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why such big difference on tire life

kbwitt

New member
People report 1,000 to 5,000 or more milage on same tire.
Is it do to the following.
1: changing way before it gets even with wear bar and other rider going past wear bar.
2: with so much pressure on one tire would hard acceleration cause faster wear?
3: hard breaking ?
4: condition , ruffness and temperature of roads riding on ?
5: of coarse improper inflation. Is big
Kenn
 
I can honestly say that my motorcycle tires have always outlived their life expectancy due to two factors:

(1) I'm religious about maintaining proper air pressure.
(2) Dynamic balancing with Ride-On (Balance beads have the same effect). No weights allowed on my wheels.

Pam
 
All of those can be factors, along with riding style, or whether they do a lot of long or short trips.
I get pretty much the same from each rear tyre, about 17,000kms which is probably around 11-12,000 miles.
It was similar on all 4 Spyders I have had, RS, RSS, ST and now F3. And I have only ever used Kenda's
 
Be careful about what you mean when you say "same tire".
It's well documented that BRP went to a different compound for a while in their tires, even though they were all OEM Kendas of the same size.
I think they tried to make the tire stick better by using a softer rubber, and that of course reduced the mileage.
People complained they were only getting 5K miles.
Since then, they went back to a harder, longer (sic) lasting compound, maybe giving 10 or 12K on the tire.
Riding style has a lot to do with tire life. If you are an aggressive rider, obviously you're beating your tires pretty well.
Me........I'm touring through life at this stage. I like to ride and look at the scenery, and not have to concentrate on the patch of road 30 feet in front of me.
I can get 20K miles on the front tires. I've switched to a Kumho on the rear because I didn't need that soft compound and would prefer longer life. At 8,000 miles it looks brand new.
Also, a laser alignment goes a long way to increase tire life. Misaligned wheels damage the tires, both front and back. I chewed up a pair of front tires in 3K miles with a poor alignment.

Just my opinion, I could be wrong. I'm sure somebody on this forum will let me know about it.
 
Kbwitt, all those things mentioned by others above apply, just like all those things you mentioned will have some impact on your tire wear, but don't forget that there's a heap of other stuff that will have a big impact too!! Things like the weight of the rider/pillion (ie, the load on the tire); the ambient temperature, air temps & road temps will make a difference; the speed you ride at (not just hard accel &/or braking); how long the tire was sitting around before it got fitted (tires 'go off' over time, & storing them for a while before fitting can seriously impact their wear/life & the traction you get from them!!) and a vast array of other things too!! And as Pampurrs said, religious maintenance of pressure & balance can have a big impact too - without that, you are almost certainly going to get significantly LESS life out of a tire than with it; but what do you call religious maintenance vs what anyone else does in the way of maintenance?? How long is a piece of string?? :rolleyes:

What it all comes down to is that your tires will last longer if you care for them better & look after them better than just fitting them and forgetting them; but how much difference that 'care & maintenance' makes is pretty subjective because of all the other variables that also have some (significant??) impact!! No-one give you a prescription that can tell you exactly what to do, what pressures to run, what way to ride, etc in order to get a given number of miles, cos that all varies from bike to bike, rider to rider, road to road, the speed you ride at today to the speed you rode at yesterday, season to season, daily temperature to daily temperature, and a vast heap more!! :yikes:

All you can do is maintain your tires & pressure as much as you feel comfortable with, ride your Spyder (bike/car/truck/whatever) in a manner you feel comfortable with, and if you don't get the tire life or tire behaviour/performance that you are happy with, then you get the choice of either putting up with that or changing one or more of the variables over which you have some control!! More maintenance maybe; drive/ride slower possibly; watch your tire pressures closely & set them more specifically for what YOU do, how you ride etc; change the brand or construction of the tire you run to something better suited to you & your needs; or you could decide that's all too hard & you'll just go with the OE tires & the placard pressures & put up with the tire life & handling you get from them - it's ALL YOUR CHOICE, & no-one else can really force you to do anything apart from what you want to do; but that means you get the results your choices lead to - and btw, that's gonna be different to the results that anyone else would get cos somewhere along the line, one of their choices is bound to be different to yours, &/OR one of the variables over which they have no control will be different, so the results will almost always vary to some degree! The bigger the differences, the bigger the variance! :shocked:

So do as much or as little as you are prepared to do to get the results that you want, but after doing that, all you can do is Ride More, Worry Less!! :thumbup:
 
Just like the commercials for things like weight loss products that have the disclaimer "results not typical, your results may differ".
 
How you maintain, but also type of riding you do....

Stop and go city riding and "burnin and churnin" will obviously shorten the life of a tire and your brakes. Some people get longer life on their brakes as well due to the types or routes, highway versus city riding, canyons and twisties or flatland cruising.

My wife and I enjoy riding the rolling country roads and open country in the plains east of the mountains and often can cruise for 60 miles without hitting the brakes or shifting gears.

The reason rear tires wear out faster has a lot to do with every upshift, downshift and on two wheelers, the separate rear brake application that a lot of us non-pro riders do relying on the rear brake. I bet that there is a difference in wear between manual shift bikes, and the SE's although the shift programming seems to do a good job of providing smooth shifts and minimizing scrub on the tires. The shortest tire life I experienced was with the higher torque shifts and braking on my old Road King, man that thing would eat up rear tires.

Our 2015 RTS seems to get pretty good life with 12,500 miles on the OEM Kenda and we're guessing 23,000 plus on the Kumho (currently at 18,000 miles plus). Took a look at the brake pads and still a couple 32's on the rear pads at 30,400 miles, and fronts are only half gone. Your mileage WILL vary!!
 
Over five different Spyders I have pretty much got the same mileage out of OEM tires, which I have to use.

Fronts 20K plus and rear tires, 15K ballpark. I did have an issue with the "softer" rear tire that my 2014 came equipped with. I got 8.9K out of that one. Poor alignment on the 2011 and the fronts were crap at about 11K.
 
My tire mileage seems to run a bit less than most of you guys.
I blame it on the roads that I ride! :D

I'm not an aggressive rider... :dontknow:
 
Wow...!!

There are so many things that will determine how long your particular tire will last . You can start with the model you ryde...semi auto or manual RT, RS, RSS, ST or F3...where you live...where you ryde...road surface (varies from place to place)...tire pressure and air/mixture used...altitude (do you ryde mountains and valleys adjusting your pressure)....in town%backroads%freeways%...solo%double%....brand and size tire used...weather (cold, hot, dry, humid)...ryding style and on and on. I have used the Kendas averaging 17,000 miles on the rears and 30,000 miles on the fronts. But thats me for how I ryde, where I ryde . :thumbup:
 
2010 RT: 7,000 out of the OEM, and 8,000 out of a Falken
I swapped the bike in, with only 2,000 miles on a Kumho...
2014 RT: 5700 miles on the OEM, and I currently have 8600 on a Kumho.
It's showing some age, but will survive at least the rest of this year. :thumbup:
 
TIRE WEAR

2010 RT: 7,000 out of the OEM, and 8,000 out of a Falken
I swapped the bike in, with only 2,000 miles on a Kumho...
2014 RT: 5700 miles on the OEM, and I currently have 8600 on a Kumho.
It's showing some age, but will survive at least the rest of this year. :thumbup:
I'll only reference my 2014 RT ...Front - toyo T 1 r's 185/55-15, @ 21,000 and I do have equal edge wear but could go to 30,000 ............Rear - Michelin Hydro- Edge 215/60-15 , @ 15,000 very even wear and think 30,000 + ............I do ride aggressive, I have had no Hydroplaning issues .....Mike
 
I'll only reference my 2014 RT ...Front - toyo T 1 r's 185/55-15, @ 21,000 and I do have equal edge wear but could go to 30,000 ............Rear - Michelin Hydro- Edge 215/60-15 , @ 15,000 very even wear and think 30,000 + ............I do ride aggressive, I have had no Hydroplaning issues .....Mike
How hard you twist the grip has a lot to do with it
 
I had just a little over 11,000 miles out of my stock rear tire on my 2011 RTS. I changed my front tires at the same time, but they still looked real good.
 
2011 RT SM-5 ran 2 sets each of OEM Kendas then...

The OEM 14 inch fronts got around 20,000 each after ROLO alignment, and 12,000 miles and 8,000 (on softer compound tire) then switched to Kumhos on the back and got 20,000 miles plus from each of two Kumhos, then went to Michelin Defenders on front and back and they looked new when we traded at 76,000 miles.

Wifes 2015 SE6 got 12,500 miles on the OEM rear Kenda and 23,000 miles on the OEM Kenda fronts. Changed to Kumho rear and have 18,000 miles and she just left to put some more miles on.. the fronts changed out at 23,000 miles to Kumho Solus KH 16's and she says she "loves the smooth ride" and they are looking new after 7,500 miles..

For us more miles mean more smiles :):):):):):)
 
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