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What Tire pressure should I use in my new auto tires????

How times have changed. When I was researching this 3.5 years ago, it seemed common and agreed that a 28psi rear was okay and preferred. Frankly, after I got the new tires I fell off the forums and have only looked on rare occasions. As I am doing new research for a new tire, I am finding exactly what you said above to be true and that less traction and obvious center tire wear resulted from my over-inflation. (Notice I have been just responding to threads I was reading and didn't actually post a new thread about tires :) ) At this point, I'll pick a new rear and work on having it inflated properly. I am leaning to the Vreds just because my fronts have been great. I am wondering if I would notice any handling difference from a Vred at 205/60 to a General or Kuhmo 215/60 provided they are properly inflated this time.

In reality "common psi's of 28" were for Kenda tires ONLY ...... Auto tires are Very different ....Peter and I have been trying for almost a decade to convince folks as to the Science of proper inflation ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
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In reality " common psi's of 28 )" were for Kenda tires ONLY ...... Auto tires are Very different ....Peter and I have been trying for almost a decade to convince folks as to the Science of proper inflation ..... Mike :thumbup:

I didn't pay enough attention I guess.
 
I don't know what Forums you might've been looking at to have seen a recommendation for running 28 psi in a non-OEM auto tire on the rear of a Spyder, cos AFAIK, THIS Forum's been touting the 'more appropriate lower pressure for lighter loads' thing pretty much ever since about 2010, and certainly since 2013ish?!? :dontknow: We may not have been quite so comfortable saying 16-18psi all round will suit "the majority" of riders back then, but that was really only because back then we hadn't yet seen how minor the differences that result from the range of variables that can go into optimum pressure calculations are across the board - the relatively minor differences in variables in things like the possible loads that our Spyders can carry & the limited range of tires in sizes that actually fit under them have proven over time to make very little difference in the end result, and these days, it's fairly clear that 16-18 psi covers just about all the possible permutations until people/loads/tire sizes/ambient temps etc start getting waaayyy out towards the extremities of the bell-curve! :thumbup:

And when it comes to your tire choices, either we seem to get a whole different lot of Kumhos out here than you lot get over there, or our road surfaces are markedly different, cos (when running at the right pressures ;) ) our Oz Spec Kumhos seem to work pretty well & don't have anywhere near the hydroplane issues some have commented on in your neck of the woods?! (Or possibly it's just another tire pressure issue?? Who knows? :dontknow: ) So bearing that in mind, I reckon it doesn't really matter too much which tire you choose, cos you'll likely be pleasantly surprised at the improved traction PLUS better ride & handling you'll get from any of those tires (when run at the right pressures, of course! ;) ) There again, we don't often see Vredestein tires here Down Under, and our General's aren't easy to get in Spyder compatible sizes; but from what I've seen here about how they each perform over there, out of those you mention, the Vreds would probably be the top choice, the General Altimax next, with the Kumho's third, followed by just about any good quality Grand Touring tire that'll fit. Of course, if you really want to go High Performance, there are other tires that will make your pockets substantially lighter and might add a little improvement in one or more performance aspects; but for my 2 bob's worth, unless you're going into the obscenely expensive specialist performance tires (that are really capable of performing well beyond the Spyder's capabilities anway) there's just not all that much difference! :rolleyes:

When the tire meets the tarmac, just about ANYTHING that's approved to run on a car in your country or mine is most likely going to be quids ahead of the OE Spec Kendas; most of them will outperform the Kendas in pretty much all aspects of tire performance; altho more recently, the stock Kendas have apparently been less prone to the quality issues that plagued them from the beginning and made them the single most limiting & disappointing thing about our Spyders... but only time will tell if that change sticks! In the meantime, if you can find a tire that sounds like it'll do what you want it to, takes your fancy, & actually fits under the fenders even if it's not exactly the same nominal size, then I'd say go for it! :ohyea:

Enjoy! :cheers:
 
I don't know what Forums you might've been looking at to have seen a recommendation for running 28 psi in a non-OEM auto tire on the rear of a Spyder, cos AFAIK, THIS Forum's been touting the 'more appropriate lower pressure for lighter loads' thing pretty much ever since about 2010, and certainly since 2013ish?!? :dontknow: We may not have been quite so comfortable saying 16-18psi all round will suit "the majority" of riders back then, but that was really only because back then we hadn't yet seen how minor the differences that result from the range of variables that can go into optimum pressure calculations are across the board - the relatively minor differences in variables in things like the possible loads that our Spyders can carry & the limited range of tires in sizes that actually fit under them have proven over time to make very little difference in the end result, and these days, it's fairly clear that 16-18 psi covers just about all the possible permutations until people/loads/tire sizes/ambient temps etc start getting waaayyy out towards the extremities of the bell-curve! :thumbup:

And when it comes to your tire choices, either we seem to get a whole different lot of Kumhos out here than you lot get over there, or our road surfaces are markedly different, cos (when running at the right pressures ;) ) our Oz Spec Kumhos seem to work pretty well & don't have anywhere near the hydroplane issues some have commented on in your neck of the woods?! (Or possibly it's just another tire pressure issue?? Who knows? :dontknow: ) So bearing that in mind, I reckon it doesn't really matter too much which tire you choose, cos you'll likely be pleasantly surprised at the improved traction PLUS better ride & handling you'll get from any of those tires (when run at the right pressures, of course! ;) ) There again, we don't often see Vredestein tires here Down Under, and our General's aren't easy to get in Spyder compatible sizes; but from what I've seen here about how they each perform over there, out of those you mention, the Vreds would probably be the top choice, the General Altimax next, with the Kumho's third, followed by just about any good quality Grand Touring tire that'll fit. Of course, if you really want to go High Performance, there are other tires that will make your pockets substantially lighter and might add a little improvement in one or more performance aspects; but for my 2 bob's worth, unless you're going into the obscenely expensive specialist performance tires (that are really capable of performing well beyond the Spyder's capabilities anway) there's just not all that much difference! :rolleyes:

When the tire meets the tarmac, just about ANYTHING that's approved to run on a car in your country or mine is most likely going to be quids ahead of the OE Spec Kendas; most of them will outperform the Kendas in pretty much all aspects of tire performance; altho more recently, the stock Kendas have apparently been less prone to the quality issues that plagued them from the beginning and made them the single most limiting & disappointing thing about our Spyders... but only time will tell if that change sticks! In the meantime, if you can find a tire that sounds like it'll do what you want it to, takes your fancy, & actually fits under the fenders even if it's not exactly the same nominal size, then I'd say go for it! :ohyea:

Enjoy! :cheers:

Let me expand on Peter's comments - at the end of His second paragraph in parenthesis He states ( that are really capable of performing well beyond the Spyder's capabilities anyway ). This is an Absolute fact .... The Bosche VSS will prevent any super sticky tire from performing at it's optimum limit - PERIOD .... I have used " super sticky " extra wide tires on my 14 RT .... and all I achieved was .... the NANNY didn't appreciate it.... Initially the Nanny will Warn you .... and not interfere by applying the brakes or slowing the engine .... However I found the Nanny, REALLY slowed me down when I had the super sticky tires. ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:
 
I didn't pay enough attention I guess.

No, it wasn’t a case of not paying attention, Reacher. So many of those responding do not take the time to see that the thread to which to which they are replying is about aftermarket car tyres, and comment that they are running at 16 and 28. Unfortunately, they are in fact referring to their Kenda tyres, but don’t reference that in their response. That is where a great deal of the confusion arises.

There’s an interesting FB post doing the rounds at the moment where someone is complaining that they only got 5000 miles out of their Kumho (worn down nearly to the wire in the middle)…… others are saying “wow, I got 20,000 and still going”. I asked the OP what pressure he was running, and he didn’t know (which is frightening in itself:hun: ) He said he would have to check the side of the tyre, because that was the pressure the fitter used. I guess that means he was probably running over 40psi, which would explain shorter tyre life:shocked:

Pete
 
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No, it wasn’t a case of not paying attention, Reacher. So many of those responding do not take the time to see that the thread to which to which they are replying is about aftermarket car tyres, and comment that they are running at 16 and 28. Unfortunately, they are in fact referring to their Kenda tyres, but don’t reference that in their response. That is where a great deal of the confusion arises.

There’s an interesting FB post doing the rounds at the moment where someone is complaining that they only got 5000 miles out of their Kumho (worn down nearly to the wire in the middle)…… others are saying “wow, I got 20,000 and still going”. I asked the OP what pressure he was running, and he didn’t know (which is frightening in itself:hun: ) He said he would have to check the side of the tyre, because that was the pressure the fitter used. I guess that means he was probably running over 40psi, which would explain shorter tyre life:shocked:

Pete

:yikes: :gaah: :yikes:

Mind you, if he was running over 40psi under the load of just ONE Spyder instead of THREE, then 5,000 miles is actually pretty good considering! :lecturef_smilie: But the ride!! :helpsmilie: It musta been something horrid! Sorta like riding on an unsprung railway rolling stock uni-cycle!! The pain... The pain...:banghead:

I'd guess his Dentist was a very happy dentist, lotsa work from that bloke, what with all the fillings falling out & the sudden clacking of teeth together every time he hit the shadow of a line painted on the road.... :rolleyes: But it musta been a handful in the wet too, probably only marginally safer'n more stable than in-line roller-skating on dry ice while juggling a half dozen sticks of lit dynamite!! :barf:
 
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Perez, if you noticed, I was the first one that asked the guy what Pressure he was running on the Facebook post. I haven't kept up, however suspected he was running much higher!
I got my Vredesteins on yesterday, will be ryding in the Florida Keys and Everglades at the end of the week, (yes, y'all can hate me now) I will let y'all know the results!
 
Perez, if you noticed, I was the first one that asked the guy what Pressure he was running on the Facebook post. I haven't kept up, however suspected he was running much higher!
I got my Vredesteins on yesterday, will be ryding in the Florida Keys and Everglades at the end of the week, (yes, y'all can hate me now) I will let y'all know the results!

Yes, I did see your question, Jack, and I noticed there was no response, which is why repeated it in more detail. The fact that the OP himself did not know what pressure he was running, and had to “check the tyre” to see, was a sad indictment in itself:gaah: ……and yet, there he was, blaming the tyre.

p.s. I don’t hate you:2thumbs: We run all year round out here, too :spyder:

Pete
 
I got my Vredesteins on yesterday, will be ryding in the Florida Keys and Everglades at the end of the week, (yes, y'all can hate me now) I will let y'all know the results!

p.s. I don’t hate you:2thumbs: We run all year round out here, too :spyder:

Pete

I hate you both :D None of that here in Kansas unless you want to freeze your a** off (which I still do from time to time).
 
Yes, I did see your question, Jack, and I noticed there was no response, which is why repeated it in more detail. The fact that the OP himself did not know what pressure he was running, and had to “check the tyre” to see, was a sad indictment in itself:gaah: ……and yet, there he was, blaming the tyre.
Pete

Just by way of update, the OP on FB just posted that he was indeed running at the sidewall printed pressure on his Kumho. I’m not sure what that would be, but it would have to be 40+ psi. He is one of the few honest enough on FB to admit that he may have made a mistake, which is very refreshing. What a rough, slippery ride that must have been…….He is now heading out to buy a new aftermarket tyre to run at 17-20psi:thumbup:……..
…..just out of interest, would that high a pressure increase or decrease the incidence of aquaplaning? Here is the tyre after 5000 miles -
CFFFC421-50F2-41C2-8B7E-242F53063C86.jpg

Pete
 
.....
…..just out of interest, would that high a pressure increase or decrease the incidence of aquaplaning? Here is the tyre after 5000 miles -
View attachment 201206

Pete

Given that there may be some minor variations in this due to specific road surfaces; generally, running pressures that high would significantly increase the incidence of aquaplaning for sooo many reasons! :shocked:

Briefly (& very basically!) Tread Compounds govern how much a tire grips by getting up to temperature & then being flexible enough to actually form & 'mold themslves' into the microscopic nooks and crannies on the road surface as they roll over it, gripping at both a macro and a micro level and not allowing a great deal of slip; while Tread Patterns work by flexing and gripping the road surface like hundreds of little fingers, at the same time as the tread blocks, channels, & sipes are moving & the gaps are opening and closing as the tread surface is flexed by the carcass of the tire - this is so that the little sipes & channels in the tread can sorta grip in like fingers grabbing onto rocks, and the spaces between the rubber acts like a whole bunch of mini pumps, forcing any water (&/or air!) out from beneath & between the tread blocks.... But when a tire is over inflated, there's a great deal less flex in the carcass & the tread (if there's any at all!) so:

1. the tread compound will never get up to its operating temperature; and
2. the tread pattern itself will be held rigidly & won't flex very much at all (if any!) so it can't act like those little fingers AND the channels & sipes won't work like mini pumps to force water (or air!) out from between the tread & the road surface!!

And there's a whole bunch more too, including things like how much the over-inflated tire will already be skipping/bouncing along the top of the irregularities present in every road surface, both at a macro & a micro level, which will mean that not only is the tire not actually really all that much in contact with the road surface in the first place (certainly less than a tire run at its optimum pressure), but it'll also be bouncing along rising & falling, so creating a gap that's just inviting any recently displaced water to rush in to fill, and continually leaving increased space for even more water/air to get in between the tread & the road; yada; yada; yada... :shocked:

Over-inflation even just a little means less traction & less resistance to aquaplaning; but gross over-inflation by running a tire at or above its Maximum Pressure when it's only carrying something closer to 1/3rd or maybe 1/5th of its Maximum Load is inviting loss of traction on the shadow of a road marking line & aquaplaning if a gnat pisses on the road in fright!! And it's also courting other 'unpleasant' stuff, like lotsa tire slip; catastrophic tire failure if the tire happens to run over a bit of gravel or other road debris; massive tread wear in the only spots that touch the road (cos the runner 'scrubs over' rather than grips the road surface); bloody harsh & awful ride (cos there's no 'shock absorbing' built into the tire & flexing sidewalls - they're just too tight!) and more... :yikes:

Just Sayin' :cheers:
 
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Thanks Peter. I haven’t yet asked him how it performed in the wet, but it will be interesting to find out.

Pete.
 
Hi folks, before I get thrown into a volcano, I used the search feature, didn't come up with anything.
What tire pressure is recommended for car tires, front and rear please?
 
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New guy here, can you tell?

I have a couple of questions about the tire pressures.

Why so low?

I'm about to buy my first Spyder, '23 F3 LTD Special Series and in doing some reading here I found out about the low pressures.

Again, why so low?

My Kawasaki ZG1400 calls for 42psi and I was shocked when I saw the low pressures called for on the Spyder.

Is it just because these things have bicycle tires on them OEM? Do folks put different tires on that call for higher pressures?

Inquiring minds HAVE to know....

In any case, I'm not planning on swapping the tires right away, I'll wear 'em out first and then do the change, maybe...

How many miles are folks getting out of the OEM tires?
 
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The short answer is that they are not running a typical motorcycle tire, even the stock Kenda's.
 
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