• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

What Brand or Type of Oil Should I Use in my Ryker??? Must it be safe for wet-clutch?

when the Ryker requires neither of these? Why not use an automotive oil which has friction modifiers helpful to engine components, thus optimizing the oil for the application?

Oops. Sorry.
Missed that key word RYKER again.

You are right, of course.
 
Oops. Sorry.
Missed that key word RYKER again.

You are right, of course.

Yes... You DO NOT want to apply any of this information to a Spyder with both wet clutch and transmission lubrication needs. Using an automotive, engine only oil in a Spyder would be very bad indeed!

I have not checked all of the lubricants that BRP offers. But I'm thinking they are recommending what they have (for the Ryker anyway) rather than what might be best. i am not saying that the BRP lubricants recommended for the Ryker are not adequate. I'm just always looking for a better mouse trap! For this, I will ask forgiveness. :rolleyes:
 
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From my owners manual:

Owner's manual calls for API SL, SJ, SH and SG. To avoid damaging the clutch, do not use >API SM or IL SACGF-4 classification. Clutch slippage will occur.

Rotella T6 is rated API SN, SM

That's the best information I have.

BRP rescinded that requirement and now requires JASO MA2 for wet clutch. BRPs own XPS oil now has an SN rating.
 
But the Ryker doesn't have a clutch nor is it wet so why do we care about wet clutch applications on the Ryker forum?
 
Interesting. Is the rescission statement readily available?

The oil they ship in the kits is now SN rated. The question came up before when the changed ratings were noticed and someone wrote to brp-cares and posted the response. If you really want an 'its ok, use it' statement from BRP suggest writing to them. FYI, the Lamonster Garage oil is also SN rated. Its getting pretty hard to find one that is not. Valvoline 4T was one of the last I knew of and its getting hard to find since Walmart quit stocking it in stores.
 
The oil they ship in the kits is now SN rated. The question came up before when the changed ratings were noticed and someone wrote to brp-cares and posted the response. If you really want an 'its ok, use it' statement from BRP suggest writing to them. FYI, the Lamonster Garage oil is also SN rated. Its getting pretty hard to find one that is not. Valvoline 4T was one of the last I knew of and its getting hard to find since Walmart quit stocking it in stores.

Nah, I'm good, am very happy with the oil currently being used in the Spyder. Thanks for the info.
 
But the Ryker doesn't have a clutch nor is it wet so why do we care about wet clutch applications on the Ryker forum?

The reason is that BRP recommends a wet clutch rated oil for the Ryker. But I think this is more a case of sell what you have than recommend what might be best. Just speculation. But it is a valid question. What other non-wet clutch, integrated transmission vehicle recommends a wet clutch lubricant? I do not know of any. There is no advantage to using a wet clutch oil in a non-wet clutch application. Actually, compromises are made in the lubricant properties to achieve wet clutch comparability. So why not ditch the disadvantages if you don't need the compromise?
 
The reason is that BRP recommends a wet clutch rated oil for the Ryker. But I think this is more a case of sell what you have than recommend what might be best. Just speculation. But it is a valid question. What other non-wet clutch, integrated transmission vehicle recommends a wet clutch lubricant? I do not know of any. There is no advantage to using a wet clutch oil in a non-wet clutch application. Actually, compromises are made in the lubricant properties to achieve wet clutch comparability. So why not ditch the disadvantages if you don't need the compromise?

:agree::agree: ….. A new oil is just More a dealer has to stock ….. and they might have to drop the price - ain't gonna happen :roflblack:... Mike
 
I really like the Rotella 5-40. BUT! Dealer will only use BRP oil and filter. :yikes: Tom :spyder:

Not correct. Doesn't apply to all dealers. Speaking in general terms like that isn't a good idea. Ask the dealer. My dealer will install whatever oil I bring to him then just charge labor cost.
 
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Do you ever long for the days when you just grabbed a can of green or red top Quaker State and dumped it in? :gaah:
 
No, but I miss .10c island oil. I you remember when?

In my Ohio town when I was a kinda new driver, I remember what we called bulk oil. It was by the gas pumps and in a glass quart jar with a tin spout for 17 cents a bottle. :yikes: cueman
 
In my Ohio town when I was a kinda new driver, I remember what we called bulk oil. It was by the gas pumps and in a glass quart jar with a tin spout for 17 cents a bottle. :yikes: cueman

Re-refined - they called it.

My how times have changed.
 
No, but I miss .10c island oil. I you remember when?

In my Ohio town when I was a kinda new driver, I remember what we called bulk oil. It was by the gas pumps and in a glass quart jar with a tin spout for 17 cents a bottle. :yikes: cueman

Yup, one of my very first jobs - filling those glass bottles with oil, keeping the island rack topped up & clean, and offering to check the oil & water & washing the windscreen on every customer's car! I musta done a good job at all that, cos I skipped the usual 'service station career & promotion path', jumping right over sweeping the workshop floor & going straight to helping our 'qualified mechanic' work on cars & learning all I could about spanner spinning on the job! :ohyea:
 
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I know this is an old thread; but has anyone actually been running conventional oil in their Ryker for an extended period? I really can't see any reason that you would have to run a motorcycle specific oil in the Ryker, with its lack of a wet clutch.
 
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I know this is an old thread; but has anyone actually been running conventional oil in their Ryker for an extended period? I really can't see any reason that you would have to run a motorcycle specific oil in the Ryker, with its lack of a wet clutch.
What did your owner's manual say? That's what I would base my judgment on, but I would use a good oil in it no matter what!
 
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The Ryker calls for the same spec oil as the 1330cc Spyder. Why not a synthetic? Easier starting and superior lubrication. Oil is cheap...
 
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I know this is an old thread; but has anyone actually been running conventional oil in their Ryker for an extended period? I really can't see any reason that you would have to run a motorcycle specific oil in the Ryker, with its lack of a wet clutch.

The answer is Yes. There is no reason to run a wet clutch oil in a Ryker any more than running a wet clutch oil in your car. It's just another case of selling what you have instead of what works best. We run 10/40 full synthetic Amsoil (gasoline car oil) in our Ryker and offer it to our customers as an option. Many of our customers take this option. A non-Wet Clutch oil is not only less expensive, but has superior lubrication properties at the same time. The more things you ask an oil to do, the less good it is at any single job. Give the oil engineers a single task and they can create a lubricant targeted at that one requirement.

A wet clutch oil has to avoid being too slippery or lubricating too well, otherwise, the clutch will slip. Hence, the all important JASO rating. The whole idea of a wet clutch oil is to provide adequate lubrication while allowing enough friction so the clutch can fully engage. The exact opposite of what every other engine component is looking for.

Using a superior lubricant cannot void or affect a warranty. What are they going to say? The oil was too good at protecting your engine and caused a failure? There is no way they can make a case that a wet clutch oil is necessary for a machine that does not have a wet clutch.

I've always felt it a shame that unnecessary warranty worries keep so many from doing what is best for their machine.
 
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