not API & SAE rated for for your bike, can be expensive.

[Easy Rider]

Go to the motorcycle oil section of your favorite auto parts store.
Pick a "brand name" synthetic MOTORCYCLE oil with a viscosity near to what your book recommends.
Rotella T6 is good too and has the proper certifications for wet clutches too.

When I was doing my own changes.....on a bunch of different bikes.......I used Mobil One 4T bike oil, but it's kind of expensive.

[jcthorne]

What rating is it you think the T6 does not have for your SE5?

[Jeriatric]

What rating is it you think the T6 does not have for your SE5?

From my owners manual:

Owner's manual calls for API SL, SJ, SH and SG. To avoid damaging the clutch, do not use >API SM or IL SACGF-4 classification. Clutch slippage will occur.

Rotella T6 is rated API SN, SM

That's the best information I have.

[Mazo EMS2]

Rotella T6 is a great product, when used in a bike that calls for its API SAE rating. I use it exclusively in the FJR. That said, it would take out the clutch in my SE5 Spyder in less than a few hundred miles. Using oil that's not API & SAE rated for for your bike, can be expensive.

I snipped this from the Shell website regarding Rotella T6 Click on it, it'll enlarge it Capture.PNG

[Jeriatric]

I snipped this from the Shell website regarding Rotella T6 Click on it, it'll enlarge it Capture.PNG

See post above, then check your owners manual for applicable API ratings.

[Easy Rider]

That said, it would take out the clutch in my SE5 Spyder in less than a few hundred miles.

Those Spyder owners who ARE using it would find that revelation rather amazing.

I bet that you have no actual evidence to back up that statement.

[Jeriatric]

Those Spyder owners who ARE using it would find that revelation rather amazing.

I bet that you have no actual evidence to back up that statement.

In fact I do. However, it matters not to me what other people do. All I've done is passed along BRP's recommendations. What each individual does with said information is their choice.

[BajaRon]

Go to the motorcycle oil section of your favorite auto parts store.
Pick a "brand name" synthetic MOTORCYCLE oil with a viscosity near to what your book recommends.
Rotella T6 is good too and has the proper certifications for wet clutches too.

When I was doing my own changes.....on a bunch of different bikes.......I used Mobil One 4T bike oil, but it's kind of expensive.

The burning question is... Why use a motorcycle specific oil (designed for a wet clutch and transmission application) when the Ryker requires neither of these? Why not use an automotive oil which has friction modifiers helpful to engine components, thus optimizing the oil for the application?

[Cruzr Joe]

My practice has been to use the Manufactures oil while still under warranty.

Cruzr Joe

[Jeriatric]

The burning question is... Why use a motorcycle specific oil (designed for a wet clutch and transmission application) when the Ryker requires neither of these? Why not use an automotive oil which has friction modifiers helpful to engine components, thus optimizing the oil for the application?

Ah man.........there ya go. Making things simple again. jk

[cueman]

The burning question is... Why use a motorcycle specific oil (designed for a wet clutch and transmission application) when the Ryker requires neither of these? Why not use an automotive oil which has friction modifiers helpful to engine components, thus optimizing the oil for the application?

Hey BajaRon, help me out brother, did you come up with an automotive oil to use in our Rykers? I’ve been a good old man and have waited patiently! cueman

[Sarge707]

I'm using Valvoline 5w40 Synthetic MST used in high end sports cars and diesels. Runs great in my 900 Jetski?
About 6.75 per quart at Walmart

[BajaRon]

Hey BajaRon, help me out brother, did you come up with an automotive oil to use in our Rykers? I’ve been a good old man and have waited patiently! cueman

I am not recommending anything yet because I have not personally run it or tested it. But frankly, I cannot see where it's going to be a big deal to run engine oil in an engine. I like Amsoil because it does what it says it does and I've yet to see an oil test out, apples to apples, better than Amsoil. So I've decided to go with Amsoil's XL, 10w-40 which I feel is a better viscosity fit for the Spyder/Ryker anyway. Amsoil also has an even higher quality lubricant, 0w-40, which is tempting. I may try that and see how it fares against the 10w-40 on the next go-around. I am certain that either one will far exceed any requirements that BRP has.

It will run about $8.75 per quart. Who knows! I might even be able to get better fuel mileage with it!

I know some feel Amsoil is overkill for the Spyder/Ryker. And I can't necessarily argue with that. It's all a matter of perspective. I plan to switch out to all Amsoil lubricants eventually.

XLO.jpg

Here is some of the description for the XL oil.

AMSOIL XL Synthetic Motor Oil is the choice for those who want to do something extra for their vehicle. Its boosted formulation delivers extra cleaning power, outstanding wear control, excellent high- and low-temperature protection and exceptional fuel economy. XL is engineered for advanced automotive technology, including turbos and direct injection. It is packed with extra engine protection, allowing you to go up to12,000-miles or one year, whichever comes first, between oil changes. XL Synthetic Motor Oil maintains its fluidity (viscosity) under the most extreme conditions. Some oils break down and significantly increase in viscosity after extended periods of high-temperature operation. These changes can cause excessive oil consumption, engine deposits, accelerated wear and difficult cold-starts. The GM Oxidation and Deposit (GMOD) Test consists of a 5.7L V8 engine running at 293ºF (100º hotter than normal) for 100 hours. These severe operating conditions test an oils ability to control viscosity increase, deposits and oil consumption. The testing revealed that AMSOIL XL Synthetic Motor Oil provides 64 percent more protection against oil breakdown than required by the GM dexos1® Gen 2 specification, ensuring protection in extreme temperatures.

[Easy Rider]

when the Ryker requires neither of these? Why not use an automotive oil which has friction modifiers helpful to engine components, thus optimizing the oil for the application?

Oops. Sorry.
Missed that key word RYKER again.

You are right, of course.

[BajaRon]

Oops. Sorry.
Missed that key word RYKER again.

You are right, of course.

Yes... You DO NOT want to apply any of this information to a Spyder with both wet clutch and transmission lubrication needs. Using an automotive, engine only oil in a Spyder would be very bad indeed!

I have not checked all of the lubricants that BRP offers. But I'm thinking they are recommending what they have (for the Ryker anyway) rather than what might be best. i am not saying that the BRP lubricants recommended for the Ryker are not adequate. I'm just always looking for a better mouse trap! For this, I will ask forgiveness.

[jcthorne]

From my owners manual:

Owner's manual calls for API SL, SJ, SH and SG. To avoid damaging the clutch, do not use >API SM or IL SACGF-4 classification. Clutch slippage will occur.

Rotella T6 is rated API SN, SM

That's the best information I have.

BRP rescinded that requirement and now requires JASO MA2 for wet clutch. BRPs own XPS oil now has an SN rating.

[KC61]

But the Ryker doesn't have a clutch nor is it wet so why do we care about wet clutch applications on the Ryker forum?

[Jeriatric]

BRP rescinded that requirement and now requires JASO MA2 for wet clutch. BRPs own XPS oil now has an SN rating.

Interesting. Is the recision statement readily available?