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Won’t go in reverse or manually downshift

dg110270

New member
2019 RT SE6. Oil level is ok. Checked it per label by dip stick after a 100 mile ride, motor idled till fans came on then off twice, Checked dip stick within 2 minutes. Problem is that trike won’t go into reverse. Stuck in first gear. Shut motor off and pushed into parking slot. Bike set for about 2 hours then started and worked okay rest of day. The problem came back a few times. Next symptom was the trike would not manually downshift near the end of a 35 mile run. It would automatically downshift but not with lever on handlebar. Could not get in neutral when stopped or reverse. Gas the trike up and turned trike on and it shifted automatically to neutral then I put it in first okay. No codes listed in settings menu. I’m still 2 years on original battery at 23,000 miles. What do I check other than the oil which is new? Help please.
 
I can't help you, sorry to say. But I'm having the exact same problem on my 2018 Spyder RT Limited. Will not shift into Reverse nor will it manually down shift. It down shifts fine automatically, but I have to shut the bike down and then restart to get it into neutral. It's embarrassing to need my wife to push me out of our parking space enough so I can shift into 1st and drive away. Not to mention having to find places where I don't have to back into or out of.

I'm not finding any codes when I check on my gauge cluster. I have an appointment for this Tuesday (19th) to bring it into the dealership to have it check out.
 
I would guess it's an issue with the switch itself, since it downshifts automatically as designed...
 
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It is possible that the problem is with the reverse lockout switch. If you look on the left side of your Spyder you will see the switch that hangs down at an angle. You might have to remove a panel to see it. I have an F3 and mine is easy to see. It has been replaced twice.
 
It’s a shame these trikes are so full of faults. If they could get them to run like a Honda it would be wonderful. Could you please let me know what the dealer finds?
 
Update on my Reverse gear problems. As I stated earlier, my RT would not shift into Reverse. I noticed it shortly after I brought the bike that it would occasionally be difficult to get into Reverse. Sometimes it would take 3-4 tries. Soon it would not go at all. In addition, when the bike was in 1st gear, pressing the minus paddle would not shift the bike into Neutral. Finally, though the bike would down shift fine, automatically, I could not down shift manually. So I took it into the shop yesterday (10/19). Got a call from the Tech this morning.

Bad news: As was predicted by a number of folks here, the problem was traced to a faulty left hand control module. As expected, the Tech told me they had to order a new one from BRP and it could take 8-10 business days to ship. He said it could maybe ship sooner, but he had no way to be sure.

Good news: The Tech said he spoke to the warranty company (Zurich) and the issue is covered by my warranty. That being the case, the Tech said my out of pocket cost, including tax, would run fifty four bucks and change. That's a cost I can happily live with.

Now I'm just hoping it doesn't snow before my bike is ready. The dealership is 75 miles away and I don't own a trailer. I have no problem riding in the cold, but snow? Not my first choice. :)
 
Glad to hear you have a handle on your problem.
I hope its covered under warranty and you don't have to pay too much to fix this problem.
Here is my story about shifting into reverse.

I had the same thing, sometimes would not shift in to reverse.
I have a 2018 spyder RT SE with 18,000 miles that I put on it.
Mine started a 3-4 weeks ago, and got worse.

Today, after reading the forum here, I decided to take the LH handle bar cluster apart.
I found the paddle shifter switch, and removed the shifter handle, and noticed a rubber enclosed switch, one side for forward, and one for reverse. i could push the button with my finger and it worked.
The button was fine and the switch body was fine.
There must not have been enough push distance to get the contacts to close.
Easy fix for me, so far, just installed a thin shim between the switch button and the steel actuator pin.

From reading all the posts about this problem, This may or may not be a simple fix for this problem.
Thank you.
 
Darn it. I got a call from the dealership today. The Tech told me he got a shipping notice on the left hand control module, but it looked like it would not get here until sometime in Dec.

I asked him why it was going to take so long, and he told me it was probably connected with the global supply chain issues currently affecting everything else. He said mechanical parts were pretty much available, but electronics and sensors are coming out of Asia so they are in serious high demand. Think computer chips.

He told me I could come and pick up the bike and when the part arrived I could come back for the install. He did point out intermittent problems like mine never get better on their own. They either maintain the status quo or get worse. His other suggestion was to leave it with them and when the part arrived he would get back to me and see where to go from there.

My concern was if I picked up the bike, I could be out on a ride somewhere in the boonies when problem got worse and perhaps the bike would not shift at all. In which case I would be in a worse situation then I am now. On the other hand, right now the bike was where it needed to be under the circumstances. The Tech assured me there would be no storage fee for them keeping it. So all things considered, I decided to take a gamble and leave it with them.

Hopefully there won’t be six feet of snow on the ground when it’s finally ready. I have no problem riding in the cold, you can dress for that. But riding in the cold and snow is, in my opinion, a recipe for disaster. So now we wait.
 
Switch, wiring, or connector to the left control. If not for the warranty risk, I'd try a shot of contact cleaner on the switch and connectors.
 
Glad to hear you have a handle on your problem.
I hope its covered under warranty and you don't have to pay too much to fix this problem.
Here is my story about shifting into reverse.

I had the same thing, sometimes would not shift in to reverse.
I have a 2018 spyder RT SE with 18,000 miles that I put on it.
Mine started a 3-4 weeks ago, and got worse.

Today, after reading the forum here, I decided to take the LH handle bar cluster apart.
I found the paddle shifter switch, and removed the shifter handle, and noticed a rubber enclosed switch, one side for forward, and one for reverse. i could push the button with my finger and it worked.
The button was fine and the switch body was fine.
There must not have been enough push distance to get the contacts to close.
Easy fix for me, so far, just installed a thin shim between the switch button and the steel actuator pin.

From reading all the posts about this problem, This may or may not be a simple fix for this problem.
Thank you.

That's exactly what I would have done. Good for you.
 
GKAMER
Did the dealer say the module was bad or the switch?

Looking at the switch configuration, on mine, there were no worn or broken parts, and really no internal parts to change since there were no worn parts.
So the dealer would need to change the whole LH cluster.
Just a thought for you, maybe yo can shim under the switch?

Switch, wiring, or connector to the left control. If not for the warranty risk, I'd try a shot of contact cleaner on the switch and connectors.

That may work on the old-style switch, but this is a sealed bubble style switch. There's no way to clean the switch contacts.
 
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Hi Greg. If the part that was replaced is under warranty why did you have to pay $54. I’m trying to understand the Can Am service experience.
 
Hi Greg. If the part that was replaced is under warranty why did you have to pay $54. I’m trying to understand the Can Am service experience.

My Spyder was already out of the BRP warranty when I purchased it, so it did not qualify for the BRP BEST extended warranty. My only option was either no warranty or go with the two year Zurich warranty, which I opted for. It has a $50.00 deductible which including tax came to fifty four bucks and change.
 
Glad to hear you have a handle on your problem.
I hope its covered under warranty and you don't have to pay too much to fix this problem.
Here is my story about shifting into reverse.

I had the same thing, sometimes would not shift in to reverse.
I have a 2018 spyder RT SE with 18,000 miles that I put on it.
Mine started a 3-4 weeks ago, and got worse.

Today, after reading the forum here, I decided to take the LH handle bar cluster apart.
I found the paddle shifter switch, and removed the shifter handle, and noticed a rubber enclosed switch, one side for forward, and one for reverse. i could push the button with my finger and it worked.
The button was fine and the switch body was fine.
There must not have been enough push distance to get the contacts to close.
Easy fix for me, so far, just installed a thin shim between the switch button and the steel actuator pin.

From reading all the posts about this problem, This may or may not be a simple fix for this problem.
Thank you.

Did you happen to take pictures of where you put the shim or can you tell me in more detail. I would like to try this. It sounds like that part is going to be hard to get at the dealer and they will keep the trike to long.
 
My 2020 F3L stopped manual down shifting and the cause was proven to be the left hand switch cluster. BRP's letter stated that there were no replacements available 'in the world'. My replacement took about 6 monhs to arrive. My response was 'unbelievable' when I read the letter. A number of causes of such a shortage of back up parts can be put down to a few possibilities, maybe even the international power maneouverings of China. Whatever! it was a poor show from BRP. All covered by warranty, thankfully.
 
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Hmmmm! I think I have put my comment in the wrong group. RT instead of F3. My apologies.
 
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Did you happen to take pictures of where you put the shim or can you tell me in more detail. I would like to try this. It sounds like that part is going to be hard to get at the dealer and they will keep the trike to long.

Thank you for the inquiry.
Sorry I did not take any pictures. But should be able to tell you where I put the shim.
Just a note, the shim I used was only .021" thick, and .130" in diameter.
It may not be the best option, since the metal push pin has a dome surface.
The other option I was thinking about was to make a new metal push pin that was a little longer.
The paddle shifter mount is held to the main body with 3 socket head screws.
When you remove the screws, you can remove the paddle shifter rocker assembly.
Under that you will see the two sealed bubble switches, one for reverse, and one for forward.
The bubble switches will have a rubber shaft sticking up.
That rubber shaft will touch the metal pin that is pushed by the paddle shifter rocker body.
I put the shim between the metal push pin and the rubber pin on the switch.
The shim is caged in the body, so it should not move out of the switch contact area.
When you take it apart, you will notice that there is no adjustment for this switch.
I can't believe that there are any serviceable parts here.
As I said in my post, there was no wear or broken parts.
When the parts were designed and made, I think they did not put enough push distance for the pin to push the switch.
Hope that helps.
 
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