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What the clunk - is it normal for the Ryker to clunk when starting from stop?

gkamer

Sadly passed away, December '23.
Don't you all just love new owners and the 101 questions they have. Starting the ball rolling with 001:

Is it normal for the Ryker to make a clunking noise when starting from a stopped position, for example at a stop light, or when going from forward to reverse?
 
Yes, slack in the drive train due to shaft drive. With the CVT there is no tension on the drive train until rpm reaches 1800. When that happens the slack suddenly engages the rest of the drive train with a clunk. With some practice you will be able to feather the throttle, take up the slack, and ride away without the clunk. Or ==== give her hell, break the rear end loose, and giggle hysterically while the rear tire squeals so loud you cant hear the clunk.

Its normal. And yes, we love new owners; we were all one .
 
Don't you all just love new owners and the 101 questions they have. Starting the ball rolling with 001:

Is it normal for the Ryker to make a clunking noise when starting from a stopped position, for example at a stop light, or when going from forward to reverse?

Greg, I remember when you were asking the same questions :roflblack::roflblack: .....just like I was back in the beginning .... I have more respect for those who ASK before they get into serious trouble ..... than the ones who wait and complain after things go south ..... ride safe - ride happy ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
Greg, I remember when you were asking the same questions :roflblack::roflblack: .....just like I was back in the beginning .... I have more respect for those who ASK before they get into serious trouble ..... than the ones who wait and complain after things go south ..... ride safe - ride happy ..... Mike :thumbup:

Someone once told me the difference between a professional and an armature was a professional knows when to stop. :)

Good night Mike.
 
Don't you all just love new owners and the 101 questions they have. Starting the ball rolling with 001:

Is it normal for the Ryker to make a clunking noise when starting from a stopped position, for example at a stop light, or when going from forward to reverse?

i see your "starting off from stop clunk" and up you one.

is it normal for the cvt to "down shift" when off the gas and decelerating? if i am doing 35 and coast. i slow down with engine braking and the bike feels like it slips for a split second and the cvt down shifts to a lower ratio with a clunk. i have had it "downshift" about 5 or 6 times already from 40 to 5 mph

noobily yours, Dave :)
 
Someone once told me the difference between a professional and an armature was a professional knows when to stop. :)
Not necessarily. I had a machine repair biz for over 4 decades and witnessed the work of "professionals." I saw a lot of ham fisted work that took way too long and cost way too much. And I had to undo it. Professional ONLY MEANS they charge for what they do. Nothing more.
 
It appears that no one responded to Ddorand on something that I experienced today:
Going down a fairly steep downhill today with the throttle closed fully, kept doing what I would call an inexperienced driver changing down gears, a jolt and a clonking noise.
Really annoying as it continued till we came to the bottom of the hill. Seems that happens when you have a situation that the engine should be braking the bike on downhill.
Anyone else experience this, will some miles help reduce that? New 2020 Ryker Rally.
 
i have almost 2k miles on mine and it still does it when ever i slow down to stop. i have made a video and the people that watched said it was normal

Dave
 
i have almost 2k miles on mine and it still does it when ever i slow down to stop. i have made a video and the people that watched said it was normal

Dave
I assume we must call it "The nature of the Beast". it seems this beast is a pretty noisy one. :)
 
getting the upgraded sway bar put on this week. when i dropped it off i talked to the tech about the "down shifting". they are going to look into it and see if anything is going on. it might be normal, but it also may be a sticking weight or some other mechanism malfunction. i will keep this thread posted on what they say.
 
Not necessarily. I had a machine repair biz for over 4 decades and witnessed the work of "professionals." I saw a lot of ham fisted work that took way too long and cost way too much. And I had to undo it. Professional ONLY MEANS they charge for what they do. Nothing more.

A 'Professional' is simply someone who gets paid. Doesn't necessarily guarantee quality work. Doesn't matter what profession or area you are talking about. It always worries me when someone feels the need to tell me how good they are. If I can't figure that out on my own. No amount of sales pitch is going to sway me.
 
alrighty, took my ryker to the dealer to have the swaybar installed. (used brp credit from panels toward part and labor)

they called me today, they were able to replicate it and the service manger used the word harsh to describe the downshifts. he reached out to brp dealer community and the dealers that had seen this problems say bad transmission.
so my dealer has a claim in for a replacement for me. bike is 2 months old 1400 miles and it has done this from day 1

Dave
 
alrighty, took my ryker to the dealer to have the swaybar installed. (used brp credit from panels toward part and labor)

they called me today, they were able to replicate it and the service manger used the word harsh to describe the downshifts. he reached out to brp dealer community and the dealers that had seen this problems say bad transmission.
so my dealer has a claim in for a replacement for me. bike is 2 months old 1400 miles and it has done this from day 1

Dave

Wow, please let us know when you get the bike back if it is taken care of and what the exact issue was. I know you started another threat purely for this issue. If you will not mind I am going to post your quote there also.
 
We will be going on an eight hundred mile trip shortly on the Canam and there was no way I would depart on the bike without knowing what exactly was happening and if a failure was imminent. Obviously it is not q question of any gear change being involved the Ryker has a CVT no gear changes involved.
The situation happens on over run, i.e going down hills with throttle closed and occasionally comping to an abrupt stop.
I took the CVT cover off and took a video of what is happening.
I am not an expert in CVT but the logical conclusion is that either some bikes were shipped with a faulty driven pulley spring or may even be that the specifications are out of line.
What happens is the the sheaves on the driven pulley (the larger one) open and there is a delay in the drive pulley taking up the slack of the belt so you get the jolt and the clunk as the belt gets slightly loose and then the slack is taken up. Watch the video and keep an eye on the belt on the upper pulley and see what happens when the now familiar sound is heard.
I am hoping that in our upcoming journey we will not have too many steep downhill situations requiring closed throttle decent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLu9LA15oBs

And finally no, it is not OK the bike should not behave that way.
 
My 2020 Ryker only makes the standard clunk when first taking off and engaging. It doesn't make any noise when letting off the throttle or slowing down. After seeing your video, its definitely not right. I'm glad we dont have any hills here in Florida. It would be interesting if Can Am saw that video, I wonder what their response would be.
 
We will be going on an eight hundred mile trip shortly on the Canam and there was no way I would depart on the bike without knowing what exactly was happening and if a failure was imminent. Obviously it is not q question of any gear change being involved the Ryker has a CVT no gear changes involved.
The situation happens on over run, i.e going down hills with throttle closed and occasionally comping to an abrupt stop.
I took the CVT cover off and took a video of what is happening.
I am not an expert in CVT but the logical conclusion is that either some bikes were shipped with a faulty driven pulley spring or may even be that the specifications are out of line.
What happens is the the sheaves on the driven pulley (the larger one) open and there is a delay in the drive pulley taking up the slack of the belt so you get the jolt and the clunk as the belt gets slightly loose and then the slack is taken up. Watch the video and keep an eye on the belt on the upper pulley and see what happens when the now familiar sound is heard.
I am hoping that in our upcoming journey we will not have too many steep downhill situations requiring closed throttle decent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pLu9LA15oBs

And finally no, it is not OK the bike should not behave that way.

Something is definitely up there. I am not extremely familiar with the CVT. But there are a number of moving parts, of course. I'd say the centrifugal weights that control pulley diameter are hanging up. It seems to happen near the same RPM all the time. Instead of a smooth transition, as designed, the pulley hangs up until a lower RPM is reached where the springs overcome the friction point. This is when you get a sudden change in pulley diameter, giving you the 'Clunk', which is not how the CVT is supposed to work. With only 1 pulley changing size, the belt gets loose (as in a neutral configuration) until the other pulley suddenly makes the proper adjustment.

I would expect BRP to make the necessary repairs without issue. It may require nothing more than some component changes. Hopefully, they can get this done quickly. I would suspect an out of spec. or machining quality problem.
 
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BajaRon, I am going to do another run keeping my eye on the engine rpm and see. If it happens at a given rpm constantly it would perhaps make sense to assume it is the driver pulley.
 
Alright, I got an update

Brp is now acknowledging that this is an official issue now. My can am service manager called me yesterday with an update.
The brp engineers are studying the transmissions that they have changed. There is an issue with the design like you said.
They want me to wait until they figure it out as the issue isn’t guaranteed to be resolved by a trans change.
They said that the current statistic is a 50% resolution rate from swapping them. 5 of every 10 do it still.

There is no harm being done to anything on the bike by having this happen and it rides perfectly fine. So I am not worried about it just yet

Dave
 
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