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Wiring in extra Gadgets on a 2017 RT Ltd

askitee

Member
Santa was kind enough to bring me a Motorcycle dual camera kit (crash cam)

Mounting has been easy, as has running cables, but I was wondering about the electrical.

My spyder is an RTL 2017 model, and I had the dealership wire in two Baja Design S2 Pro lights (to supplement High beam) a while back, so some of the hard yards are done. The aim was tap into the "ignition Signal" used for the driving lights + another relay and ride off into the sunset.

My Pondering - after I add a 2nd relay for the crash cam will I overload the Ignition signal to the two relays,
Example : does it only provide say 1W of power to activate one relay, and adding a second would be a load of 2W causing it to overload it (and possibly causing the CANBUS to begin a campaign of hatred against me)?

I understand the load created by the gadgets are supplied via the battery courtesy of the relays, but don't have enough knowledge about the limits of the "signal" from the Ignition circuit used for the lights.

I drew these 3 drawings to try to explain that which I don't have the terminology for.
Existing - what has been installed by the dealership for the lights.
Intended Install - is just tapping into the "signal" from the ignition to source that "signal" for the 2nd relay
Or Should I - add a relay that maintains the existing draw on the ignition circuit, and allows a 3rd relays to be added for the crash cam.
Existing.jpgPlan A.jpgPlan B.jpg

So,
  • Is the dwg titled "Intended install" OK?
  • Or is dwg titled "Or Should I" the required method?
  • Or am I over thinking it?
 
Being a simple guy, I think simple solutions. I installed a fuse block just above the battery. It is fed via a relay that is energized only when the ignition is on. I have connected all my add-on electrical accessories to the fuse block, giving each one its own properly sized fuse.
 
Being a simple guy, I think simple solutions. I installed a fuse block just above the battery. It is fed via a relay that is energized only when the ignition is on. I have connected all my add-on electrical accessories to the fuse block, giving each one its own properly sized fuse.

Great minds think alike :)
 
I did the same thing you are doing. In the right fuse box, you'll see that the F8 position is unused. (And marked as such in the wiring diagram). However, the upper contact is there and provides power only when the engine is running through the load shedding relay. I used an "Add-A-Circuit" in this position to provide for my dashcam. If you place a previously blown fuse in the original side of the Add-a-Circuit, it will prevent a live circuit on the lower leg where it protrudes into the empty F8 lower cavity as a safety measure. Drilling a small hole in the Right Fuse Box cover will allow for the Add-A-Circuit wire to get outside of the cover. I placed a disconnect to my dashcam supply there to make it easier to access the fuse box in the future.
 
I did the same thing you are doing. In the right fuse box, you'll see that the F8 position is unused. (And marked as ............access the fuse box in the future.

You've implemented some of the things I am considering.
I did want it easy for the BRP techs to be able to unplug bits and pieces when they have to work on the RTL, and used waterproof connectors to join long wires for power to the camera master unit.

I looked at the unused sockets in the fuse boxes, but couldn't fathom a way to run a wire from the socket to outside the fuse box while ensuring it had a waterproof seal, so opted for a 3rd party 4 slot Fuse box connected back to the battery.

I did find two slots in the fuse box for the "Lighter socket" in the rear top-box - one for "always live" and the other "Live with accessories on"

In the end I did this
w-Fuse box.jpg
 
That is exactly what I did. It offers great peace of mind knowing you're not upsetting the bike's fussy electronics.
 
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