Wheel stud replacement

[juzzb]

Greetings Spyder Lovers, just brought a new can am service manual and need some help. My goal is to cut cost of repairs by doing it myself. project today is to replace hub wheel stud on a 2012 RS. Trying to avoid removal of upper and lower control arms. Can anyone help out with suggestions? :bowdown:

 

[PMK]

Remove wheel, remove brake caliper without disconnecting hydraulic hose. Slide disc off hub. Drive out old stud, insert new stud and draw in with a washer stack and the nut.

 

[JayBros]

If you clean the hole you removed the stud from you may be able to insert a new stud, PN 250300024, in the same groves the original splines cut.

 

[Freddy]

.......but if you drive the old stud out as suggested above, without sufficient/adequate support behind the hub flange to counteract the hammer blows, you risk damaging a range of components in the suspension & steering.

OR if at first a hammer doesn't fix it, get a bigger one. :read:

 

[2dogs]

Thanks Freddy, i was going to mention that. Would this item work better than a hammer?

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7315A-Universal-Tie-Remover/dp/B000F5LJ3M

 

[Peter Aawen]

You'd need to check, 2dogs, but that tie rod end remover might not have enough reach to get the screw/pusher directly over the stud with the support in place on the other side.... :dontknow:

If you're gonna be buying a tool, you might try something more along the lines of a Universal Ball Joint/tie rod end Remover. I have an 'adjustable reach' version of those, which gives me plenty of reach to get the backing/spreader plate behind the hub & still lets the pushing end of the lever reach the top of the stud to press it in - and the longer arms mean the leverage is significantly greater, so there's very rarely any call for a BFH!! :lecturef_smilie:

Good Luck! :thumbup:

 

[2dogs]

Correct Peter. I wanted to get juzzb away from the hammer idea.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Correct Peter. I wanted to get juzzb away from the hammer idea.

:thumbup: Good idea! :2thumbs:

 

[Bfromla]

Or (more noise, less chance of damage)good air hammer, careful to not mushroom the stud when removing it. Hardened steel should not be a problem but can happen:gaah:

 

[Freddy]

..........and if it does, get a bigger hammer. :bdh:

 

[Peter Aawen]

..........and if it does, get a bigger hammer. :bdh:

Now c'mon Freddy, you KNOW the propper technical term for the bold bit above, why not use it?! :dontknow: It's just a BFH hyea: Altho I must admit that occasionally, I have seen it referred to as an FBH instead!?! :roflblack: Either way.... :2thumbs:

 

[PW2013STL]

This is what you need.

https://www.otctools.com/products/wheel-stud-service-kit

 

[PMK]

You guys are a tough crowd.

I did forget though that this is the forum of stripped bolt heads and snapped off fasteners and drain plugs.

My totally bad for even suggesting to drive out a wheel stud without 17 pounds of back side support to counteract any driving force. You guys and girls devise some of the most complicated overthinking for each task involved on a Spyder.

Long before destroying a special tool, far easier to remove the entire hub if needed, then just pay a shop to press out the old and press in the new stud while fully supporting the hub in specially machined support blocks to verify alignment on insertion is accurate to within .001”.

If a dab of common sense is used in some of these replies, most would realize that often wheel studs do not require a great amount of effort or force to remove. The idea that this task will ruin steering or suspension items and be more extreme forces than actually riding the machine does not give confidence that the front suspension is very strong or roadworthy.

Since the sky is falling, the only acceptable way to remove and replace a wheel stud is to remove the cotter key, loosen and unwind the stub axle retaining nut. Using any special tools noted in the oem factory service manual, remove the entire wheel hub from the upright. Do not replace the individual wheel stud, but rather replace the entire hub assembly complete. Then using any special tools required by the oem factory service manual, reinstall the new hub assembly. Torque correctly with a calibrated torque wrench, and properly install any safety retention items.

I would truly enjoy watching you guys fix a broken toilet, while a line forms, with folks standing waiting with legs crossed and farts squeezing out as you overthink the simplest task at each step to make the toilet work.

 

[PMK]

This is what you need.

https://www.otctools.com/products/wheel-stud-service-kit

You do know that tool is for working on studs for large trucks and heavy equipment. Watch the video. This exact tool came up in a Facebook feed months ago. The tool alone is almost 15 pounds and the removal collars are the size of the guys hand. Wrong tool for the task. Sorry.

 

[Freddy]

Good reply PMK - top marks. Others here, however, don't have the knowledge and experience of folks like you, as can be seen in some other topics, and therefore cannot 'fill in the gaps' in your early post and consequently end up in tears. :cheers:

 

[PMK]

You'd need to check, 2dogs, but that tie rod end remover might not have enough reach to get the screw/pusher directly over the stud with the support in place on the other side.... :dontknow:

If you're gonna be buying a tool, you might try something more along the lines of a Universal Ball Joint/tie rod end Remover. I have an 'adjustable reach' version of those, which gives me plenty of reach to get the backing/spreader plate behind the hub & still lets the pushing end of the lever reach the top of the stud to press it in - and the longer arms mean the leverage is significantly greater, so there's very rarely any call for a BFH!! :lecturef_smilie:

Good Luck! :thumbup:

Be extreme, use a large C clamp and socket. Worse case, with pressure applied by the C clamp, use a SFH and gently tap the C clamp screw end.

 

[PMK]

Good reply PMK - top marks. Others here, however, don't have the knowledge and experience of folks like you, as can be seen in some other topics, and therefore cannot 'fill in the gaps' in your early post and consequently end up in tears. :cheers:

Thanks for the vote of confidence. Your reply got me recalling a previous attempted helping a Spyder owner. Was in regards to bleeding brakes. A woman owned the Spyder. Her boyfriend or husband supposedly had every tool ever made and is a great mechanic.

This was bleeding brakes on the front of the Spyder. In simplest words, I explained to pump the brakes, hold pressure then open the bleeder screw, and capture the old fluid using a hose on the bleeder screw and place the other end in a jar. Close the bleeder prior to raising the brake pedal.

The genius master techs, insisted the bleeder was the brake hose attachment point on the caliper. So they attempted to bleed brakes by disconnecting the brake hose completely. They failed miserably.

Unfortunately, the horror stories posted here nowadays mimic that brake bleeding saga.

Suffice to say, I no longer discuss brake bleeding process with owners. This place is all about tire pressure, what tires and what oil...

 

[Stogeylink]

Holy crap....haven't laughed like this in a while.....:roflblack:

 

[Stogeylink]

Thanks for the vote of confidence. Your reply got me recalling a previous attempted helping a Spyder owner. Was in regards to bleeding brakes. A woman owned the Spyder. Her boyfriend or husband supposedly had every tool ever made and is a great mechanic.

This was bleeding brakes on the front of the Spyder. In simplest words, I explained to pump the brakes, hold pressure then open the bleeder screw, and capture the old fluid using a hose on the bleeder screw and place the other end in a jar. Close the bleeder prior to raising the brake pedal.

The genius master techs, insisted the bleeder was the brake hose attachment point on the caliper. So they attempted to bleed brakes by disconnecting the brake hose completely. They failed miserably.

Unfortunately, the horror stories posted here nowadays mimic that brake bleeding saga.

Suffice to say, I no longer discuss brake bleeding process with owners. This place is all about tire pressure, what tires and what oil...

PMK you are the man. Keep trying to impart the wisdom and let whoever can, soak in the knowledge. Just as an aside, how do you feel about speed bleeders? I was thinking about changing out my fittings with them before doing my next brake job. I was surprised as I had never heard of them but looking on the site, they make perfect sense as to the awesome thing that they do. The only drawback I can see is if you have trash in the lines, it could stick to the seat and not let the ball seat and let air back in the lines. Small chance of it happening but, you never know. I do tend to overthink these things sometimes.

Thanks for your input,

Gary / Stogeylink