who has dyno'ed their spyder how to hook up

[SethO]

I got to dyno my spyder and the guy that has the dyno has no idea how to get it on there, how to hook up to get more that hp/torque or how to brace it. Someone one here had a dyno chart. was wondering how they did all of that stuff, thanks for the input ahead of time

 

[tweeder]

You need to remove and tie up all 4 wheel speed sensors in order to be able to run it on the dyno. If not the nanny'll shut you down.

 

[Lamonster]

You need to remove and tie up all 4 wheel speed sensors in order to be able to run it on the dyno. If not the nanny'll shut you down.

Just the rear, the front wheels don't move on the dyno.

 

[bone crusher]

Very cool...we'll see what all those changes did for hp...hyea:

 

[SethO]

Just the rear, the front wheels don't move on the dyno.

Can you just cover the senors I have noticed this about riding at night that if you ride "hard" with street lights it F's the TCS up and it will not work I have had the spyder up over 30 degrees on a simple 90 the system did not work. My theory was the TCS was unable to understand the shadows it was reading or could not see them, don't know if anyone else had this problem at night. Also I leave work at 5am and with "no one" on the road I can push thru my closed course and you can slide the rear tire around as if the TCS is less sensitive and you can get more out of the spyder in the corners. Of course doing this there is a risk of "high side" if that is possible but if you don't care about eating sh?? like me try it out. I do have the update right now.

 

[Firefly]

Not sure what they charge to run on a Dyno--- I decided to buy one of these instead:

http://www.veypor.com/vr2.html

Pretty slick unit.

 

[tweeder]

Just the rear, the front wheels don't move on the dyno.

I thought that the nanny took input from all sensors. So if the fronts not moving and ths back is, wouldn't it shut you down? Sorta like doing a burn out, it shuts me down but if I drive all the wheels are doing the same and all's ok. I'm not sure as i've not done it yet.

 

[Firefly]

I thought that the nanny took input from all sensors. So if the fronts not moving and ths back is, wouldn't it shut you down? Sorta like doing a burn out, it shuts me down but if I drive all the wheels are doing the same and all's ok. I'm not sure as i've not done it yet.

If you disconnect the rear tire sensors the computer doesn't know the rear tire is spinning. As long as the front tires are also not spinning - the nanny will not know you are moving and all will be good.

 

[bjt]

I thought that the nanny took input from all sensors. So if the fronts not moving and ths back is, wouldn't it shut you down? Sorta like doing a burn out, it shuts me down but if I drive all the wheels are doing the same and all's ok. I'm not sure as i've not done it yet.

It does get input from all four sensors but on a dyno machine like SethO is talking about, the front wheels do not turn, only the rear. Disconnecting the rear sensors is the all that's needed to ignore the rear wheel spinning with the fronts not spinning.

 

[bjt]

Can you just cover the senors I have noticed this about riding at night that if you ride "hard" with street lights it F's the TCS up and it will not work I have had the spyder up over 30 degrees on a simple 90 the system did not work. My theory was the TCS was unable to understand the shadows it was reading or could not see them, don't know if anyone else had this problem at night. Also I leave work at 5am and with "no one" on the road I can push thru my closed course and you can slide the rear tire around as if the TCS is less sensitive and you can get more out of the spyder in the corners. Of course doing this there is a risk of "high side" if that is possible but if you don't care about eating sh?? like me try it out. I do have the update right now.

I don't believe that the sensors are an optical type of sensor. I think they are some type of magnetic sensor that reads a metal "target" passing the face of the sensor. The "target" is the notched metal ring mounted on each wheel.

 

[tweeder]

If you disconnect the rear tire sensors the computer doesn't know the rear tire is spinning. As long as the front tires are also not spinning - the nanny will not know you are moving and all will be good.

Yeah, wasn't thinkin straight; totaly makes sense.

 

[SethO]

I don't believe that the sensors are an optical type of sensor. I think they are some type of magnetic sensor that reads a metal "target" passing the face of the sensor. The "target" is the notched metal ring mounted on each wheel.

I see, so do you disconect it from where, the back by the wheel or follow the sensors up and unplug them. ON the track I locked the brakes to burn the rear tire to heat it up and as long as the spyder was straight but I did not shift it I can't see that mattering but I will check that this morning

 

[bjt]

I think the rear sensors are mounted on a plate that's held in position at the rear wheel by two bolts. For running on a dyno, I'd just remove the whole plate and somehow affix it out of the way.

 

[SethO]

cool, thanks for all the info.

 

[tweeder]

I see, so do you disconect it from where, the back by the wheel or follow the sensors up and unplug them. ON the track I locked the brakes to burn the rear tire to heat it up and as long as the spyder was straight but I did not shift it I can't see that mattering but I will check that this morning

Heating up street tires only makes them greasy, it only works on racing slicks.