Yesterday we went for a short ride [little over a 100 miles] when we got back I checked the oil and no oil on the dipstick.:yikes: Let it idle till the fans came on, shut off and checked oil after about a minute--nothing. Checked it half a dozen times in the nest couple minutes--still nothing. Looked over the motor for any oil residue, no leaks. Looked at the tail pipe for signs of oil burning, just slightly black. Looked at the two tubes under the back of the motor, no oil residue there. Thought I would see just how much oil was in the motor so drained it and got 5 quarts out, so it was full but nothing on the dipstick. Just wondering if anybody has any ideas as to what is sucking the oil out of the cavity where the dipstick is or the oil is not getting to the dipstick. This is a 2016 F3 limited with 12,000 miles. Dealer did the first service and I did it 2000 miles ago. Any ideas?:banghead:
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Where did all my oil go?
- Thread starter Gramp
- Start date
Chupaca
New member
Interesting. ...
It would seem you have the right amount of oil. Originally was 4.7 later changed to 5 Quarts. Now you may have the wrong dipstick or you are not seeing the oil level on the stick. This seems to be a problem and many have opted to use the paper method. Pull the stick lay it on a clean paper towel and see where the mark is. If this is not the case would like to hear back on the why.....:thumbup:
It would seem you have the right amount of oil. Originally was 4.7 later changed to 5 Quarts. Now you may have the wrong dipstick or you are not seeing the oil level on the stick. This seems to be a problem and many have opted to use the paper method. Pull the stick lay it on a clean paper towel and see where the mark is. If this is not the case would like to hear back on the why.....:thumbup:
petegtsv10
Member
It also helps to file small notches in the side of the dipstick or drill very small holes through it.
Dennis in Lodi
Member
Nearly impossible to read
I have the same bike and when I got it broke in I opened up the throttle for the first time. Shortly I smelled oil burning and stopped to discover oil running down my dip stick. Long story short, I read the dip stick several times and finally realized the oil level was ABOVE the reading area and in the metal part. As I revved my bike in the garage I could see oil squirting from under the dip stick cover. I sucked out 3/4 of a quart of oil and read the stick close to a dozen times before I could see it was reading 2/3 in the range area. Bottom line, until I took a high intensity LED light I just couldn't see it. Poor choice of plastic color for reading same colored oil.
So I'm trying to figure out how my brand new bike got delivered with too much oil?
I have the same bike and when I got it broke in I opened up the throttle for the first time. Shortly I smelled oil burning and stopped to discover oil running down my dip stick. Long story short, I read the dip stick several times and finally realized the oil level was ABOVE the reading area and in the metal part. As I revved my bike in the garage I could see oil squirting from under the dip stick cover. I sucked out 3/4 of a quart of oil and read the stick close to a dozen times before I could see it was reading 2/3 in the range area. Bottom line, until I took a high intensity LED light I just couldn't see it. Poor choice of plastic color for reading same colored oil.
So I'm trying to figure out how my brand new bike got delivered with too much oil?
Hey Gramps, you hafta realise that these are Dry-Sump motors and that you MUST follow the correct 'oil check directions' from your glovebox manual (or the one in the frunk)! :shocked:
If you haven't warmed the engine properly, then stopped ryding & waited out the appropriate idle down period, there may well be NO OIL in the remote reservoir, which is where the dipstick goes to let you check the level!! Check the oil level cold, or check the oil immediately on stopping ryding without waiting the idle down period & you are extremely likely to end up with dangerously incorrect oil levels! :gaah:
Others have posted & discussed at length the correct oil-check procedures, including the idle down times etc, so I won't try to recall them & post up again here (my memory might be just a bit pain-meds addled atm!
pps
But I'm sure someone will provide a link eventually! 
If you haven't warmed the engine properly, then stopped ryding & waited out the appropriate idle down period, there may well be NO OIL in the remote reservoir, which is where the dipstick goes to let you check the level!! Check the oil level cold, or check the oil immediately on stopping ryding without waiting the idle down period & you are extremely likely to end up with dangerously incorrect oil levels! :gaah:
Others have posted & discussed at length the correct oil-check procedures, including the idle down times etc, so I won't try to recall them & post up again here (my memory might be just a bit pain-meds addled atm!
pps But I'm sure someone will provide a link eventually! Bob Denman
New member
:agree::agree::agree:
Follow the instructions... nojoke
As far as reading the dipstick: lay it against a clean piece of paper towel, and it'll be easy to see where the oil level on it is... :thumbup:
Follow the instructions... nojoke
As far as reading the dipstick: lay it against a clean piece of paper towel, and it'll be easy to see where the oil level on it is... :thumbup:
Easy Rider
New member
OK, I understand that.
But I'm a bit confused too.
Mine is still on the original oil too; less than 1000 miles.
And when I checked the level cold, it was WAY above the full mark.
This appears to be exactly the OPPOSITE of what the expected result should be of checking it cold.
This makes me a bit nervous. I will be checking further......literally......and visiting a dealer soon.
Wildrice
New member
Dipstick oil level
I don't know why but my 2015 F3's SE6 requires a full 6 quarts of oil to bring the oil to the upper limit on the dipstick. 5 quarts of oil will not touch the dipstick--it's the least of my problems but I understand your concern.
I don't know why but my 2015 F3's SE6 requires a full 6 quarts of oil to bring the oil to the upper limit on the dipstick. 5 quarts of oil will not touch the dipstick--it's the least of my problems but I understand your concern.
Easy Rider
New member
A bit more confused than I originally thought it seems. :banghead:
I was looking at the wrong "marks" on the dipstick. :duh:
I just checked it the "right way" and it came up to "full".
So it appears that if it is near the "add" mark when cold it can't be too far off.
Update...sort of
Thanks for all the responses:clap::clap:I rode 15 miles and checked the oil again. It was fine. With the 5 quarts I put back in the oil is right at the bottom of the "max" lettering on the stick. I will have to keep an eye on this to see if it happens again. I have not run into this in the year and a half we have had the spyder. I get a lot of good info from this site and I appreciate the help. I just got a Perelli rear tire but have not installed as of yet, hope it lasts longer than the Kenda has. Thanks again.
Thanks for all the responses:clap::clap:I rode 15 miles and checked the oil again. It was fine. With the 5 quarts I put back in the oil is right at the bottom of the "max" lettering on the stick. I will have to keep an eye on this to see if it happens again. I have not run into this in the year and a half we have had the spyder. I get a lot of good info from this site and I appreciate the help. I just got a Perelli rear tire but have not installed as of yet, hope it lasts longer than the Kenda has. Thanks again.
TerryTheSpyderRyder
New member
Dry Sump?
The 998 motor is dry-sump. The ACE-1330 is not. It just has a very difficult-to-read dipstick.
Terry
Hey Gramps, you hafta realise that these are Dry-Sump motors and that you MUST follow the correct 'oil check directions' from your glovebox manual (or the one in the frunk)! :shocked:
If you haven't warmed the engine properly, then stopped ryding & waited out the appropriate idle down period, there may well be NO OIL in the remote reservoir, which is where the dipstick goes to let you check the level!! Check the oil level cold, or check the oil immediately on stopping ryding without waiting the idle down period & you are extremely likely to end up with dangerously incorrect oil levels! :gaah:
Others have posted & discussed at length the correct oil-check procedures, including the idle down times etc, so I won't try to recall them & post up again here (my memory might be just a bit pain-meds addled atm!
The 998 motor is dry-sump. The ACE-1330 is not. It just has a very difficult-to-read dipstick.
Terry
Easy Rider
New member
Mighty funny that several similar discussions have occurred on here and you are the ONLY one who has mentioned that.
I think your are absolutely WRONG.
Dudley
New member
How many of you check the oil in your car or truck? The F3 engine is not one to use oil. Over the years on FB I have read so many posts of people checking their oil after they changed it. Did you put the right amount? Then why do you check it? What do you expect to find? Seems like a lot of folks are so leery of the Spyder, they are afraid to ride it. Enjoy it, folks. I have ridden 150,000 combined on 4 Spyders. The first one, a 2008 GS SE5, we took a 13,624 mile trip around the country. Replaced the rear tire and never changed the oil until we got back. Used 2 quarts replacement. I am not trying to make fun of anybody here, just trying to encourage you all to ride it and enjoy it. The Spyder is not bullet proof, but it is a very competent machine.
Hypurone
Active member
From a BRP spec sheet:
Rotax 1330 ACESpyder Roadster1,330 cc, 4-stroke, 3 cylinder, 12-valve,electronic fuel injection and electronicthrottle control, DOHC, EFI, hydraulic valveadjustment, intelligent throttle control (iTC)84.0 mm & 80.0 mm84.5 kW at 7,250 rpm130 Nm at 5,000 rpmLiquid cooledDry sump lubricationTransmission options:6-speed manual with reverse (SM6)6-speed semi-automatic with reverse (SE6)
You can find it for yourself on page 8 of this PDF:
https://www.rotax.com/files/project/userdata/downloads/BRP-POWERTRAIN-broschuere-OEM-2015-WEB.pdf
Interesting that I come across this thread today. I was planning to start a new thread with my question, but this thread seems to be addressing it already. I had just been wondering how often most of you check your oil level? That's because the "DO's and DON'Ts listed on this site include a statement that BRP recommends checking the oil level every 300 miles. Does anyone here actually do that?
In my case, I've got about 4500 miles on the F3T since the original 3000 mile checkup (which included an oil change and wasn't done until the 4500 mile mark). I haven't checked the oil since and have had no problems (knock wood). My next service isn't due for about another 3500 miles. Am I being naïve by just "riding it and enjoying it"?
Thanks!
AeroPilot
Member
We check the oil on the 1330 ACE about once a month or every 2000 miles
On the smaller Twin engine (2011 RT we had) we would check it about every 500 miles, always after rolling in with the engine hot.
With the 1330 triples, I know that I put 5 qts in on the last oil change, plus about 8 oz after I run it (SE6 models), and then I am good to check about once a month again after we come in from a ride with the engine hot. Remember to let the engine idle for 5-10 minutes while you get rid of the gear, and get a cold one, and by then the fans have cycled on twice.. the scavenger pumps have the oil all "leveled out".. and you can get your clean paper towel to check an accurate oil level.
Easy Peasy.
On the smaller Twin engine (2011 RT we had) we would check it about every 500 miles, always after rolling in with the engine hot.
With the 1330 triples, I know that I put 5 qts in on the last oil change, plus about 8 oz after I run it (SE6 models), and then I am good to check about once a month again after we come in from a ride with the engine hot. Remember to let the engine idle for 5-10 minutes while you get rid of the gear, and get a cold one, and by then the fans have cycled on twice.. the scavenger pumps have the oil all "leveled out".. and you can get your clean paper towel to check an accurate oil level.
Easy Peasy.
AeroPilot
Member
New recommendations since 16 call for 5 qts for the F3 SE6
I am not sure of the date for the new amounts recommended, but the regular oil change with filter only calls for 5 qts for the SE6. Page 100 in the 2016 F3 manual
Some like it higher, and it assumes you got All of the old oil out - there is always a few ounces left in nooks and crannies like the recess in the filter case etc. I get a reading up to the M in Max on the stick when following BRPs recs. YMMV
You can get a digital copy of the manual for your machine at http://www.operatorsguides.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E&s1=c9024e68-d93c-4bf5-ba37-384ffc8d07ba but I think all the 1330 ACEs are the same.
When I change the HCM filter (due at 28,000 mi) I'll add the extra 7 oz. (5.2 Qt)
I am not sure of the date for the new amounts recommended, but the regular oil change with filter only calls for 5 qts for the SE6. Page 100 in the 2016 F3 manual
Some like it higher, and it assumes you got All of the old oil out - there is always a few ounces left in nooks and crannies like the recess in the filter case etc. I get a reading up to the M in Max on the stick when following BRPs recs. YMMV
You can get a digital copy of the manual for your machine at http://www.operatorsguides.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E&s1=c9024e68-d93c-4bf5-ba37-384ffc8d07ba but I think all the 1330 ACEs are the same.
When I change the HCM filter (due at 28,000 mi) I'll add the extra 7 oz. (5.2 Qt)
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