What oil are you using for your 1330 engine?? Tips & hints on oil change?

[bikerchris1270]

Drink the Kool-Aid

:agree: ...been using it for many years .... It can be bought for less .....JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:

After reading all the opinions and my research, I’ll drink the Kool-Aid……..I will begin using Rotella 5w-40 in my Spyder 1330.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

After reading all the opinions and my research, I’ll drink the Kool-Aid……..I will begin using Rotella 5w-40 in my Spyder 1330.

Actually using Superior NON-BRP products ..... is NOT drinking the Kool-Aid :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack: ....JMHO ....Mike :thumbup:

 

[Crewless]

2021 Spyder RTL. my last oil change at the dealer was $300 +-. I looked at the parts list used and was shocked what few parts were used.
I decided put this 76 year old body on the floor and change my own oil, like I was still in my youth.


CORRECTED:
IT WAS POINTED OUT TO ME THAT THE OIL I USED WAS NOT FORMULATED WITH JASCO MA2 AS REQUIRED BY BRP.
I DRAINED THIS OIL AND REFILED WITH:
VALVOLINE 10W-40 MOTORCYCLE 4 STROKE FORMULATED WITH "JASO MA2".
THANKS
THANKS FOR THE HEADS UP.

Oil change parts I used
Ref:25 O-Ring 420430115 1.97
Ref:24 O-Ring 420250460 1.97
Ref:26 Metal Gasket Ring 420430623 1.34
Ref:38 OEM Oil Filter 420956744 17.09
**#39 OEM Oil Filter Cover Ass'y Includes Items 39 to 42 Part Number 420210885 if needed
Ref: 40 OEM Oil Filter Gasket #420850482 6.99
#41 OEM O-Ring 420950812 Filter Rod $5.59 if needed
#42 OEM O-Ring 420650927 Filter Rod $5.59 if needed
Total Parts I used= 29.36

https://www.canampartshouse.com/oemparts/a/cam/60229b4d87a86610e0b194d3/rotax-engine-lubrication

 

[Gwolf]

I use Lucas High Performance Motorcycle Oil, Synthetic 20W-50.

It is approved for wet clutch applications. Have also used the Mobil1 4T in the past, but mostly stay with the Lucas Motorcycle Oil.

I don't really think it matters much what brand you use, if it is approved for wet clutch and you are changing it on a regular basis.

Changing the oil is not rocket surgery........ basic hand tools, and automatic transmission funnel.

 

[K80Shooter]

2021 Spyder RTL. my last oil change at the dealer was $300 +-. I looked at the parts list used and was shocked what few parts were used.
I decided put this 76 year old body on the floor and change my own oil, like I was still in my youth. The Total cost of this oil change was $59.33

I use 5w40 Mobil 1, full synthetic.

Oil change parts I used
Ref:25 O-Ring 420430115 1.97
Ref:24 O-Ring 420250460 1.97
Ref:26 Metal Gasket Ring 420430623 1.34
Ref:38 OEM Oil Filter 420956744 17.09
**#39 OEM Oil Filter Cover Ass'y Includes Items 39 to 42 Part Number 420210885 if needed
Ref: 40 OEM Oil Filter Gasket #420850482 6.99
#41 OEM O-Ring 420950812 Filter Rod $5.59 if needed
#42 OEM O-Ring 420650927 Filter Rod $5.59 if needed
Total Parts I used= 29.36
Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 29.97 Walmart.
Total cost of this oil Change = $59.33 + plus about a slow 1hr's work for me.
https://www.canampartshouse.com/oemparts/a/cam/60229b4d87a86610e0b194d3/rotax-engine-lubrication

I looked at the specs and this does not appear to meet the requirements for our engines/transmissions unless I missed something. Check for yourself and good luck. I did not see a JASO classification.

 

[Peacekeeper6]

Here are my tips - https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...6-Mod-Thread&p=1516722&viewfull=1#post1516722

Good luck !!

 

[PJveetwin]

T6 was recommended to me by a good friend who has been a high end auto machinist for some 60 years. Builds and runs racing engines, breaks them down on a regular basis. Also has tore down lots of high mileage engines. I've used it for some 25 years in all my vehicles, 50's and 60's hot rods, new and old cycles. Have had several apart with no lubrication issues. Like the idea of getting a gallon for $25. or so. Cheaper if you buy in the 5 gal. containers. Mine are delivered by Amazon. Always have 10 gallons on hand. I own 18 vehicles, something always needs to be serviced. I only add a zinc additive in a few vehicles that have solid lifters.

 

[bikerbillone]

Right on BlueKnight, nothing wrong with Rotella T6, but to each his own I say.

 

[Deanna777]

I use the following: Valvoline 4-Stroke Full synthetic motorcycle Oil 10w-40.

The oil is formulated for specific needs of high performance 4 stroke motorcycles, including high temp, high RPMS and Wet Clutch systems.

Full synthetic formula for the ultimate protection against wear, deposits,s and corrosion that can decrease engine performance.

Developed with advanced additives to resit oil thickening and maximize horsepower.
Outstanding Wet Clutch protection for maximum power transfer and smooth shifting.

Meets or exceeds JASO MA2.

The above oil is in a grey bottle. I got mine on-line.

I have been using the above oil since 2015. My current spyder is a 2014 RTS-SE6 with the "Ace 1330 Engine".
Deanna




Deanna

 

[Little Blue]

Mobil 1

...I for one have been using Mobil 1 in my Spyder it's entire life. I use the Mobil 1 10w40 Motorcycle oil. Yes it's rated for the Spyder. Just what I use and it costs a little bit more. Quality is my thing.

Your Spyder, so hopefully you use a Quality Oil.
If not, shame on you. That's all I am going to say.

Stay Healthy. ....:thumbup:

 

[slhanks004]

I just did an oil change using Castrol Power 1 5W-40. $52.95 for a case of 6 quarts on Amazon.

 

[Crewless]

Yes you are correct, I looked at the API but didn't check the JASO. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[2dogs]

:bdh: nojoke

 

[Rednaxs60]

Bought our 2014 Spyder RTL some 2 years ago. Looked into the oil requirement. No mention of JASO in the owner's manual or the service manuals. JASO is a good indicator of oil that has no additives and is good for wet clutches and catalytic converters - depending on rating, came out in 1999. Having mentioned this, I look for a good oil, preferably synthetic that is in my price range and has an API donut that has the lower half of the circle blank. Most oils I find, with the exception of Rotella, are a European formula. Have used Rotella as well in my Gold Wings. Any oil that meets the API SN rating and is not energy conserving will do fine.

When I first used Rotella T-6 there was no mention of a JASO standard on the bottle, used the API donut, no energy conserving additives. Thinking that Shell picked up on this, had its oil JASO certified, and the rest is history. Good marketing scheme.

 

[DaniBoy]

If you read your operator's guide and use oil that meet the API Service Code(s) for your engine you aren't going to go wrong. The only way you can know how the oil is performing is to have it analyzed.

As for API service, BRP states in their manual (for my 2010 RS) to NOT use an API classification of SM. They claim it will cause the clutch to slip. How are their clutches different from any other bike clutch? I don’t know. In all my 62 years, I’ve always known that every new API certification supercedes all those before it. The important thing (to my knowledge), is that wet clutches will be just fine if you use a JASO MA/MA2 oil.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

As for API service, BRP states in their manual (for my 2010 RS) to NOT use an API classification of SM. They claim it will cause the clutch to slip. How are their clutches different from any other bike clutch? I don’t know. In all my 62 years, I’ve always known that every new API certification supercedes all those before it. The important thing (to my knowledge), is that wet clutches will be just fine if you use a JASO MA/MA2 oil.

JASO is the Gold standard - period ....... as to SM or SN one is OK for wet clutch assemblies, not all Motorcycles use them ..... hope this info helps ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[BertRemington]

Maybe I missed them but I don't see any posters with oil pressure gauges allowing them to monitor oil viscosity changes over time (ie mileage). BRP and LaMonster have 5psi notch around 3K miles. Motul 7100 15W50 eases down 2psi after 5K miles which was my intended oil change interval anyway. I also note the emphasis on wet clutches, JASO, API as if they make a difference in viscosity loss. I think the viscosity killer is not the engine or the hydraulic clutch but rather the gearbox. And the solution is 5K oil changes.

 

[Gwolf]

Maybe I missed them but I don't see any posters with oil pressure gauges allowing them to monitor oil viscosity changes over time (ie mileage). BRP and LaMonster have 5psi notch around 3K miles. Motul 7100 15W50 eases down 2psi after 5K miles which was my intended oil change interval anyway. I also note the emphasis on wet clutches, JASO, API as if they make a difference in viscosity loss. I think the viscosity killer is not the engine or the hydraulic clutch but rather the gearbox. And the solution is 5K oil changes.

Emphasis on the oil being approved for wet clutches, not really about the viscosity. It is more about being certain that nothing has been added into the oil formula that would have a negative affect on clutch slippage. It is the same concern as the primary oil on most of the Harleys. The clutch is inside the primary case and runs wet. On the Harleys, the primary oil is not open to the engine oil. There has always been some concern about using an oil approved for wet clutches in the primary case. In the Can Am and many of the metric bikes, the engine and gearbox use the same oil. If the oil is not approved for wet clutch application it should not be used on bikes that run a wet clutch, and no additives that claim to decrease friction or do other mechanical magic should ever be added to the oil.

 

[McRuss]

I'm not going to go into which oil to use, there are too many opinions. "I'm using the one I've used in motorcycles for hundreds of thousands of miles with no problems and I'm not going to change!" BUT if you are going to do the first oil change on your NEW Spyder, be warned that the drain plugs are probably overly treated with lock-tight. I had to use a cold chisel and hammer to get the main plug out. The secondary was easier, but both were replaced with Gold Plugs. YMMV.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I'm not going to go into which oil to use, there are too many opinions. "I'm using the one I've used in motorcycles for hundreds of thousands of miles with no problems and I'm not going to change!" BUT if you are going to do the first oil change on your NEW Spyder, be warned that the drain plugs are probably overly treated with lock-tight. I had to use a cold chisel and hammer to get the main plug out. The secondary was easier, but both were replaced with Gold Plugs. YMMV.

I don't think they are "overly treated with Lock-tight" or have "thread locker" on them ..... after hundreds or thousands of Heat/Cool cycles the engine oil on the threads forms a Varnish ..... After putting a socket, hex, or torx tool on/into the oil plug I give it a healthy Tap with a hammer to break the varnish .... this has worked for me for decades ...... Mike :thumbup: