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Where is Oil pressure sensor please

Bfromla

Well-known member
:dontknow: FYI After proper oil change; Oil light & code 5024 (low oil), now in limp home mode :banghead: :banghead: However, it is full on the dip-stick at operating temp.

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I have disconnected the battery for a couple hours for a good reboot. I'd like to take a look to see if it's something simple, like a wire that's come off, if I can... before attempting to get it fixed by the dealer. TIA
 
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Have you run it for a few minutes after the oil change?? Often these dry sump jobbies (& wet sump engines too, only to a lesser extent... :rolleyes: ) will drain oil out of the important places so that on re-starting, they might take a few minutes and a little gentle rev or two to build up proper oil pressure again after the change... so there's a good chance your problem & the code above could simply be due to that drained oil & just not running it up for long enough. :dontknow:

After any engine oil change, I usually start them up & let the engines idle for a few minutes; stop & re-check the oil level et al; & either top up/change as necessary. Then, when/if that's all good, I'll do a gentle run-up - if it's a vehicle, a short & gentle ride/drive down the road, only a couple of hundred yards & back, with a couple of gear changes thrown in, especially for those with wet clutches, or a 'run-up' on an aircraft engine. ;)

Just so long as you don't go over-board while doing this ie, don't bang it out to Wide Open Throttle; and you only take a few minutes to do this gently, then you aren't likely to do any real damage; but it should get your oil up to its operating pressure, clear any codes caused by the oil draining, and also pressurise things & run the engine for long enough to make it easy to identify any loose drain plugs &/or other leaks in the process. :ohyea:

Over to you! :thumbup:
 
Have you run it for a few minutes after the oil change?? Often these dry sump jobbies (& wet sump engines too, only to a lesser extent... :rolleyes: ) will drain oil out of the important places so that on re-starting, they might take a few minutes and a little gentle rev or two to build up proper oil pressure again after the change... so there's a good chance your problem & the code above could simply be due to that drained oil & just not running it up for long enough. :dontknow:

After any engine oil change, I usually start them up & let the engines idle for a few minutes; stop & re-check the oil level et al; & either top up/change as necessary. Then, when/if that's all good, I'll do a gentle run-up - if it's a vehicle, a short & gentle ride/drive down the road, only a couple of hundred yards & back, with a couple of gear changes thrown in, especially for those with wet clutches, or a 'run-up' on an aircraft engine. ;)

Just so long as you don't go over-board while doing this ie, don't bang it out to Wide Open Throttle; and you only take a few minutes to do this gently, then you aren't likely to do any real damage; but it should get your oil up to its operating pressure, clear any codes caused by the oil draining, and also pressurise things & run the engine for long enough to make it easy to identify any loose drain plugs &/or other leaks in the process. :ohyea:

Over to you! :thumbup:

Thanks yes. I ran it for some #days & 400+ miles when this showed. :sour: This is what is confusing, it was running fine 'til the limp home. Being the SE5, I have experienced actual low oil shifting problems & those happened without any codes or lights occurring. So it's gotta be the sensor or connections telling the computer the wrong info.
 
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Thanks yes. I ran it for some #days & 400+ miles.....< snip >....

..... So it's gotta be the sensor or connections telling the computer the wrong info.

Yeah, given the timing after the oil change, it certainly sounds like that! :shocked: Hopefully it IS just wrong info! :thumbup:
 
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Oil pressure switch is on the right side of engine, bottom side on clutch housing. Close to the bottom radiator hose elbow.
 
Check resistance between sensor and ground. It switches between fully opened and fully closed after couple seconds (2s-3s) after start. No change in resistance is a faulty sensor.
 
Finally got to the shop 1/5/21 & I got the update today! :sour: It’s not the sensor! :banghead: :gaah: There's no oil pressure! :dontknow:
 
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Are you sure sensor is ok? This would mean oil pump is damaged.
Did they check oil pressure with gauge?

It should be at least 1.5 bar when on idle.
 
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I think if it just happened after an oil change I would be checking that filter,make sure the o ring are on and are the right ones and that the filter is correct in every way, also make sure that the old filter and all the o ring were removed. Anything left behind could get trapped under the pressure relief valve causing lack of pressure. I hope you didnt drive this without pressure.
 
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Finally got to the shop 1/5/21 & I got the update today! :sour: It’s not the sensor! :banghead: :gaah: There's no oil pressure! :dontknow:

I had that on a 2015 F3 - blown motor. The plastic gear in the oil pump broke apart. BRP replaced the motor under warranty.
 
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Are you sure sensor is ok? This would mean oil pump is damaged.
Did they check oil pressure with gauge?

It should be at least 1,5bar when on idle.

I trust the shop, sorry don’t know exactly how made determination.

I had that on a 2015 F3 - blown motor. The plastic gear in the oil pump broke apart. BRP replaced the motor under warranty.

Unfortunately, no warranty left here :banghead: & this is the 998 motor with only 66k miles

I think if it just happened after an oil change I would be checking that filter,make sure the o ring are on and are the right ones and that the filter is correct in every way,also make sure that the old filter and all the o ring were removed.Anything left behind could get trapped under the pressure relief valve causing lack of pressure.I hope you didnt drive this without pressure.

Again trusting the other shop that did the change. & waiting to hear what current shop finds, have requested pics. Unfortunately did run little bit, Not knowing this condition. (Repeated test & moving around yard, loading on trailer.)
 
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I trust the shop, sorry don’t know exactly how made determination.



Unfortunately, no warranty left here :banghead: & this is the 998 motor with only 66k miles



Again trusting the other shop that did the change. & waiting to hear what current shop finds, have requested pics. Unfortunately did run little bit, Not knowing this condition. (Repeated test & moving around yard, loading on trailer.)


good luck sorry to hear.
 
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Well, my thought is, it was running fine before it went to the shop. Now it isn't running fine after getting it back
from the shop. Consider the common theme: "the shop". And if a guy working on it screwed up, he may, or may
not, own up to his mistake. But I would certainly think the problem lies with the shop.
 
Lil update: apparently the plastic oil pump :dontknow: :banghead: is shot from parts from the clutch. Shop sent some pics

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66304D20-66DF-418D-ACDE-357870BD315C.jpeg 2CC76121-BB8D-4F22-91A9-43C5775FE7D0.jpeg

I think it's the clutch hub, sorry, not for sure.
 
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So sorry to hear about the oil pressure issue.
At least you know the problem. Is this tied into the trouble you had this past summer?
Good luck with the repairs.
 
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