Who Uses Shell Rotella T-6

[ekusafetyman]

Thanks to everyone for sharing your experience with Shell Rotella T6

 

[RiderDuke]

I have been a fan of both M1 10w40 4T and Amsoil 10w40 metric m/c oil for years and will continue using them. In fairness to Rotella T6, I have never heard of any oil related motor problems...

Amsoil 10w40 metric MC oil here also... To me it's worth the little bit extra $$

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

Shell Rotella T6 5w40 has a reputation of quickly shearing down in shared sump bikes.

I went with the T-6 10w-40 in the hopes that it would be more durable but with how cheap it is I am changing it out at every 5k instead of th 9.3 k recommended for the BRP XPS oil.

 

[bikerbillone]

Wheer are you finding Rotella T6 10/40? I'd love to use it but I can't find it.

 

[PMK]

Wheer are you finding Rotella T6 10/40? I'd love to use it but I can't find it.

According to Shells brochure, 10w40 is not offered, but 5w40 and 15w40 is.

https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/products/full-synthetic-oil/t6-full-synthetic.html

 

[troop]

I went with the T-6 10w-40 in the hopes that it would be more durable but with how cheap it is I am changing it out at every 5k instead of th 9.3 k recommended for the BRP XPS oil.

https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/products/full-synthetic-oil/t6-full-synthetic.html

Yup .. according to Shell oil, Rotella T6 full syn is offered in 0w40, 5w40, 15w40 and 10w30 weights. I see no 10w40 blends in T4/T5/T6 oils.

 

[bikerbillone]

Oh yes, why they dumped the 10/40 is none of my business, but I continue to look for another brand I suppose, which might be Mobil One.. I had a wild thought of half T6 Rotella 5/40 and half T6 Rotella 15/40, but that could be a dumb thought.

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

According to Shells brochure, 10w40 is not offered, but 5w40 and 15w40 is.

https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/products/full-synthetic-oil/t6-full-synthetic.html

I just woke up and saw this and went out to the garage to verify and I think I found out why I am having the stalling issues in cold weather.

It's the 15w40, I could have sworn I saw 10w-40 when I bought it at walmart. LOL I think I need to go in for an "old man checkup" between this and me forgetting about the kill switch a couple of weeks ago is really making me question my state of mind right now.

 

[jjc54]

Do we have anybody here who has had their Shell oil analyzed and is willing to share their findings with us? With an oil analysis of the XPS blended stuff proved to me that I never want to use this again. Virtually the viscosity was gone!

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I just woke up and saw this and went out to the garage to verify and I think I found out why I am having the stalling issues in cold weather.

It's the 15w40, I could have sworn I saw 10w-40 when I bought it at walmart. LOL I think I need to go in for an "old man checkup" between this and me forgetting about the kill switch a couple of weeks ago is really making me question my state of mind right now.

T-6 is a Full synthetic .... I don't think they will thicken in cold temps like a dino oil will ....JMHO ....Mike :thumbup:

 

[troop]

Do we have anybody here who has had their Shell oil analyzed and is willing to share their findings with us? With an oil analysis of the XPS blended stuff proved to me that I never want to use this again. Virtually the viscosity was gone!

Lots of T6 info on https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

 

[Lew L]

.

Now using 15w-40 Rotella in the high desert. Used to use the 5w-40 but liking the slightly heavier oil.

 

[bikerbillone]

Thinking hard about 15/40, it's working for you? Tell how it's better for you than the 5/40 if you will. I know it's heavier, and may even reduce the mpg.....

 

[PMK]

Thinking hard about 15/40, it's working for you? Tell how it's better for you than the 5/40 if you will. I know it's heavier, and may even reduce the mpg.....

As general truths;

The lower number / first viscosity is a rating for oil that is not warmed up. Not uncommon for engine manufacturers to utilize oils with a 0w, or 5w, to increase cold oil flow to lubricate many times, overhead cams. Oils with greater viscosity before warm up, such as 10w, 15w, 20w, may not provide high pressure film strength on account of poor cold flow.

Owners manuals often show a viscosity vs temp chart. Again, as a general statement, an easy to recall temp of not using more viscous cold rated oil can be below 32*f, when a 5w would be better.

Regarding the 40 rating, that is the increased viscosity for warm oil. Technically a 5w40 vs 10w40 vs 15w40 are all 40 wt at warmed up temp.

Additionally, often, but not always, the closer the cold and hot oil temp are, the stronger the VI rating. A higher VI rating, typically is better for a gearbox such as in the Spyder.

While some folks here have read articles, forum posts, etc. and repeat internet learned knowledge, my experience on the race bikes knows the reality of low VI oils, and how it adversely effects selecting each gear. Never fun when accomplishing wide open throttle upshifts with a very slight partial clutch release. Finding false neutrals, or breaking a gearbox can ruin a good raceday.

Continuing, a modern engine with decent oil, very seldom will have an issue. Essentially, engines are not hard on oils. Granted, cam lobes against tappets is a high load shearing event, but not that bad.

A gearbox on the other hand shreds the oil molecules, reducing its effective viscosity, AND not providing the cushioning plus anti wear to gear teeth, gear dogs, primary drive and even clutch plates.

Here in SoFlo, we have maybe 2 days a year in the really cold 30s. For us, we seldom ride if 60 or below, so I am beyond comfortable running 10w40. Yes, I prefer Mobil 1 10w40 motorcycle oil for not only its very high test results, but also, the gearbox does shift better, and often, with warm oil, seldom has the clunk going into gear. It does clunk sometimes, but less often than most.

I totally understand that many owners live on fixed incomes or similar, and carry that frugality with the oil they use for their Spyder. Yes, I pay more for the Mobil 1 motorcycle oil, but remains cost effective for our lifestyle and Spyder.

All the best, whichever you decide to go with.

Also, for higher rpm, or higher performance engines, even our cars, I seldom switch brands unless for very good reasons. The logic is engine cleanliness and not wanting to release any build ups that may block a an oil pump suction screen.

 

[troop]

For warmer weather climates, maybe a 10w50..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MISF54/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[Chasdog]

Great oil thread! I've read most of the comments. I am a Mobil 1 fan myself and that has been the predominant oil in my motorcycles for the past 15 or more years. Mobile 1 racing 4T was my go-to oil. I generally try to stick with the recommendation for viscosity the manufacturer suggests. I’ve used some Lucas oil before and was happy with that.
Recently picked up several gallons of T6 5W40. I emailed Shell about the suitability of the T6 oil for motorcycles and to the best of my memory they assured me it had the JASO MA certification.
Anyway, I’m still using the Can Am semi-synthetic in our 2023 RT. May switch to the T6 after I finish the expensive stuff.
So far, I’ve only put the T6 in my Can Am ATV.

 

[PJveetwin]

I've been using 15/40 in my Cummins diesel, my Toyota FJC, and my non-Harley cycles for some 20 years. When I read it was compatible with my RTL, it was a no brainer! I get it at Walmart and Amazon via 1 gal jugs. For a time, I could only get it at Walmart in a 5 gal container. A little more difficult to deal with, but it was also a little cheaper.