Why not on of these 3 cyl engines

[Bob Denman]

I passed it about twenty minutes ago! :roflblack:

 

[Wildrice]

A salesman at a DE dealer said he had done 110 mph in first gear on a Hayabusa. Don't know if that's possible with the red line, but that was his claim.

It's normally 80-90 But Change the Front sprocket to 19 or 20 tooth & reduce the rear sprocket to a 37 tooth--I haven't done it but its possible. Now lets discuss speedo accuracy. land speed racing in the group I was with required a 125 mph pass +/- then 150 mph pass +/-, then 175 mph pass, then a 200 pass. I have seen several guys fail to certify the 175 MPH pass because their speed was reading 175 Mph but the 132' timing clock showed low 160 mph. thus the 110 speedo has lots of variables. Almost all bike show a faster speedo mph than actual timed speed mph.

Thus with modified sprockets--its possible, or via bike speedo it would be inaccurate. My trans has a lower 1st gear & an overdrive in 5th & 6th gear via Robinson Industries--cost slightly over $2000. It's been a while since I had my 1st stock Hayabusa but I kinda remember seeing approx 85-90 mph speedo.in 1st gear. All the BS stops at the official timed track. Plus most of the track guys have reflashed ECU's. Stock RPM is 10,800 & the tach reads approx 400 rpm higher than actual. Mine is reflashed to 11,200 but the dyno doesn't show any major benefit in rwhp/torq with my turbo engine setup above 10,800. In the land of advanced riding skills--I fall toward the lower end.

 

[canamjhb]

Most bikes have errors in the speedo. Years ago I installed a "Speedo-Healer" on my old Goldwing. That allowed me to calibrate the error out of the speedo (using GPS on several runs for accuracy). As a group rider leader I often encountered riders who thought I was too fast and going to get us tickets. Never happened..... Checking the Spyder speedo against the GPS speed, I find there is only a couple MPH difference. Not enough to mess with.

 

[canamjhb]

Most bikes have errors in the speedo. Years ago I installed a "Speedo-Healer" on my old Goldwing. That allowed me to calibrate the error out of the speedo (using GPS on several runs for accuracy). As a group rider leader I often encountered riders who thought I was too fast and going to get us tickets. Never happened..... Checking the Spyder speedo against the GPS speed, I find there is only a couple MPH difference. Not enough to mess with.

BTW; I could easily see 80 MPH in second gear on my 1800 Goldwing

 

[Wildrice]

Most bikes have errors in the speedo. Years ago I installed a "Speedo-Healer" on my old Goldwing. That allowed me to calibrate the error out of the speedo (using GPS on several runs for accuracy). As a group rider leader I often encountered riders who thought I was too fast and going to get us tickets. Never happened..... Checking the Spyder speedo against the GPS speed, I find there is only a couple MPH difference. Not enough to mess with.

The speedo % of error is not linear. I had a 10" laptop strapped to my fuel tank with a gps addition. The faster I went--the greater % of error. Tires with 50% wear will show a big difference. My weirdest was 73 mph--& I retested several times--I had an additional 3 mph error speedo jump at 73 mph---(This was on a 2006 Hayabusa) other bikes may be different--but my story of riders going thru the timing traps showing 175 mph speedo which was actually low end 160 mph is a true story.
Darrell

PS: anybody want to buy any rear busa sprockets? 37 tooth, 38, 39, & 46 tooth with lots for 40 tooth sprockets.:yikes:

 

[Spyd_Piper]

If they wanted to, the 1330 could net 160hp. Naturally Aspirated. Or more reliably - adding a turbo setup (minimal weight gain) could net whatever power realistically wanted.

 

[Bob Denman]

Horsepower is rarely cheap... and never free! :banghead:
Rotax builds a great engine, with a service life that is far in excess of 100,000 miles.

How many of those miles are you willing to trade, for the horsepower that you want? :dontknow:

 

[Spyd_Piper]

Horsepower doesn't hurt engine or reliability. Heat or high rpm does. Its all in the design and modifications of that.

Reliably issues only come into play at the extremes. Gaining power for any given engine design usually comes at an rpm increase for the power curve. Or creating heat that can't be dissipated. However, most engines become more reliable, run cooler, dissipate heat better with proper power / efficiency increase. 160hp is the extreme. 130hp is not. :cheers:

 

[Bob Denman]

But horsepower does create heat; the cooling systems have to be able to handle the extra load... :thumbup:

 

[Spyd_Piper]

But horsepower does create heat; the cooling systems have to be able to handle the extra load... :thumbup:

No. Heat is lost energy that is not transferred. You will never overheat a really built engine at 1/2 to wot. Its always at idle or low speeds that these overheat.

I understand where you are coming from, but that is very old school. Back in the day of carburetors, big cams made the engine run like crap at low rpm. Very inefficient. Late valve closing and raw fuel would be in the exhaust. Where it could continue to burn. This would heat up the exhaust manifolds, engine and full exhaust system. Creating a ton of heat. And problems. Overheating was normal and you couldn't let the engine idle long or cruise long without cooling modifications etc.
Today and EFI is not like this at all. Huge cams can purr like a kitten. Fuel is not wasted or ever dumped in the exhaust. There is more problems fighting with heat when meeting emissions. But not like this on the performance side.