What is this connector? Can I use it for a switched accessory power source?

[RykerUSA]

Please see the attached photo.

 

[Grandpot]

I'm not exactly sure what it is, but it looks like a test plug or connector for BUDS. In any case I would not use it for a power source.

 

[QuasiMotard]

I'm not exactly sure what it is, but it looks like a test plug or connector for BUDS. In any case I would not use it for a power source.

@Grandpot : agreed. Better to wait for the service manual to become available before tinkering with the electrics. Maybe it could be something for the add-on "LED auxiliary light"? https://can-am.brp.com/on-road/shop...s-accessories/lights/led-auxiliary-light.html

I will be modding my Ryker soon, so I plan to figure these things out as well.

--
QM

 

[RykerUSA]

Good advice. I will wait.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

IMHO …. adding a small Fuse block ( see banggood.com for an in-expensive one ) is the way to go ...it will isolate any add-on electrics from the rest of the OEM harness ….. Mike :thumbup:

 

[QuasiMotard]

IMHO …. adding a small Fuse block ( see banggood.com for an in-expensive one ) is the way to go ...it will isolate any add-on electrics from the rest of the OEM harness ….. Mike :thumbup:

Agreed. I use these solid-state power distribution blocks on most of my bikes: http://www.rowe-electronics.com/modules

They are a bit spendy at ~$190.00, but they are bulletproof and stupid-proof (and CAN-bus friendly). The question here would still be: where to cleanly attach to a factory plug/harness (no cutting, splicing, or T-tap nonsense) to get the switched 12V trigger?

--
QM

 

[QuasiMotard]

Agreed. I use these solid-state power distribution blocks on most of my bikes: http://www.rowe-electronics.com/modules

They are a bit spendy at ~$190.00, but they are bulletproof and stupid-proof (and CAN-bus friendly). The question here would still be: where to cleanly attach to a factory plug/harness (no cutting, splicing, or T-tap nonsense) to get the switched 12V trigger?

--
QM

Another important thing to keep in mind about adding all of the farkles and gadgets to the Ryker: Can-Am only rates the Ryker's charging system at "400 watts @ 7000 RPM", per page 139 of the manual. The distribution block that I plan to use (link above) is programmable, so I can reduce the output of any of the power taps to prevent drawing more juice than the charging system can supply. There's nothing like riding with heated gear for an hour or so, just to stop for fuel and find that your battery is too flat to restart the machine. :banghead:

--
QM

 

[WilliamTRyker]

Another important thing to keep in mind about adding all of the farkles and gadgets to the Ryker: Can-Am only rates the Ryker's charging system at "400 watts @ 7000 RPM", per page 139 of the manual... There's nothing like riding with heated gear for an hour or so, just to stop for fuel and find that your battery is too flat to restart the machine.

Right, that's bad. Okay, important safety tip. Thanks, Egon.

 

[Jsmith8695]

That appears to be a BUDS connection for diagnostics.
If you look at the installation instructions from BRP (on their web site)for the auxiliary lighting it will highlight where this unit plugs in. The lights go on as soon as the Ryker is awaken and before the bike is started.
-- jim

 

[QuasiMotard]

Right, that's bad. Okay, important safety tip. Thanks, Egon.

Don't cross the streams... total protonic reversal.

--
QM

 

[QuasiMotard]

IMHO …. adding a small Fuse block ( see banggood.com for an in-expensive one ) is the way to go ...it will isolate any add-on electrics from the rest of the OEM harness ….. Mike :thumbup:

@BLUEKNIGHT911 : another minor, but important issue that I failed to mention about the "inexpensive fuseblock" idea is that they don't "isolate" from the rest of the electrical system, they just provide fused access to the electrical system. If you put something "dirty" anywhere on the +12V power rail that feeds EMI/RFI back into the electrical system, then you can have problems with the ECU or CAN-bus subsystems. A common occurrence is with 12V Bosch relays used for driving lights or horns. If you don't put a diode inline with the coil to block back-flow, the EMI spike when the field collapses (disengages the relay) can back feed into the rest of the system and smoke your ECU. Ask me how I know. :-/

Power distribution blocks like the Rowe PDM60 (linked above) or the Denali PowerHub2 (https://www.twistedthrottle.com/den...ound-block-and-wiring-harness-for-motorcycles) have filtering that prevents any noise or spikes from going backwards into your bike.

Just my $0.02...

--
QM

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

@BLUEKNIGHT911 : another minor, but important issue that I failed to mention about the "inexpensive fuseblock" idea is that they don't "isolate" from the rest of the electrical system, they just provide fused access to the electrical system. If you put something "dirty" anywhere on the +12V power rail that feeds EMI/RFI back into the electrical system, then you can have problems with the ECU or CAN-bus subsystems. A common occurrence is with 12V Bosch relays used for driving lights or horns. If you don't put a diode inline with the coil to block back-flow, the EMI spike when the field collapses (disengages the relay) can back feed into the rest of the system and smoke your ECU. Ask me how I know. :-/

Power distribution blocks like the Rowe PDM60 (linked above) or the Denali PowerHub2 (https://www.twistedthrottle.com/den...ound-block-and-wiring-harness-for-motorcycles) have filtering that prevents any noise or spikes from going backwards into your bike.

Just my $0.02...

--
QM

Interesting - so if I'm understanding your reply …… If I attach a ( normal ) fuse block to my battery ( using very low amp fuses ) something connected to that fuse block can " back-feed " into the Can-Bus or ECU and cause problems...….. Thanks …. Mike :thumbup:

 

[QuasiMotard]

Interesting - so if I'm understanding your reply …… If I attach a ( normal ) fuse block to my battery ( using very low amp fuses ) something connected to that fuse block can " back-feed " into the Can-Bus or ECU and cause problems...….. Thanks …. Mike :thumbup:

Yessir, that's correct. Even a low-amperage fuse doesn't protect against EMI/EMF surges from relay coils, because the surge isn't AMPERAGE, it's VOLTAGE that bites you. Fuses don't blow their "trace wire" until enough amperage flows through them, causing the metal to heat up and melt away, which breaks the continuity. A relay coil field collapse spike can reach hundreds (sometimes thousands) of volts, but at relatively low amperage (think pressure washer not garden hose). Another example would be an every-day static-electric shock... a quick zap that doesn't kill ya, but it sure smarts! Your run-of-the-mill, little blue spark, static zap is in the neighborhood of 20-30K volts! Our bike computers run at 12 volts... that's a ginormous spread in potential energy to deal with. For ECU's loaded full of semiconductors and microprocessors, that little zap is to them what a lightning strike would be to us. No way to absorb/dissipate/divert that extra flow of electrons... time to let the smoke out. Angry pixies everywhere.

Besides the EMI/EMF spike, analog devices like that are RFI-'noisy'. Things like relays, brushed DC motors, on/off power switches, heated gear controllers, etc, etc... all put electrical noise on the 12V electrical bus, and that noise can interfere with computers that run the bike. CAN-bus systems are particularly finicky about that stuff. Now, if you're a Kawasaki KLR or Suzuki DR rider, then your machine is full-analog. No EFI or computers, nearly bomb-proof... no worries then. You could probably hook it up to an out of control wind turbine with bailing wire and duct-tape, and never give it a second thought.

--
QM

 

[Triumphcycleman]

Noooooo that is a direct connector for the ECM.. Look under the left colored body panel. you will find a power source there

 

[QuasiMotard]

...SNIP...

Besides the EMI/EMF spike, analog devices like that are RFI-'noisy'. Things like relays, brushed DC motors, on/off power switches, heated gear controllers, etc, etc... all put electrical noise on the 12V electrical bus, and that noise can interfere with computers that run the bike. CAN-bus systems are particularly finicky about that stuff...

At the risk of giving information overload, I'll add this. I have personally had this problem on two CAN-bus vehicles in the past when using "sophisticated" electronic add-ons... RADAR detectors. The first time was in a BMW M5 where a K-40 was causing error codes and CEL's (check engine lights) to occur, which put the car into limp mode. The second time was with a BMW K1300S where an Escort Solo was causing weird computer glitches in the OBD (onboard display) unit. In both cases, removing the radar detector fixed the problems. In the M5's case, reconfiguring the power connection with a noise choke (toroid core with smoothing capacitors) fixed the problems. In the K1300S situation, I just quit using that detector... it was easier than chasing the gremlins. Maybe BMW's EMI/RFI shielding sucks... dunno. I never seem to have those problems in my old-school, analog 1962 Mercedes Unimog Radio Wagon... strange. :dontknow:

Again, just my $0.02... HTH, YMMV

--
QM

 

[Lamonster]

Please see the attached photo.

That's the plug for hooking up BUDS. I used it this weekend after doing an alignment.