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Windshield Arm Broken
- Thread starter ThreeWheels
- Start date
finless
New member
Let me know if you want a crash test dummy for install and testing. I will even video it!
Put me on the list for one please.
Bob
jpbuch9309
New member
broken windsheild bracket
Check your windshield brackets often:
They have been known to fail occasionally. The consensus is if you run with your shield "full-down" most of the time, it will cause undue stress on the middle bracket, which raises and lowers the shield. Move the shield up slightly off the metal-stop to avoid the potential damage. Keep in mind you cannot replace just the bracket. The entire lift-mechanism has to be replaced to the tune of around $600.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?41346-quot-Do-s-and-Do-Nots-quot-for-new-Spyder-owners
Check your windshield brackets often:
They have been known to fail occasionally. The consensus is if you run with your shield "full-down" most of the time, it will cause undue stress on the middle bracket, which raises and lowers the shield. Move the shield up slightly off the metal-stop to avoid the potential damage. Keep in mind you cannot replace just the bracket. The entire lift-mechanism has to be replaced to the tune of around $600.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?41346-quot-Do-s-and-Do-Nots-quot-for-new-Spyder-owners
jpbuch9309
New member
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...t-Do-s-and-Do-Nots-quot-for-new-Spyder-owners
Check your windshield brackets often:
They have been known to fail occasionally. The consensus is if you run with your shield "full-down" most of the time, it will cause undue stress on the middle bracket, which raises and lowers the shield. Move the shield up slightly off the metal-stop to avoid the potential damage. Keep in mind you cannot replace just the bracket. The entire lift-mechanism has to be replaced to the tune of around $600.
Check your windshield brackets often:
They have been known to fail occasionally. The consensus is if you run with your shield "full-down" most of the time, it will cause undue stress on the middle bracket, which raises and lowers the shield. Move the shield up slightly off the metal-stop to avoid the potential damage. Keep in mind you cannot replace just the bracket. The entire lift-mechanism has to be replaced to the tune of around $600.
2010 Windshield Problem
Check out my threads on the same problem "2010 Windshield Problem". These arms are breaking all over the place and BRP should pick up the tab. I am out of warranty and trying to get my dealer to get BRP to at least supply the parts. If you read my thread someone said the arm itself cannot be replaced the whole motor assembly has to be purchased at close to &700.00 not including labor. We should petition BRP to own up to this known design problem.
Check out my threads on the same problem "2010 Windshield Problem". These arms are breaking all over the place and BRP should pick up the tab. I am out of warranty and trying to get my dealer to get BRP to at least supply the parts. If you read my thread someone said the arm itself cannot be replaced the whole motor assembly has to be purchased at close to &700.00 not including labor. We should petition BRP to own up to this known design problem.
This is my second dogbone.
It's starting to break.
I need to find out if it's covered by the BEST Warranty
Please do. I'd buy in a flash!
My experience is that w/s position made no difference. Mine failed (600 mi from home) and I never run with the shield all the way down, resting on its stops. Your price is about right, the part keeps going up every year, but note that BRP flat rate is only 1/2 hour. There have been comments in this forum where dealers quoted much longer times. The dealer that did mine put in the warranty claim for 1/2 hour -- all that he was allowed. That's what the flat rate manual shows.
2010 Windshield Arm Crack
I'm at 17,000+ miles and still under extended warranty when I spotted the cracking. Talked with my mechanic and they have replaced a few assemblies at the ride's cost, not covered under warranty. When I mentioned others I knew of, he stated BRP does not think it is a problem so they aren't covering the fix. On the 2010s, he said you need the entire assembly and that is around $200; he said you can't get just the arm that breaks. I used JB Weld and so far seems to be holding fairly well but I'm watching these posts closely for a more permanent fix whether supplied by BRP or not. Rode with a group back in early June and we had to pull over one time when the leader on his 2012 RT had the arm break...a little disconcerting at 65 MPH according to him.
I'm at 17,000+ miles and still under extended warranty when I spotted the cracking. Talked with my mechanic and they have replaced a few assemblies at the ride's cost, not covered under warranty. When I mentioned others I knew of, he stated BRP does not think it is a problem so they aren't covering the fix. On the 2010s, he said you need the entire assembly and that is around $200; he said you can't get just the arm that breaks. I used JB Weld and so far seems to be holding fairly well but I'm watching these posts closely for a more permanent fix whether supplied by BRP or not. Rode with a group back in early June and we had to pull over one time when the leader on his 2012 RT had the arm break...a little disconcerting at 65 MPH according to him.
As I said above, mine was replaced under warranty no problem at all. Not BEST but the original warranty. So I can't vouch for BEST. For 2011 and 2012 the part no. is 705004774 and lists for $604. Plus 1/2 hour labor. For 2010 the part no. is 705003266 and is shown as unavailable. Go figure.
Yeah, when that thing breaks, it's "disconcerting". The shield swings out and up and then settles against the top of the dash. At moderate speeds, it directs all the air flow right at your neck (I'm 6'2") -- noisy as all getout. At higher speeds it's pretty wild and when a semi passes you, that thing really flaps around from the turbulence. We had to ride 200 mi that way, fortunately mostly on the Natchez Trace which was a nice 50mph, no trucks, and little traffic. But not fun at all. My passenger was extremely uncomfortable, waiting for the worst to happen, whatever that might be.
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
WELL YOU ASKED FOR IT
:clap::2excited:.......I have just finished making my first " re-placement " center arm bracket for the RT windshield ......I believe it is strong enough to tow my car. I just finished painting it so it hasn't been put back on my RT yet. I need to establish a procedure for re-mounting the arm and how it needs to be positioned so the windshield will operate within it's normal range.......More to follow.......Mikeguyver :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
:clap::2excited:.......I have just finished making my first " re-placement " center arm bracket for the RT windshield ......I believe it is strong enough to tow my car. I just finished painting it so it hasn't been put back on my RT yet. I need to establish a procedure for re-mounting the arm and how it needs to be positioned so the windshield will operate within it's normal range.......More to follow.......Mikeguyver :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
jcthorne
Well-known member
Have no idea why your dealer would tell you this. The broken mount IS covered by warranty. If your dealer says otherwise you need to contact BRP directly. Its a defect, its broken. That is the basic premise of the warranty. Why on earth would you think otherwise. The bike cannot be ridden safely once the arm is broken. There have been a number of instances posted where BRP paid to warrant this repair. Its your dealer than needs fixing.
jcthorne
Well-known member
Look forward to seeing what you came up with. Let me know if I can post the photos for you....
Bob Denman
New member
Recall? :shocked:
Or Technical Service Bulletin? :dontknow:
Or Technical Service Bulletin? :dontknow:
Bob Denman
New member
:lecturef_smilie: Michael...
If you don't figure out how to post pictures soon... :gaah:
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
THE PIC THINGY....HAHAHAHA
:agree:.........However in the whole scheme of things a pic is not important ......The elements of the cure are .....I made two side plates ( of steel ) custom ground the ends of these to fit into/on the factory cast ends .......then I wrapped the entire " arm " with approx. 7 1/2 in. of 1/16 steel strap.......and then slowly welded the plates to the strap.....First one side , then I inserted the OEM arm , then put on the other plate and weld that....................I would BET MY LIFE that this will not break...............Prior to painting it , I actually put it in my vise and hit it a few times with a hammer ..............scuffed the metal slightly :yikes:..........but that was all it did ............It's going on my new RT to re-place the OEM piece. I'm not going to wait for that to break, which from the sounds of this thread there is high likely-hood ..............Mikeguyver :thumbup:
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I don't know what the bore dia. is on the arm... but it does not really matter... Looks to me like you could take a piece of pipe (the right size) and weld a plate in between and make a whole new arm... If no pipe is the right size...take a piece of solid rod and drill to right size. Looks easy to make....
Bob Denman
New member
It's getting all of the pieces nailed back together... :shocked:
THAT'S the fun part!
THAT'S the fun part!
Bob Denman
New member
Mike's good with wrenches 
:thumbup:
But computers??? :shocked:
:thumbup:But computers??? :shocked:
BLUEKNIGHT911
Sadly Passed Oct 2024 - RIP
WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAT
:congrats: ...:agree:...:roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:........PLUS YOU'VE MADE ME WET MY SELF WITH THAT JOKE :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:........................................pLEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEZE TAKE PICS :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:...........Mikeguyver :thumbup:
jthornton
New member
It's a bit more complicated than you might imagine. The bottom is a metric hex that is broached in and the top has plain bearings pressed into the arm. Seems like no matter how long you search you can't find metric ID pipe or hex pipe. Oh and the hex has to be in a certain orientation for the stepper motor to work correctly. I think the unit has an absolute encoder on the stepper motor...
JT
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