I am in the process of adding a USB connection to my 2015 rt. I purchased the unit that sits in the middle of the switch bank under the handle bars and now starting to work out how I am going to get power to it. Most of the fuse banks I have found have only a positive connection so I would need to find a seperate ground somewhere. My question is do you usually run a ground back to the battery or do you ground to the frame somewhere? If you ground to the frame, where do you do it?
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wiring a USB to 2015RT - Where do you ground it?!
- Thread starter iwillplay
- Start date
RayBJ
Well-known member
There is no better place to grab 12v and ground than directly to the battery. Anywhere else runs the risk of overcurrent or intermittent opens. Best to run your fuse block thru a key-on relay to the battery. Look for a fuse block like the FZ-1 with ground connections as well as 12v. It includes a key-on and always-on option for each assy.
thereverend
Member
I ran back to the battery
RayBJ
Well-known member
I just installed a UCB connector as you described. I did it two days ago. I have no idea which connector you purchased but mine came with a two-wire lead and a fuse in the positive lead. The wire was just long enough to reach the right gage up next to the dashboard. I connected both the positive and negative leads to that gauge's leads. So far the USB connector works fine. The only difference I've noticed is when I shut off the spyder and remove the key, the USB and main dash screen remain on for about 3/5 seconds and then turn off. Before when I turned off the spyder and removed the key, everything turned off at the same time. Now, when they turn off in 3/5 seconds I can hear a slight noise coming from somewhere behind the dash panel as everything shuts off. If anyone knows why this happens please respond.
Rednaxs60
New member
I like the Fuzeblock FZ-1 for the compact size - great for limited space installations, the integral relay for switched/unswitched circuits and both power and ground bus. Have used the Eastern Beaver PC-8, and the inexpensive aftermarket combined power/ground bus fuse blocks that can be found on Amazon but need an external relay if you want the circuits powered down when key is off. I submit that using a separate accessory fuse block for all non-OEM additions is good practice because you can isolate what you have done from the OEM when issues come up. Caveat is that if there is a purpose built OEM connection for an item, then use it. You can use the FZ-1 for the battery tender connection as well, make one of the circuits unswitched.
Do a search on what I did. I pulled the covers off for the limited would have a temperature gauge and then oil pressure gauge and found a perfect wiring harness. I can’t remember the colors and so forth so do the search and it was very easy to install the device, Along with getting a constant battery reading.
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