Won't Run, check engine light won't clear

[1VENOM]

Alright, I've installed iridium plugs and new wires, BajaRon's, replaced the fuel filter, replaced the exhaust with the Can-Am by Hindle, wrapped the exhaust system with Titanium exhaust wrap. Battery is fully charged. Fuel is new with Sea foam additive. Air filter is a Green re-useable from ESI. Turn key and clear the initial star-up screen. The engine check light will not clear. Press the engine start button, limp mode scrolls across the screen, only the rear cylinder is firing, I know this because the exhaust pipe is warm. Front pipe is cold. Engine runs for about 5 seconds then shuts down. I have rechecked every electrical plug in the engine compartment, to verify they are connected. I'm at a loss. I do not know how to check for fault codes. I know it may seem odd, but have never had a problem with my 2008 RS, I have 19,000 miles on her and now, This! I threw the old plugs and wires away. I hope you techs can suggest what my next step should be. I'd also like to know how to check codes, as well.:banghead::banghead::yikes: Thanks for any help:bowdown:

 

[1VENOM]

No back fire, no gas smell.

 

[Jeriatric]

Pull the plug on the dead cylinder and see if it's firing. If not. Trouble shoot from that point back.

 

[1VENOM]

Pulled plug and it's dry. I'll check the injector, but why would the engine check light come on before turning the engine over?

 

[NancysToy]

Check your plug wire connections again, very carefully...especially the terminal position in the boots at both ends. Also check to see if you accidentally knocked off a vacuum hose. Look for other disconnected wire or connectors. I doubt you will get a meaningful fault code...probably just an artifact. For the RS, turn the key on or have the engine running, scroll to total hours, while pressing MODE, press the Flash High Beams button rapidly, five times within 2 seconds. Active fault codes will show on the screen. Whenever you have a problem after doing some work, retrace your steps. I suspect that you caused your own misery.

 

[steve0530]

If all was O.K. Befor you started the work then it usually is one of the last things you did. You gapped the plugs? Check to see if you have spark at the plugs. Remove the plug from the cold cylinder, attach the plug wire to it and ground the plug on the side of the block or cylinder and crank it over, you should get a spark at the plug. You can get a bad wire out of the box, but would need an ohm meter to test that.
If you still have your owners manual, that should give you the proper instructions on the code issue.

 

[1VENOM]

Most likely caused my own problem. Plug wires are tight, vacuum lines all good.

 

[Tierhog]

Brainstorming.... Don't flame me. Ignition coil, spark plugs, or wires. The spark plug test will tell a lot. Ron's plugs are gapped already...or at least mine were.

 

[1VENOM]

Pulled the front cylinder plug and connected it to the wire, placed it against the block, cranked it over, saw a strong spark. I'm not sure if I want to pull the fuel rail. Bike ran before the plug, and wires were replaced.:banghead: Cannot get fault codes, because the engine won't run long enough to check them.

 

[1VENOM]

Pretty sure there Roger. Seems very tight.

 

[Jeriatric]

Check 'fuse' for injector.

It's unclear whether there's one fuse for both banks or if they are sepearte fuses.

 

[1VENOM]

Jerbear Ok, I checked F8 fuse, checks out.

 

[Jeriatric]

Jerbear Ok, I checked F8 fuse, checks out.

All that's left is checking relays. Other than the list of things Scotty offered. Check the vacuum hoses closely. They or one could be cracked on the back side, and if so. Replacement length is critical. If you find one of them bad I'll get the correct length for you.


85mm / 4.33 inches - correct length of each.

 

[1VENOM]

Did you pull the connector off the FI and reseat it?

If you have an ohm meter you can check between the pins on the injector it should be about 12 ohms.

My bet though is that it is a connector somewhere.

Roger, I'm reading 15.2ohms. FI is re-seated.

 

[1VENOM]

If you pull the connector off again ...
With the key ON you should read battery voltage on the connector.

Roger, 11.85 volts

 

[1VENOM]

I go to work in four hours, I need to shut down for the night. I'm driving tractor trailer. Thank you all for the help you have provided so far.:thumbup:

 

[JCSMOKE]

Ok so here is what I would do, and you would like it as much as I would. undo what you did and put the old stuff back on, see if you are back to running, then change things one at a time and keep checking for if you are running along the way. I know it isn't much help but you may find the problem.

 

[1VENOM]

Well, the white flag of surrender is flying over my spyder. I have checked everything that has been suggested here. I pulled the fuel injectors today to see if, they were swopped, the problem would follow, but it did not. Re-installed the old plugs, that didn't work either. I have contacted the local shop. They inform me it will be at least a week before they can look at it. So off to the shop she goes.:banghead::banghead::banghead: ray:ray:ray:

 

[napper39]

i would still put new relays in there cheap at the auto shops i bought 6 when i frist got my spyder and still got them they stay in my spyder just in case.they do go bad some times.:chat:

 

[1VENOM]

Waving the flag of Victory

Well, as I said in my last post, I thought I had to surrender. Had Venom delivered to the shop, they told me it would be at least a week before they could get to her. Then by the time I got home there was a message on my phone, saying that the manager had told them to just plug it into "BUDS", The ECM had to be reset and she is purrrrrrrrring. Come and get her, total cost, $89.00, for the diagnostics. :yes::yes::yes::yes::yes::yes: Once again I want to thank everyone who made suggestion, and took the time to look at my post. Sincerely a very happy man. 1Venom (Rod) ALLOUT Cycles in Chesapeake, VA, rocks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::clap::clap::clap: