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  1. #1
    Member BearX16's Avatar
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    Default Newbie Questions

    Trailering: Tie down with Spyder in N and Parking Brake on

    Down shifting: Do’ and Don’t thread says “experts and professionals” downshift. How is downshifting done, same shift points as upshifting or by feel when more rpms are needed to keep from lugging. Thread also that said getting into first may be problematic when in an emergency stop.

    That’s it for now.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    You don't say what model Spyder you have and whether it's an SE or SM. You can downshift anytime you want. If it's an SM just blip the throttle with the clutch in to smooth the downshift. If it's an SE just downshift whenever you want, assuming you're not pulling some kind of hooligan stunt just to prove you can do it. I forgot at what RPM mine automatically downshifts.
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  3. #3
    Member BearX16's Avatar
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    2014 RT S SE 6

    I guess getting on an going will cause me to learn how to do it.

  4. #4
    Active Member Airborne's Avatar
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    New to Syders myself but in 3000km i just let my Semi-Auto downshift itself. Very smooth no lugging!

  5. #5
    Active Member Raprider's Avatar
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    If I'm coming from any speed to stop, I'll typically let the SE downshift itself.
    I selectively downshift more often when I know I'm going to want the extra rpm's for the next curve or hill...so, if I'm slowing down from say 50 mph to 30 mph, I'll drop it from 3rd to 2nd. If just straight cruising though, slowing from 60 to 40 and back to 50, probably keep it in 4th.
    With experience, I've gotten more used to staying in the 998's power band in the 4500-6500 rpm range.
    YMMV on the 1330.
    Raprider (Rich)

    2016 Can-Am Spyder ST-S SE5 Steel Black Metallic (Blackbird)
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    1996 Yamaha Virago 750 (Vera) - still riding
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  6. #6
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Airborne View Post
    New to Syders myself but in 3000km i just let my Semi-Auto downshift itself. Very smooth no lugging!
    , this is the way I do it ….. Along time ago I was given wise advice, " if you use the transmission as a Brake you will wear out the trans and clutch parts a lot sooner than if you don't " …… Brake pads are cheap compared to trans and clutches …… The only time I use manual downshifting is in the TWISTIE's when I'm driving very fast …. I need to be in the POWER BAND when exiting a tight turn ….. other wise I let the computer do the shifting ……I have heard from many people that the Trans/ clutches are designed for the stress of Braking ….. Show me any owners manual where the manufacturer recommends doing this Mike

  7. #7
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    I agree with Mike to a point, particularly in the mountains and twisties and, yes, we first heard that brake pads were cheaper than clutches and transmissions but for a great many of us that was back in the same days when there were s**t motor oils and good oils. Unless one is racing and really flogging a clutch and gearbox, how many folks to we hear about these days who are toasting them. As far as motorcycles as vehicles are concerned, more people probably wreck them crashing than wear out clutches and transmissions.
    Artillery lends dignity to what would
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  8. #8
    Active Member bushrat's Avatar
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    I'm going to differ somewhat, possibly offer another perspective. Simply my personal view, although I do respect those who say "let the machine do the work (or gear selection) automatically". My Spyder is a 2017 F3L SE, so same Rotax 1330 engine and tranny for the most part. My bike typically will auto-downshift by itself when my tach drops to 1800 rpm. I assume this suggests that the BRP engineers have calculated/decided 1800 rpm is the "lug limit" below which they feel the engine is laboring too hard to remain in whatever gear it happens to be. Personally, at that level, I feel that I'm riding below the 'power band' in which my instincts tell me I'm more comfortable; I do like to feel that I have a 'moderately working' power plant beneath me, with which I can quickly react to any situation. After I became comfortable and better acquainted with my Spyder, I seemed to feel that I didn't really like to ride it in any gear at less than 2200 rpm, and really liked it more when it was kept at 2500/2700 rpms. So, I began downshifting and engine braking somewhat in advance of what the machine normally does by itself. I tend to manually 'finger it' down through the gears when approaching stop lights/stop signs and/or reduced speed zones. However, I typically only do so down as far as 3rd gear; rarely do I manually downshift as far as second, and always let the machine make the shift into first - I concede it's simply better at selecting the lower gears, while I like the feel of choosing the moment when I drop down from the higher gears. I do appreciate the 'old time' warnings about wearing out costly clutches in place of cheaper brake pads - drove many manual shift sports cars in my youth, where downshifting was pretty much standard practice. Anyway, that's my preferred way, and if it costs me, well, that's life. I'm a committed downshifter/engine-braker. On the other hand, I try not to abuse my ride. I don't do burn-outs; I don't do jackrabbit starts; I don't wind out/red line my revs before upshifting; I've never yet been at full throttle in any gear. I'm upshifting usually somewhere between 3000 to 4500 rpm, often comfortably in between. My ride is just nicely getting broken in, with about 13,000 miles/20,000 km on it; so far, so good. Hope it stays that way. However one chooses to ride, it should feel comfortable and be fun.
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  9. #9
    Active Member Wahrsuul's Avatar
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    Haven't put but 100 miles on mine so far, but when coming to a stop I let it do the down shifting. I only manually shift when I want/need the power. I've wound it hard a few times, never quite to red line, just to get a feel for it. In normal riding, I'm usually at or below 3k.

    So far I'm well pleased with the performance of this thing. Way more power and far smoother that I thought a triple would be. My Valk was smooth too, but this seems just as good.

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