What Oil Frequency and Oil Type do you use?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have been using Lamonsters oil change kit with the spectro oil and have been happy with it. But the cost at $120 for the kit is getting too expensive and the BRP XPS Kit is now at $170.

I will just be buying a filter kit from lamonster or Bajaron and getting some Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 from one of the local stores for a whole lot less on the next change. And it is on sale now for 29.99/gal. 67.99/2.5 gallons at advanced auto.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/shell-rotella-t6-5w-40-full-synthetic-heavy-duty-diesel-engine-oil-2.5-gallon-550046215/11574860-P?searchTerm=rotella+t6

Walmart is selling 1 gal 5w/40 full synthetic Rotella T-6 for $23.48 . ..... Mike .....check Tractor Supply they often have Rotella coupons ( 2.5 gal $60.00 )....

 

[Cobwebs]

What about the filter with barely used oil ? Should that be sent to the knackery or given another whirl ? They don't grow on trees you know.:chat:

 

[Rednaxs60]

It has been mentioned that any good oil that is for a wet clutch application and correct weight is good. Budget and personal preference play into this. If you look at various brands in stores, only buy oils that have no friction modifiers. The API donut for an oil that has no friction modifiers looks like this, the lower half is blank. A few years ago, daughter and son-in-law had a BMW X3. Recommended oil change interval, 24,000 Km. Transmission and engine oil levels cannot be checked. Convinced him to go no more than 10,000 Km. Oils cheap, BMW engines are not.

 

[BajaRon]

First off, Ron, I am sorry for you being an X Padre fan. Been there, done that. Lived in SD for 30 yrs. Anyway, I guess I didn't ask my question or statement the correct way. IF the bike is run 1-300 miles WEEKLY- NOT SITTING idiol, using synthetic, what is the harm of going the distance vs annually? I get it that oil is cheap, but that wasn't my question or point.

I actually enjoyed being a Padres fan. It's the politics that has soured me on professional sports. Not a losing record.

If you ride on a regular basis, year around. You'll be fine going with the mileage with most name brand, full synthetic oils. Heating the oil up on a regular basis gets rid of the moisture which is a big component in both rust and corrosion. It makes people feel good to change oil all the time. But unless you do an analysis, you really don't know if it is needed or not. Since most people use the 'Guess' method. It's better to guess on the safe side.

 

[Bangorbob]

Thank you Ron for understanding my question. I thought it was a very simple one. BTW, I quit paying attention to pro sports for the same. Have a great day!

 

[rhino1]

Ron, what weight and exact AMSOIL do u use? Can u post a pic of the bottle. Thanx Rhino

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I'll add to this old thread. Go to https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...-3-years-amp-9500-miles&p=1682047#post1682047 to see the latest oil analysis for my RT.

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

Walmart is selling 1 gal 5w/40 full synthetic Rotella T-6 for $23.48 . ..... Mike .....check Tractor Supply they often have Rotella coupons ( 2.5 gal $60.00 )....

Just picked up some at Walmart for my next change, they have the T6 15w-40 2.5 gallon on sale for $56.00. covers me not only for this oil change but the next one too!

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rotella-T6-Full-Synthetic-15W-40-Diesel-Engine-Motor-Oil-2-5-Gallon/847530443?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=2756&adid=22222222277847530443_117755028669_12420145346&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=501107745824&wl4=pla-294505072980&wl5=9008021&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=847530443&wl13=2756&veh=sem_LIA&gclsrc=ds

 

[BajaRon]

Ron, what weight and exact AMSOIL do u use? Can u post a pic of the bottle. Thanx Rhino

Amsoil MCF 10/40 is what we use and recommend. Some that run in triple digit temps go with the 20/50, which is not a bad idea. In my opinion, the 10/40 is a better viscosity than the 5/40 that BRP recommends. I've detailed why elsewhere so I won't bore everyone again with it. I also feel that a 'Blended' oil is more marketing than it is value.

BRP recommends what they sell. And though they used to sell and recommend their 10/40, they don't have that viscosity anymore.

 

[Deanna777]

This is my first Spyder. I plan to take it to the dealer for it's first 3000 mile checkup. I am wondering what frequency others change their oil and what oil type? I have used full synthetic on my last couple of crusier motorcycles.

Hi kentshaf,

Change the oil in your spyder per the owners manual.

Also, change the oil before you put it into winter storage. The oil can produce combustion by products that can harm your engine during long-term storage. I noticed that you are from Grant MI.

Here is another idea, put fresh gas and stable in the gas tank before you put the spyder into hibernation.

Deanna

 

[Mikey]

And to think this thread started back in 2019!

 

[EdMat]

And to think this thread started back in 2019!

There is no statute of limitations regarding a post reply. :shemademe_smilie:

 

[LongIsland]

This is my first Spyder. I plan to take it to the dealer for it's first 3000 mile checkup. I am wondering what frequency others change their oil and what oil type? I have used full synthetic on my last couple of crusier motorcycles.

At minimum follow the schedule in your owner's manual. Both the type of oil and the oil change frequency schedule is in the owner's manual which can be found on the BRP wepsite. Page 112 starts the maintenance schedule, page 113 has oil change frequency; page 164 provides the oil specification. Ride Safe.

 

[Vincef329]

Exactly the recommended interval, Valvoline 5-40 full synth euro and a brp filter. Also installed Lamonster magnetic plug. Runs and shifts great.

 

[BajaRon]

And to think this thread started back in 2019!

Ah! But the subject matter started at least by the 17th Century BC when the Egyptians used olive oil to lubricate the movement of large stones and other heavy objects. I'm sure they were arguing about which brand and viscosity was best, even back then.

Which just goes to prove that the old saying is true. 'There is nothing new under the sun'.

 

[pegasus1300]

Exactly the recommended interval, Valvoline 5-40 full synth euro and a brp filter. Also installed Lamonster magnetic plug. Runs and shifts great.

I could be wrong but I don't think Euro is the right Valvoline to use. I think you need 4 Stroke Motorcycle oil full synthetic, It comes in 10w 40 or 20w50. The motorcycle oil is wet clutch specific. The Euro is a European car oil and may not work in wet clutches.

 

[Gwolf]

Ah! But the subject matter started at least by the 17th Century BC when the Egyptians used olive oil to lubricate the movement of large stones and other heavy objects. I'm sure they were arguing about which brand and viscosity was best, even back then.

Which just goes to prove that the old saying is true. 'There is nothing new under the sun'.

Method of extracting 10W-40 Olive Oil posted in cartouche on Egyptian Tomb.

 

[K80Shooter]

I could be wrong but I don't think Euro is the right Valvoline to use. I think you need 4 Stroke Motorcycle oil full synthetic, It comes in 10w 40 or 20w50. The motorcycle oil is wet clutch specific. The Euro is a European car oil and my not work in wet clutches.

I just looked at the spec sheet myself. I think "if" it were mine that I would drain it out and replace it with an approved oil.

 

[EdMat]

I just looked at the spec sheet myself. I think "if" it were mine that I would drain it out and replace it with an approved oil.

Yep, no mention of JASO or MA2 on it. That does not mean that it would not meet those standards, but I would be concerned with so many other good choices out there.

 

[carbonation]

I could be wrong but I don't think Euro is the right Valvoline to use. I think you need 4 Stroke Motorcycle oil full synthetic, It comes in 10w 40 or 20w50. The motorcycle oil is wet clutch specific. The Euro is a European car oil and my not work in wet clutches.

Euro style oils typically have better HTHS numbers (high temp/high shear) and high calcium levels for extended drain intervals.
Both of what you want in a common sump/gearbox. Leave it in, it's fine.
Lots of discussion on car vs. MC oils. When you analyze them, many are splitting hairs. The difference between Mobil1 car oil and MC oil is a bit more Z and P, and about 7PPM less moly in the MC oil. Both are, for all practical purposes, interchangeable.Wet clutches slip and glaze because of spring tension in the clutch basket or other mechanical problems, not because of oils.
I just bought a stash of 10w40 Havoline conventional for future changes because those weights are becoming less and less popular with the auto crowd. It was on closeout, and can't beat 2.00 a quart now. The trend is going thinner, there are now some 0w8 offerings for cars. I'm not worried in the least putting a conventional, auto oil in the Spyder for the next season.