BertRemington
New member
Thank you SS.
(1) Changing the rear brake pads requires the rear caliper to be removed which requires the parking brake cable to be disengaged from the caliper in some manner. In no instance should the cable adjustment lock nut be loosened and the adjustment distance changed. Changing the adjustment distance is only required if the cable stretched over time, was replaced or, perhaps, the PBM was replaced. [On a personal note, I replaced the rear caliper (along with new pads) due to the previous owner damaging the piston threads (at 77K miles the front pads were half worn but the rear pads were almost gone) and did not need to adjust the parking brake cable.]
(2) After remounting the caliper, pump the brake pedal until a firm response is obtained and then pump at least 10 more times. You need to remove the slack between the piston and the pads and the rotor and the pads. Only then should you turn on the ignition and operate the parking brake. Otherwise I believe there is the risk of over-rotation in the pulley mechanism.
There isn't much information on the WPM (which is on CANBUS) but I believe it has a torque (ie cable tension) sensor as part of its operating cycle. And this is related to the two P codes.
If the cable adjustment was changed, dig out the Service Manual and follow the procedure for correct adjustment.
From the OBD-II PIDs WikepediaBy the way, Spyder fault codes look like OBD-II codes, but are typically re-assigned to other functions for Spyder specific needs.
The Spyder's PIDs follow the style but not the content of "the standard OBD-II PIDs as defined by SAE J1979." Which is whyThough not mandated, many motorcycles also support OBD-II PIDs.
Simply looking up codes on Google is frequently misleading.
Two items for a successful pad change:So, you had a low fluid level and did a brake job. Then AFTER the brake job, you got those two codes and are wondering if they can be caused by low fluid level. ... However, those two codes have nothing to do with fluid level.
(1) Changing the rear brake pads requires the rear caliper to be removed which requires the parking brake cable to be disengaged from the caliper in some manner. In no instance should the cable adjustment lock nut be loosened and the adjustment distance changed. Changing the adjustment distance is only required if the cable stretched over time, was replaced or, perhaps, the PBM was replaced. [On a personal note, I replaced the rear caliper (along with new pads) due to the previous owner damaging the piston threads (at 77K miles the front pads were half worn but the rear pads were almost gone) and did not need to adjust the parking brake cable.]
(2) After remounting the caliper, pump the brake pedal until a firm response is obtained and then pump at least 10 more times. You need to remove the slack between the piston and the pads and the rotor and the pads. Only then should you turn on the ignition and operate the parking brake. Otherwise I believe there is the risk of over-rotation in the pulley mechanism.
There isn't much information on the WPM (which is on CANBUS) but I believe it has a torque (ie cable tension) sensor as part of its operating cycle. And this is related to the two P codes.
If the cable adjustment was changed, dig out the Service Manual and follow the procedure for correct adjustment.
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