Which wire to cut for Kisan Headlight modulator?

[Spyder Monkey]

So Kisan does not make the model with the inline plugs anymore (P115W-D6). Instead they now sell the P115W-H3 for the Spyder which requires you to splice the Kisan inline. Looking at the wiring diagram, I am guessing the correct line is the red / blue wire downstream of the headlight relay. Does anybody have the old model with the inline plug to tell which wire gets interrupted?

Thanks,
David

 

[Spyder Monkey]

Now that it is time to cut the wire, I am getting nervous about which wire to splice it in. They recommend splicing in the High beam circuit in the generic instructions but the can am does not have a true "high beam", it has a shutter which dims the lows. If I splice it in the "HLC-2" line, that is going to modulate the voltage to the high beam solenoids, which feels wrong. If I splice it into HLC-5, then it modulates all the time on high or low beam.

Any opinions?

 

[Spyder Monkey]

Now that it is time to cut the wire, I am getting nervous about which wire to splice it in. They recommend splicing in the High beam circuit in the generic instructions but the can am does not have a true "high beam", it has a shutter which dims the lows. If I splice it in the "HLC-2" line, that is going to modulate the voltage to the high beam solenoids, which feels wrong. If I splice it into HLC-5, then it modulates all the time on high or low beam.

Any opinions?

For the record, I cut HLC-5, the Red / Blue wire and it modulates on both high and low beam. Obnoxious but after a life flight ride a few years ago, I can live with obnoxious.
David

 

[JCSMOKE]

ray:Cut the red wire:lecturef_smilie:no cut the blue one! :yikes: BOOOOM!

sorry, I have no help to give on thispps: but it was just too good to leave alone

 

[NancysToy]

Without a separate high beam circuit, and with the low beam switched by the solenoid, so it works the reverse of what you want, the only way to do this would be with an additional relay.

 

[Spyder Monkey]

Without a separate high beam circuit, and with the low beam switched by the solenoid, so it works the reverse of what you want, the only way to do this would be with an additional relay.

If you really wanted it to work, you could probably rig the high beam solenoid signal into some kind of logic "AND" signal with the daylight sensor so it only enables modulation if the high beam solenoid is enabled and the daylight sensor is seeing light. But more trouble than it was worth for me.
David

 

[NancysToy]

If you really wanted it to work, you could probably rig the high beam solenoid signal into some kind of logic "AND" signal with the daylight sensor so it only enables modulation if the high beam solenoid is enabled and the daylight sensor is seeing light. But more trouble than it was worth for me.
David

There is no high beam solenoid. If there was, you could just tap the solenoid wire. It is a low beam shutter. Tapping the logic of the Spyder has proven to be an elusive goal thus far. In addition, the GS/RS doesn't have a daylight sensor. I guess that makes it even more trouble. The simplest answer would be to use the low beam shutter to trigger a relay to reverse that signal, which could then activate the modulator.

 

[Phil]

My suggestion would to not do a modulator on the headlights or fog lights. Too critical to your safety and critical to limp mode sensing. I WOULD suggest adding LED day runners and modulate them. I haven't tried it, but there's a high probability that one like the pathBlazer will work.


Phil, Tyler TX- from my iPad 7.5 using Tapatalk HD

 

[Spyder Monkey]

To clarify to both of you... the Kisan includes a simple photodiode to enable modulation only when that diode is seeing bright light. This way the system fails safe. Just disconnect the photodiode or cover it up with tape and it is the same as if the modulator is not there.

David