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Where is everyone getting SE5 Oil Filter and Oil these days?

RichGags

New member
Hey y'all. The price of the SE5 Oil change kit on Amazon (and from BRP directly) has increased so much in the last two years! It looks like I can get a filter for about $25 and oil for less if I purchase everything separately.

Where is everyone getting the oil change supplies these days?

Also, it is ok to use any 5W-40 oil or do I need to use the XPS 4T 5W-40?

Thank you.

Best,
Richard
2015 Spyder RS-S SE5
 
Buy all from Bajaron, or, from Lamonster. :thumbup: And Rotella also comes in a 5-40 JASO II weight. :clap: Tom :spyder:
 
If you decide to get anything from BajaRon Motorcycle Gear, it is best to call the shop. We sell on eBay and Facebook. But those are more expensive venues. Same stuff, less money if you call the shop @ 423-609-7588.

A 10/40 weight oil is a better fit for the Spyder. Particularly in warmer climates. This is the weight BRP recommended before they consolidated down to just 2 lubricants to take care of everything from snowmobiles to jet skis. A full synthetic oil is also, in my opinion, well worth the money. A blended oil (as the XPS recommended by BRP) is probably 10% synthetic and 90% mineral oil. 100% synthetic is worth the extra money. Especially if you intend to go the full 9,300 miles between service.

A good full synthetic oil does not need to be changed every year. It will do just fine. That alone can make a full synthetic oil less expensive for some. You should change the blended oil every year even if you don't go the full service interval.
 
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If you decide to get anything from BajaRon Motorcycle Gear, it is best to call the shop. We sell on eBay and Facebook. But those are more expensive venues. Same stuff, less money if you call the shop @ 423-609-7588.

Thank you I just called and purchased!
 
Thank you I just called and purchased!

I just used my first BajaRon filter & O-ring kit yesterday. I also called the shop and spoke with Paige (think that was her name, sorry) she was super pleasant, knowledgeable and informative. I’ll be buying more products thru Ron based on my first experience
 
I always get my filter and ring kits from Baja Ron … placed my 4th order just this week. Shell Rotella T6 wherever it is cheapest when I need it.
 
I got my kit from BajaRon as well. I did not use the crush washers, as I bought Gold Plugs after fighting the OEM ones out. Gold Plugs come with a good supply of washers. As for oil, I’m partial to Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40. It is JASO-MA2 Certified for wet clutches. Especially important in the SE models! I just can’t bring myself to using Rotella that says “For Diesel Engines” for my Spydey, although plenty of guys throughout many motorcycle forums do. Not me.
 
Oil filter from BajaRon and Rotella 15W40 from Walmart.

Not wanting to make this an oil thread, 'cause the pop corn muncher's will come out... I use the 5/40 Rotella T6, I'm tempted to use the 15/40 next change since I live in Florida and should not be a problem. Any thoughtful comments on the viscosity?
 
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Not wanting to make this an oil thread, 'cause the pop corn muncher's will come out... I use the 5/40 Rotella T6, I'm tempted to use the 15/40 next change since I live in Florida and should not be a problem. Any thoughtful comments on the viscosity?

If it gets -45 down there you'll be protected!!!:popcorn:
 
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Have used the T-6 full syn for years in all sorts of bikes. Always available somewhere for reasonable price. Even though there was a post around the owners manual says you dont have to use JASMO oil, I'm sticking with it. Lucas and Amsoil are also good. Watch for sales of your choice. Filters I picked up WIX off amazon.
 
Baja Ron for filters,Walmart for Rotella T6 Jaso MA2. I think mine is 5W40 but I don't ride in the cold any more nor when it gets too hot so it works just fine. I'm tossing it every 4500 miles anyway as that's what my old SE5 recomends.
 
Hi all,
I’ve been a silent reader of this forum for a few years now and I have found many helpful answers here so I sincerely thank you all for that.

I know it’s bad etiquette to revive an older thread like this but I feel it has the best background. Without a doubt I know BajaRon is the go-to for filter kits (and everything else, because he’s like the candy store of Spyder stuff and he provides valuable insight on almost every thread) but for my 2008 SE5 it appears I can go HiFlo or K&N. Any recommendations there?

And as far as oil I have been using XPS full syn 5w-40 4T (which appears to be JASO MA2). Being in Charleston, SC, we have some bipolar weather here and this professional bug squasher is my daily driver to work (hopefully I don’t catch hate for that, but the parking situation is amazing, since I get to park with the two wheeled weirdos next to the building which means I don’t have to to take a shuttle from offsite parking with the rest of the four wheeled freaks; plus nothing helps you connect better with that pothole magnet than riding it every single day rain or shine). Temps in the highs 100s and lows in the teens are common every year. Is best practice still 10w-40 as Ron suggested back in ‘23? I will say I am very good about letting it idle for few minutes on cold days.

Ps: Ron, if you see thi,s I am trying to make some time for me to trailer my Spyder up there so you can help me with some much needed heavy maintenance and upgrades. As you know, most stealerships/mechanics aren’t willing to touch this ancient transformer looking thing with a 10 ft pole. Trying to plan a dual purpose trip and maybe take my girlfriend to Asheville for a long weekend.

Pss: I’m not sure who to give credit to for the joke about a Spyder being a great bug squasher and bad pothole dodger, but I remember belly laughing after seeing that in someone’s signature on one of these forums and I’ve tried telling it before, but it doesn’t click with most people outside this wonderful group.

Thanks in advance for everyone’s thoughts and I hope you’re having a good week.

Thanks,
Mark
 
Welcome to posting @AeroEngineer18 ;)

There's nothing in the way of 'bad etiquette' to posting in an older thread IF you're adding to the knowledge/experience base &/or carrying on in the same discussion; in fact, it's generally preferred to continue an existing thread on the subject over starting yet another bloody thread on exactly the same subject, like does happen so often with oil threads!! 😖 And please, don't ever go doing some ancient thread archaeology only to post up only to say something like 'interesting', or worse, 'following' - in a thread that was last posted in years ago!! 😣

Basically, Please DO always search first to see if there's an existing thread on any given subject (and there's not really all that much about Spyders which hasn't been at least been touched upon since the Forum started back when the 2008 GS's first hit the streets! ;)) and if you are going to continue posting in an existing discussion thread, do check the date the original post started the thread AND the dates of the last few posts and when those posters last visited the Forum in any thread before you add a reply, so that you're at least aware that you're not asking a pressing question of people who haven't been here for maybe 15+ or so years, or even maybe 2-5 years; and please, if you do decide to start a new thread, then always briefly ASK your question in the new thread title, then flesh it out/add the detail in the text of the threads' first post - that'll not only help you get answers now, but it'll also help all readers, potential respondents, and everyone searching on any subject for years to come! (y)

And all that said, I'm pretty sure he'll pop in to respond himself eventually, but I'm just as sure that, YES, Ron's recommendations in post #5 here re using 10W40 oils still stands. ;)

Ps: I wouldn't worry too much about letting it idle for a few minutes at start up on cold days, just start it up, sort yourself & your gear, and ride on straight away, gently, once started, but do take it easy for a minute or two - that's much better for any engine and gearbox than sitting at idle not moving on start up, especially our V-Twin Rotax engines, and it's also better for fuel economy, the drive line, the tires, traction, and basically everything else beside!! Just sitting' at idle for long at any time isn't ever the best thing to do to an engine, altho it might not kill things immediately! :rolleyes:
 
Just read back thru this thread for the fun of it. There is some good basic information here both for VTwins and 1330 3 cylinder. One thing I did notice and it is a very small point. Our Spyders do not have a " crush " washer on the oil drain plugs. They are regular copper flat washers and as such you don't have to tighten them until you " feel ' the crush. Just make sure the surface and the washer has no debris on it to deform it when you install then snug it up. Also if you need\want to you can reuse them, again assuming it is not deformed. Oil changes are not hard, tho a little time consuming. Even if you go to a dealer for changes, you could do it yourself a time of two for the experience and an appreciation for what they charge. You will also get to know your Spyder better.
 
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