• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

What's the one thing you think is Useless Junk on your Spyder?

I just now saw this discussion about the timed turn signal and was wondering if anyone else had an issue with it. I agree 30 seconds is WAY too long. Even at 30mph that's a quarter mile; in a lot of cities that's 4 blocks where people might think you are turning (right) and pull out in front of you. There's a liability issue right there that BRP needs to address.
I wonder if that’s something a tech could change thru Buds?
 
My 2020 F3L most dangerous move was adjusting cruise control, without looking down, and hitting Stop at freeway speed. Quite a heart starter, easily fixed by moving the useless Stop button to somewhere safer.
The radio with its multiple controls is an easy delete for me.
 
Hello BRP, anyone at corporate reading this forum thread? Of course not. Not picking on BRP, other motorcycle brands have the same problems.
 
On 2021 RT Limited I would have been happy without:

<snip>
9. Why doesn't the reverse button not just select reverse, why do you have to select the downshift and the reverse button. Seems redundant and overly complex.
The reverse button is a safety switch, not a transmission shifter. It's designed to prevent accidentally hitting reverse, by requiring TWO separate actions.

The concept is similar to software maintenance procedures that require TWO actions to DELETE a file... it gives you the chance to avert an unrecoverable keying error.

I agree that it's redundant on the Spyder though. It already requires brake pedal depression, and I presume the computer also checks that all wheel motion is stopped. If so, that's two safeties already, making a third one gross overkill.
 
EXCEPT let's say you're in a line of stopped traffic, and you stopped your engine until the delay is over. The flagman says GO, so you restart your engine. This puts your transmission in neutral, and you must then shift to proceed: Suppose you absent-mindedly pulled the down-shift paddle instead of pushing the up-shift paddle, and cracked the throttle. What would happen? BAM, you back into someone behind you instead of proceeding forward! Well, with that safety button, this can't happen... so the guys designing this stuff really are watching out for us!
 
I think it should work as follows:

1. If you start the machine it starts in neutral. Brakes must be applied to start and vehicle must be stationary.
2. If you select up shift from neutral it goes into 1st gear. Selecting down shift from neutral would remain in neutral. Brakes must be applied and the vehicle must be stationary.
3. To go into reverse, from neutral, press the reverse button. Brakes must be applied to do this and the vehicle must be stationary. Reverse is then selected.
4. To go into reverse, whilst in gear, press the reverse button. Brakes must be applied to do this and the vehicle must be stationary and in first gear only. Reverse is then selected.
5. To go from reverse to a forward gear, up shift will go into first gear, down shift will go into neutral. Brakes must be applied to do this and the vehicle stationary.

This would all be no logical difference from a car and all quite safe. You would not be able select reverse unless the vehicle was stationary with the brakes applied. No need for two awkward actions to be performed simultaneously, all rather more logical I think.
 
I think I see the problem here, you are trying to apply logic to something BRP. :lecturef_smilie: :D

I think the problem here is BRP having to apply logic based on merging the safety legislation of every country they sell to:-)

As evidence the stupidly large indicators they had to fit RS's for the New Zealand market, or the huge back lights for the Australian market. Both just to meet local safety laws.
 
I think it should work as follows:

1. If you start the machine it starts in neutral. Brakes must be applied to start and vehicle must be stationary.
2. If you select up shift from neutral it goes into 1st gear. Selecting down shift from neutral would remain in neutral. Brakes must be applied and the vehicle must be stationary.
3. To go into reverse, from neutral, press the reverse button. Brakes must be applied to do this and the vehicle must be stationary. Reverse is then selected.
4. To go into reverse, whilst in gear, press the reverse button. Brakes must be applied to do this and the vehicle must be stationary and in first gear only. Reverse is then selected.
5. To go from reverse to a forward gear, up shift will go into first gear, down shift will go into neutral. Brakes must be applied to do this and the vehicle stationary.

This would all be no logical difference from a car and all quite safe. You would not be able select reverse unless the vehicle was stationary with the brakes applied. No need for two awkward actions to be performed simultaneously, all rather more logical I think.

I may be wrong here, but that seems to be exactly the way my 2020 RTL shifts. With the addition that if the bike is in gear when you shut it down, you have to apply the brakes to start it and it immediately downshifts into neutral.
Am I missing something ?
 
I may be wrong here, but that seems to be exactly the way my 2020 RTL shifts. With the addition that if the bike is in gear when you shut it down, you have to apply the brakes to start it and it immediately downshifts into neutral.
Am I missing something ?

Just that the reverse button is a kind of lockout button rather than a reverse select, so you have to press the button and then downshift to select reverse. I'm suggesting that it would be better from a user perspective if the reverse button was actually a physical reverse selector. It's not a big deal, just something I would like to see dropped as kind of "useless junk" item. A more logical design might have been simpler for the operator, similar in concept to auto car transmissions that are standard in many if not all markets. I would like the user interaction of a fully auto transmission with up and down shift manual overrides using the existing finger and thumb paddles at least on the cruiser oriented RT LTD and Sea-to-Sky.

However, then it wouldn't have the clever pressure regulated and computer controlled clutch system, but just a regular torque converter.

I guess we have to be careful what we wish for though as the existing system does couple the smart hydraulic clutch with all the other computer controlled drive mode inputs. Who knows, perhaps what we have is the best system for the ultimate stability control that the computer system provides us with, at the expense of user operational simplicity.

I think I remember a Jeremy Clarkson Top Gear episode when he asked a McLaren test driver how he wished you could turn all the nanny modes off on their latest and greatest car on the implication it would be better to drive fast. The test driver ,somewhat perplexed, replied, "and why would you want to do that?". He was making the point it wouldn't be easier to drive nor faster for that matter.
 
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I want to say overall I love my 21' RTL Marsala Dark Edition.

BRP connect , I have moved on and replaced you with Zumo XT.

The windshield going down is worthless.

Come on BRP the rear tire should last longer.
 
It requires brake pedal depression to go from neutral to 1st but in the case of going to reverse it does not.
Gosh, I didn't know that until I read this post. So I tried it and by golly you're right! Now, I wonder why that is? I thought it was required to "prevent transmission damage from changing directions while in motion." :dontknow:
 
The windshield going down is worthless.
Boy, I'll say! I run with mine down, EXCEPT for raising it just a tad to prevent breaking that weak bottom mount from road shock. Have they corrected that flaw now? If not, it's a bummer to have to remember to re-raise it every time.
 
Boy, I'll say! I run with mine down, EXCEPT for raising it just a tad to prevent breaking that weak bottom mount from road shock. Have they corrected that flaw now? If not, it's a bummer to have to remember to re-raise it every time.

The windshield goes back to its previous position when restarted.
 
The "flaw" I was talking about is the pot-metal lower windshield support that would break from road-shock after thousands of miles of riding at rock-bottom, most likely after warranty expiration. I wonder if that's been corrected... but as long as engine-start restores prior windshield position, it's not a big deal. Except, as you say, unnecessary wear and tear on the lift mechanism.
 
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