metman
New member
I'm trying to install the "H8 Xtreme Digital HID Conversion Kit" for the fog lights from KBcarstuff on my 2012 RT-S. Naturally I can't find the old posts now, but it seems like I have read that some guys have said that the HID's will draw less current than the stock OEM Halogen bulb. And it seems like I've also read where the isolated 12 vdc supply harness and relay, as supplied in the kit, needs to be used to prevent Nanny issues.
While playing around with one of the fog light housings removed from the Spyder and a 12 volt power supply, I measured current draw with the OEM Halogen at 2.7 amps. Then I hooked up the HID and current draw was 4.6 amps, or about 2 amps more. I'd like to think that the stock fog light wiring and switch could handle the additional 2 to 4 amp current draw, but..... And I'm having a hard time understanding that the isolated 12 vdc harness needs a 30 amp fuse, but then it's not hurting anything either.
The ballast will not be attached to or even close to the steel frame, so maybe no Nanny issues?
Without the isolated wiring harness and relay, the installation seems to be "plug and play". But to me it looks like I'll have to change some connectors or do some cutting and splicing of wires to use the harness and relay kit.
So do I need the harness and relay, and if so how do I wire it up?
I'll discuss this same info with the folks at XenonDepot and see what they say.
Any input will be appreciated. PM's or phone calls.
Mike in KY
270-404-0511
While playing around with one of the fog light housings removed from the Spyder and a 12 volt power supply, I measured current draw with the OEM Halogen at 2.7 amps. Then I hooked up the HID and current draw was 4.6 amps, or about 2 amps more. I'd like to think that the stock fog light wiring and switch could handle the additional 2 to 4 amp current draw, but..... And I'm having a hard time understanding that the isolated 12 vdc harness needs a 30 amp fuse, but then it's not hurting anything either.
The ballast will not be attached to or even close to the steel frame, so maybe no Nanny issues?
Without the isolated wiring harness and relay, the installation seems to be "plug and play". But to me it looks like I'll have to change some connectors or do some cutting and splicing of wires to use the harness and relay kit.
So do I need the harness and relay, and if so how do I wire it up?
I'll discuss this same info with the folks at XenonDepot and see what they say.
Any input will be appreciated. PM's or phone calls.
Mike in KY
270-404-0511