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What Tire pressure should I use in my new auto tires????

Jackhartjr

Active member
Hi folks, 2013 RTL.
Putting the Vredesteins on the front Monday. What Pressure please?
I have General Altimax on rear already. What Pressure for it please!
 
There's a vast amount of info on this subject easily accessed by entering 'tire; + pressure' into the search field towards the top right corner of the page, then clicking the 'Search Titles Only' box in the drop down list below it, before hitting the magnifying glass to submit the search and settling in to do some reading! :lecturef_smilie: That said, I doubt very much you'd need anything more than the widely tested & recommended 18 psi all round, but you should do at least some of the reading anyway & make up your own mind... :cheers:
 
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15 fronts, 16 rear ...Vred's all around. They are a bit firmer than OEM's and I like as comfortable a ride as possible.
 
Did BRP change the later model’s specs? I was working on my RS today and the label on that said 15 Front / 28 Rear.
 
Did BRP change the later model’s specs? I was working on my RS today and the label on that said 15 Front / 28 Rear.

I you have Auto tires ( I have Vredesteins also ) I drive aggressively and like 17 psi front 18 psi rear ..... but if like a more comfortable ride go with 15 front - 17 rear ..... this is for avg. load ... if heavy load add 2-3 lbs. .... Mike :thumbup:
 
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Did BRP change the later model’s specs? I was working on my RS today and the label on that said 15 Front / 28 Rear.

DaniBoy, this is where a great deal of confusion arises. Those 15/28 figures in the manual are for the stock, thinner, OEM Kendas. The aftermarkets that Jack is putting on (Vredestein etc) are a different, sturdier, composition.

The figure of 18 (or so) all round, is what many of those with significant experience in the tyre industry (and who have also done significant personal research on the Kenda vs others, including dissection) have found gives the best outcome for aftermarket tyres on the lightweight Spyder (thus providing an ideal 3psi increase in tyre pressure when heated).

If you wanted to, you could run your aftermarket tyres at 14 with no issues, or the rear at 25. It’s up to you to find what best suits you. I prefer to follow the experience and logic of the likes of Peter A and Mike (BK), and run at 18 all round on my aftermarkets, which has served me very well:thumbup:

However, you need to run the stock Kendas at the 15/28 psi provided in the BRP manual if you want to get any sort of life/performance out of them.

Hope this helps…..:dontknow:

Pete
 
For WIW I run 16psi all three tires on both a 2021 RT and a 2018F3=T. They are wearing smoothly across the tread. Your results may vary.

Al in Kazoo
 
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Folks, I really appreciate all who replied! And am always amazed at the conversation that ensues and helps us to learn more. Later, that's why I asked instead of looking it up!
 
Don't forget now, OEM tires and passenger car tires are quite different in construction and react differently to different PSI's.
 
Don't forget now, OEM tires and passenger car tires are quite different in construction and react differently to different PSI's.

Yes indeed, 2dogs, with one major difference being that you can run the aftermarket car tyres at the mandated BRP pressures (not ideal, but they would work), but you can not run the OEM tyres at anything other than close to the mandated BRP pressures if you want them to perform and last well.

Pete
 
I you have Auto tires ( I have Vredesteins also ) I drive aggressively and like 17 psi front 18 psi rear ..... but if like a more comfortable ride go with 15 front - 17 rear ..... this is for avg. load ... if heavy load add 2-3 lbs. .... Mike :thumbup:

I am really shocked at how low people are setting their rear tire pressure. I've been running 18 front and 28 rear for the last 4.5 years. I have a 2016 F3-T. What is the advantage of running the rear that low? Doesn't it roll to the sidewall in aggressive cornering?
 
I am really shocked at how low people are setting their rear tire pressure. I've been running 18 front and 28 rear for the last 4.5 years. I have a 2016 F3-T. What is the advantage of running the rear that low? Doesn't it roll to the sidewall in aggressive cornering?

Not just me, folks who have gone to AUTO tires have learned ( from me and Peter A. ) that the PSI's we quote for Auto tires have been determined to work best using Science. .... 18 & 28 are what you NEED for Kenda tires ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
Not just me, folks who have gone to AUTO tires have learned ( from me and Peter A. ) that the PSI's we quote for Auto tires have been determined to work best using Science. .... 18 & 28 are what you NEED for Kenda tires ..... Mike :thumbup:
Well with that in mind, I guess I've been overinflating my Yokohama rear tire for the last 13k miles. doh!
 
Usually when u over inflate a tire, the center will wear faster. When u under inflate the sides of the tire will wear faster.
 
I am really shocked at how low people are setting their rear tire pressure. I've been running 18 front and 28 rear for the last 4.5 years. I have a 2016 F3-T. What is the advantage of running the rear that low? Doesn't it roll to the sidewall in aggressive cornering?

And THAT's why the traction (& tread life) on your Yokohama Advan Fleva v701 205/55 R15 has been so poor, as you've mentioned elsewhere! The Yoko was designed with the capability to carry a car weighing in at over twice the weight of your Spyder's rear end when run @ 28psi, so with half the weight on it, at 28 psi the Yoko was grossly over-inflated, giving you the wear pattern you've shown us; it would never get its tread up to operating temperature (which effectively requires about a 3-4 psi increase in pressure from cold after an hour's riding & you would've had very little pressure increase at all, if any!) so it'd never provide its best possible traction; it would've given you a much harsher ride; it would've been far more rigid than ideal to keep the tread firmly in contact with the road all the time; it would've exposed your tire to excessive wear (particularly in the middle of the tread, only due to over-inflation rather than 'throwing-out' like the OEM Kendas); and the list goes on!

It's the air (& pressure) inside the tire that carries the load on it, and your Spyder is a much lighter load/weight than that of the cars that need 28 psi in that Yoko to carry their weight, so you need less pressure in it to carry the load - and by over-inflating it for the load the way you did may well have given you a very direct & precise feel with little sidewall roll, but Radial Tires are DESIGNED to have a fair degree of sidewall roll in order to keep their tread surface firmly in contact with the road surface.... that's the big difference between radial & cross-ply tires & how come radials improved ride & handling while significantly increasing traction - only your radial Yoko wouldn't have been able to keep its tread firmly in contact with the road surface, cos the sidewalls that've been made strong enough to carry a heavier load couldn't flex enough at that pressure so it would've forced then to 'lean' rather than flex & you would've been peeling the inside edge of the tread up so that you were running around the corners on the edge of the tread (& probably wearing the tread shoulders 'round' too! ;) ) So yeah, you might find the ride different once you start running your rear tire at a pressure 'more appropriate for the lighter load', but by running the Yoko at a 'more appropriate for the load' pressure of 18 psi, the Yoko should be able to perform EXACTLY the way it's designed to, instead of riding & gripping the road like a brick in the manner it would've at 28 psi under a Spyder! :yikes:

But I really don't want to type all the rest of this out again - there's a heap of info already on the Forum about this, it'd pay you to do a bit of searching & spend some time reading it; and reading the reports by many on what must by now add up to literally millions of miles successfully run by the collected members on these 'more appropriate for the lighter load' lower pressures - Go on, you know you want to, and you might learn something too?! :thumbup:
 
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And THAT's why the traction (& tread life) on your Yokohama Advan Fleva v701 205/55 R15 has been so poor, as you've mentioned elsewhere! The Yoko was designed with the capability to carry a car weighing in at over twice the weight of your Spyder's rear end when run @ 28psi, so with half the weight on it, at 28 psi the Yoko was grossly over-inflated, giving you the wear pattern you've shown us; it would never get its tread up to operating temperature (which effectively requires about a 3-4 psi increase in pressure from cold after an hour's riding & you would've had very little pressure increase at all, if any!) so it'd never provide its best possible traction; it would've given you a much harsher ride; it would've been far more rigid than ideal to keep the tread firmly in contact with the road all the time; it would've exposed your tire to excessive wear (particularly in the middle of the tread, only due to over-inflation rather than 'throwing-out' like the OEM Kendas); and the list goes on!

It's the air (& pressure) inside the tire that carries the load on it, and your Spyder is a much lighter load/weight than that of the cars that need 28 psi in that Yoko to carry their weight, so you need less pressure in it to carry the load - and by over-inflating it for the load the way you did may well have given you a very direct & precise feel with little sidewall roll, but Radial Tires are DESIGNED to have a fair degree of sidewall roll in order to keep their tread surface firmly in contact with the road surface.... that's the big difference between radial & cross-ply tires & how come radials improved ride & handling while significantly increasing traction - only your radial Yoko wouldn't have been able to keep its tread firmly in contact with the road surface, cos the sidewalls that've been made strong enough to carry a heavier load couldn't flex enough at that pressure so it would've forced then to 'lean' rather than flex & you would've been peeling the inside edge of the tread up so that you were running around the corners on the edge of the tread (& probably wearing the tread shoulders 'round' too! ;) ) So yeah, you might find the ride different once you start running your rear tire at a pressure 'more appropriate for the lighter load', but by running the Yoko at a 'more appropriate for the load' pressure of 18 psi, the Yoko should be able to perform EXACTLY the way it's designed to, instead of riding & gripping the road like a brick in the manner it would've at 28 psi under a Spyder! :yikes:

But I really don't want to type all the rest of this out again - there's a heap of info already on the Forum about this, it'd pay you to do a bit of searching & spend some time reading it; and reading the reports by many on what must by now add up to literally millions of miles successfully run by the collected members on these 'more appropriate for the lighter load' lower pressures - Go on, you know you want to, and you might learn something too?! :thumbup:

How times have changed. When I was researching this 3.5 years ago, it seemed common and agreed that a 28psi rear was okay and preferred. Frankly, after I got the new tires I fell off the forums and have only looked on rare occasions. As I am doing new research for a new tire, I am finding exactly what you said above to be true and that less traction and obvious center tire wear resulted from my over-inflation. (Notice I have been just responding to threads I was reading and didn't actually post a new thread about tires :) ) At this point, I'll pick a new rear and work on having it inflated properly. I am leaning to the Vreds just because my fronts have been great. I am wondering if I would notice any handling difference from a Vred at 205/60 to a General or Kuhmo 215/60 provided they are properly inflated this time.
 
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