When is BRP going to solve the faulty Throttle Bodies?

[boborgera]

If running RPM's too low cause the TB to malfunction, why don't they recompute the computers on SE models so that they downshift when it gets "too low"?????

See post # 16.

 

[spyderdiva]

While now it is another issue they say that if you have the Throttle open even a hair when you come to a stop that will cause it not to down shift. After the throttle body issues I was on the way back to the dealer and mad a stop in the turning lane to wait for traffic and the bike didn't down shift from 5th gear. It would not even down shift when I tried manually. I finally got it to go into 3rd and when I open the throttle it finally dropped to first gear. That tells me the throttle wasn't open and it should of down shifted on its own.

 

[Bob Denman]

The throttle body on my 2010 was replaced under warranty and you could definitely feel a difference in moving the throttle butterflies between the two. The new one was much smoother than the old one.

Cotton

A clarification might be needed here.
"moving the throttle butterflies" You must be talking about having the unit in your hand and manually flipping them;right?
The RTs use a throttle by wire system so twisting the loud grip would prove nothing... Your right wrist tells the computer what it wants and the computer tells a servo how far to open up things up...

 

[bikeguy]

A clarification might be needed here.
"moving the throttle butterflies" You must be talking about having the unit in your hand and manually flipping them;right?
The RTs use a throttle by wire system so twisting the loud grip would prove nothing... Your right wrist tells the computer what it wants and the computer tells a servo how far to open up things up...

Yes, both the old and the new throttle bodies were on the workbench and I manually moved the butterflies on each. I didn't make that clear in my other post.

Cotton

 

[Bob Denman]

I kind of figured that... but it never hurts to ask! :thumbup:

 

[StanProff]

This is not a recall so they won't change it just because. If you have a TB failure then you'll get a new TB with the new bushings.

Lamont, I have a 2010 with almost 9000 miles on it now. up to now no problems at all. I've been cross country and back loaded with trailer etc. Getting ready to head to the outer banks next week. Should I be concerned about this TB issue? what is the % of 2010 models that have the TB problem? I know these are hard questions to ponder on but what makes one fail and another one not if the components are the same, I really hate wondering if something is going to happen or not when I'm out an about. Maybe I shouldn't read these posts then I wouldn't be afraid to head out somewhere ray: If there is good ones and bad maybe i got one of the good ones. The set up and service seems to be "spot on" from East Tenn. ATV, maybe that makes a difference overall. I guess my next question is do we have a preventive measure that can be done to the TB's? You mentioned the RPM's, I don't baby it and have always run in the upper range when shifting etc.

Thanks for your comments, I respect your experience and knowledge with the Spyders (as I am sure everyone on this forum does)!

 

[Lamonster]

Lamont, I have a 2010 with almost 9000 miles on it now. up to now no problems at all. I've been cross country and back loaded with trailer etc. Getting ready to head to the outer banks next week. Should I be concerned about this TB issue? what is the % of 2010 models that have the TB problem? I know these are hard questions to ponder on but what makes one fail and another one not if the components are the same, I really hate wondering if something is going to happen or not when I'm out an about. Maybe I shouldn't read these posts then I wouldn't be afraid to head out somewhere ray: If there is good ones and bad maybe i got one of the good ones. The set up and service seems to be "spot on" from East Tenn. ATV, maybe that makes a difference overall. I guess my next question is do we have a preventive measure that can be done to the TB's? You mentioned the RPM's, I don't baby it and have always run in the upper range when shifting etc.

Thanks for your comments, I respect your experience and knowledge with the Spyders (as I am sure everyone on this forum does)!

Call me 552-0728

 

[bikeguy]

Maybe I shouldn't read these posts then I wouldn't be afraid to head out somewhere ray: If there is good ones and bad maybe i got one of the good ones.

Nope, always best to know all you can about a situation. I expect that you have called Lamont and he has told you all you need to know about the problem by now but let me tell you what happened with mine and maybe it will give you a little more confidence about taking a long trip.

Mine had roughly 19,000 - 20,000 miles when I first encountered the problem (didn't record the mileage so I'm not exactly sure but in this range). We stopped in Muleshoe, Texas (there really is such a place) for gas on our way to Taos, NM. When I started it after filling up, it was idling at 2100 - 2200 RPM rather than the normal 1400 and when I tried to move it, had very little power. Note that it was not in limp mode, just had no power. From personal experience and reading Spyderlovers, I knew 3 ways to clear a limp mode and decided to try them even though it wasn't actually in limp mode.

The first method was just to kill the engine, remove the key and walk away from the bike, then come back, reinsert the key, and start it. This didn't work. The second way had to do with some heat related problems that would clear a limp mode just by riding a little ways and circulating enough air to cool a sensor. Being very careful with the clutch, I managed to get it moving and rode a couple of blocks. This also failed. The third way was to kill the engine, turn the key on and off 4 or 5 times, then start the engine. This method worked. I thought about turning around and going home but I decided to go on to New Mexico and see what happened. During a 6 day trip when we rode maybe 2,500 miles altogether, the same problem occurred maybe 20 - 25 times always on hot starts, never on cold starts. Turning the key on and off 4 or 5 times never failed to cure the problem. I tried 3 times once and it didn't fix it so went back to 5 times. Since the on and off method worked, I didn't worry about it and, in fact, was never concerned about being stranded somewhere.

As far as what was happening, it seemed like the throttle butterflies were stuck partially open causing the fast idle but the ECU was still injecting fuel at a lesser rate causing a lean condition, thus no power. When I finally remembered to check for trouble codes, it showed a P1614 code which indicates a throttle body problem. Since there is no throttle cable, there was no way to unstick the butterflies. That's just a guess on my part, maybe Lamont could comment on it. As far as fixing the problem by turning the key on and off, seems like voodoo to me. Again, my guess is that either the on and off unstuck the butterflies or fooled the computer into re-booting and cured the problem. Again, maybe Lamont has an answer.

Finally, I wouldn't be afraid to go anywhere if I were you. In the first place, it's likely that you will never have the problem. If you do, turning the key on and off will probably solve it until you can get the throttle body replaced. Dudley had the same problem with his 2010 RT and fixed it by simply using the kill switch and leaving the ignition on when he stopped for short periods. Over time, the problem gets worse but I wouldn't be worried to go anywhere until you can get a new throttle body under warranty. I've had no problems at all with mine after installing the new throttle body.

Cotton

 

[Tonga]

Nope, always best to know all you can about a situation. I expect that you have called Lamont and he has told you all you need to know about the problem by now but let me tell you what happened with mine and maybe it will give you a little more confidence about taking a long trip.

Mine had roughly 19,000 - 20,000 miles when I first encountered the problem (didn't record the mileage so I'm not exactly sure but in this range). We stopped in Muleshoe, Texas (there really is such a place) for gas on our way to Taos, NM. When I started it after filling up, it was idling at 2100 - 2200 RPM rather than the normal 1400 and when I tried to move it, had very little power. Note that it was not in limp mode, just had no power. From personal experience and reading Spyderlovers, I knew 3 ways to clear a limp mode and decided to try them even though it wasn't actually in limp mode.

The first method was just to kill the engine, remove the key and walk away from the bike, then come back, reinsert the key, and start it. This didn't work. The second way had to do with some heat related problems that would clear a limp mode just by riding a little ways and circulating enough air to cool a sensor. Being very careful with the clutch, I managed to get it moving and rode a couple of blocks. This also failed. The third way was to kill the engine, turn the key on and off 4 or 5 times, then start the engine. This method worked. I thought about turning around and going home but I decided to go on to New Mexico and see what happened. During a 6 day trip when we rode maybe 2,500 miles altogether, the same problem occurred maybe 20 - 25 times always on hot starts, never on cold starts. Turning the key on and off 4 or 5 times never failed to cure the problem. I tried 3 times once and it didn't fix it so went back to 5 times. Since the on and off method worked, I didn't worry about it and, in fact, was never concerned about being stranded somewhere.

As far as what was happening, it seemed like the throttle butterflies were stuck partially open causing the fast idle but the ECU was still injecting fuel at a lesser rate causing a lean condition, thus no power. When I finally remembered to check for trouble codes, it showed a P1614 code which indicates a throttle body problem. Since there is no throttle cable, there was no way to unstick the butterflies. That's just a guess on my part, maybe Lamont could comment on it. As far as fixing the problem by turning the key on and off, seems like voodoo to me. Again, my guess is that either the on and off unstuck the butterflies or fooled the computer into re-booting and cured the problem. Again, maybe Lamont has an answer.

Finally, I wouldn't be afraid to go anywhere if I were you. In the first place, it's likely that you will never have the problem. If you do, turning the key on and off will probably solve it until you can get the throttle body replaced. Dudley had the same problem with his 2010 RT and fixed it by simply using the kill switch and leaving the ignition on when he stopped for short periods. Over time, the problem gets worse but I wouldn't be worried to go anywhere until you can get a new throttle body under warranty. I've had no problems at all with mine after installing the new throttle body.

Cotton

Wow, great reading here. My 2010 RT has 13,000 miles with no problems, yet? Here's hoping it doesn't but I won't bank on it! I can understand BRP not replacing TB's until they faulter but us, the consumer, will be stranded on the side of the road so to speak. Never had one fail in any vehicle I have owned. Guess we are stuck waiting for them to break. Glad I bought the extended warranty!!!

 

[bikeguy]

Wow, great reading here. My 2010 RT has 13,000 miles with no problems, yet? Here's hoping it doesn't but I won't bank on it! I can understand BRP not replacing TB's until they faulter but us, the consumer, will be stranded on the side of the road so to speak. Never had one fail in any vehicle I have owned. Guess we are stuck waiting for them to break. Glad I bought the extended warranty!!!

I don't know how many 2010 RT throttle bodies have caused problems. Mine and Dudley's are the only two that I'm personally aware of so, like I said, there's probably a good chance that most will never cause problems. But if they do, I wouldn't worry about being stranded on the side of the road. The problem is just too easy to fix. I rode mine a lot of miles after I was well aware that the problem existed. When I finally took it in to the dealer, they checked a few things, called BRP Tech who approved the warranty replacement, and immediately ordered a throttle body. I continued to ride the RT for another 10 days until the part came in and was replaced.

It's good to have the extended warranty but I wouldn't be surprised if BRP would extend their warranty period for a bit on a known problem like this. Not saying that they would at all, but I will say that they have been very concerned and eager to correct problems that they are aware of.

Cotton

 

[Hobstopper]

I had around 31,000 miles on mine when it started. Happened a several times prior to leaving for Cuba, the first and only thing I did to temporarily cure was to do the key on/off method. The wife and I went ahead and rode to Cuba, MO anyway. It happened more than several times on the way and then again when we arrived at Cuba. Wednesday morning, first official day of Spyderfest, It took several attempts with the key on/off method for it to finally start properly. We rode immediately to Cowtown and got it in the shop for repairs. It has done excellent since and seems to be a little smoother running.
We were never "concerned", it was more of a nuisance. That said, eventually it may have failed completely, but from the first time it happened to the time we got it repaired was probably around 1 to 1.5 months.

 

[dancogan]

I don't know how many 2010 RT throttle bodies have caused problems. Mine and Dudley's are the only two that I'm personally aware of ...

I just picked up mine today after the second replacement. The first time it happened, in Glacier, MT, it simply wouldn't run and no amount of on/off with the ignition key would do anything. It had a 2200 rpm idle and no power. It was in the shop for 5 days, but they fixed it. The second time it happened was also on the way to Spyderfest. The on/off method worked to get me down there, do some riding there, and got me home. Then it went into the shop and I just got it back. The brake pin recall was also done. I just got home so can't comment on how it's running, but it was smooth enough to drive it up the trailer and back it off when I got home. :thumbup: