What is the 'proper' method to secure a Spyder on or in a trailer for transport?

[BGetz]

So I’m seeing many posts from owners with their Spyder secured on or in a trailer for transport.
With that being said, I‘m not seeing any consistency with strap placement. I see a lot of owners securing to the lower steering arms. They just don’t seem strong enough. Maybe it’s me, but starts and stops, not to mention rough roads, could cause a problem if the straps are not properly placed.

Can anyone recommend the “proper” method of securing this vehicle?

Thank You...

 

[Snoking1127]

So I’m seeing many posts from owners with their Spyder secured on or in a trailer for transport.
With that being said, I‘m not seeing any consistency with strap placement. I see a lot of owners securing to the lower steering arms. They just don’t seem strong enough. Maybe it’s me, but starts and stops, not to mention rough roads, could cause a problem if the straps are not properly placed.

Can anyone recommend the “proper” method of securing this vehicle?

Thank You…

For long trips (like 1500 miles Az to Wa) I use both belt and suspenders! Let it ride on both it's own suspension and the trailer's suspension. The big worry is that at a sudden stop (AKA a head on event), it does not become a missile aimed at the tow vehicle.


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[Snowbelt Spyder]

So I’m seeing many posts from owners with their Spyder secured on or in a trailer for transport.
With that being said, I‘m not seeing any consistency with strap placement. I see a lot of owners securing to the lower steering arms. They just don’t seem strong enough. Maybe it’s me, but starts and stops, not to mention rough roads, could cause a problem if the straps are not properly placed.

Can anyone recommend the “proper” method of securing this vehicle?

Thank You...

BRP recommendations for how to transport the machine is in your Operator's Guide. The lower control arms are used in order to pull the bike up onto a trailer or flatbed if the machine is incapacitated and can't drive up under its own power. However after that, lock it down using the straps around the wheels as shown in the manual. Let the suspension do its job. There are bound to be variations on a theme based on a particular trailer design, personal preference and opinion, and placement of the trailer's tie downs. Big picture though, you want to arrange the straps to create opposing but equal forces both left and right, as well as front to rear. The bike then can't move in any direction. I've been from Ohio to Yellowstone this way, among other places, and the bike never moved an inch, nor did the BRP method ever damage anything.

 

[racoon]

Can anyone recommend the “proper” method of securing this vehicle?

I use a Stinger CAN-AM Trailer when I need to tow my Spyder somewhere.

Stinger Trailer For Can-Am Spyder RT/F3/Ryker

Stinger for a Can Am Spyder RT/F3/Ryker Trailer – Specifications: • Capacity: 1 Can Am Spyder RT/F3/Ryker • Color: Black • Weight: 555 lbs. • Tongue Jack Included • Stored in Standard upright position : Width: 24″/ Length:90″ / Height: 60″, Unfolded: Width from fender to fender 89" & Length is...

stingertrailer.com

Stinger recommends:

• Use ratchet straps on each front wheel in a "cross" pattern: run a strap through the wheel, hooking one side of the strap to the opposite side of the trailer's built-in rings, and vice versa.
• Secure the rear of the machine to the trailer hooks. Use soft straps around the rear frame or axle to avoid damage.

So the ratchet straps go through the front wheels and around the built in wheel stops for the Spyder's front wheels, and then attached to the opposite side of the trailer. Right wheel to left side, left wheel to right side.

For the rear wheel I have a strap that is long enough to go through the rear wheel and wrap around so the loops on the end of the strap are on the tire. I then attach a ratchet strap to each loop and attach it to the sides of the trailer with the hooks resting on the tire.

 

[TheMariner]

Whatever you do, don't connect tiedowns to the steering tie rods. They are only hollow alloy tubes & will bend.

 

[Bfromla]

Agree with above & additionally, if the trailer is open, leave your Spyder uncovered. Wind flutter will make any cover scuff the paint & plastics.

 

[TheMariner]

... and if the trailer is open, drive the Spyder on forward... don't reverse it on otherwise any screen you have won't stay attached for long.

 

[Albec]

Is my method proper? Dunno but it works perfectly. Check out my padded straps.

 

[pauly1]

I've used this method for close 15+ years. E-track on the trailer floor, a simple wheel chock that is removable to facilitate loading, and two tie straps, one each around the frame tube near the bolted end near the main frame. With ratchet tie straps, pull down and back into the wheel chock. I use a soft wrap around the frame tube to prevent scratches. I can load two Spyders and tie down in 10 to 15 minutes. BTW, it even survived an off road excursion to avoid an accident. I've used this method in multiple trailers and a toyhauler 5th wheel RV.

If you are loading on a flat trailer for a one-off move, follow the instructions in the Owner's Manual.

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[2dogs]

"Super Chocks," the best tiedown ever made (IMHO), but no longer manufactured. I have two pairs. One for the Spyder and one for the Polaris. Both attach to the same Aluma flatbed trailer. Simple and safe. There are some second hand still out there for sale, if you can find them.

 

[LongIsland]

Here's a video of one method, while it is for a stinger trailer I'm sure it can be applied to most trailers.

 

[Tango]

Do yourself a favour. Get the eye bolts that replace the front shock bolts. Makes the front end much easier to tie down. Lamonster, BAJARON, and Spyderpops sell them. For the rear, I use the tow hitch to tie it down.

 

[Snoking1127]

Do yourself a favour. Get the eye bolts that replace the front shock bolts. Makes the front end much easier to tie down. Lamonster, BAJARON, and Spyderpops sell them. For the rear, I use the tow hitch to tie it down.

I might have been the first to do this back in 2020. They are also available here:

heyous 4pcs M10 304 Stainless Steel Ring Shape Lifting Eye Threaded Nut for Marine Hardware: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

heyous 4pcs M10 304 Stainless Steel Ring Shape Lifting Eye Threaded Nut for Marine Hardware: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[retdpd]

I use E-Track and E-Track straps on front and rear. I use straps on each side from the rear tire rim with soft straps.

 

[Peter Aawen]

I might have been the first to do this back in 2020. They are also available here:

You might've been 'the first' to use eye-bolts on a 2020 Spyder in the USA back in 2020, and a quick look thru the Forum discussion about that time supports that; but here in Oz, those eye-bolts were being installed on Spyder lower shock mounts for towing, securing to trailers, and tie-down purposes well before I installed them on my new 2013 RT Ltd immediately before I rode it off the dealer's lot back then.

IIRC, they were initially being marketed here in Oz as Tow-eze or Tow-eyze by late 2008, and again, only IIRC, they started to significantly hit the market in your part of the World about late 2014 or early 2015, altho I reckon there was some discussion about the risks of using them in one of the earlier DIY wheel alignment threads (it could've even been suggesting using them as reference points?!) as so it Is possible they could've been used, at least in some parts of the USA a fair bit earlier... I reckon Lamonster Garage was selling them for trailering & towing etc by 2015, if not sooner. A quick search on those names certainly shows that there's some early threads here talking about them by 2016, and that's without looking for the eye-bolt comments in any DIY wheel alignment threads!

But you are absolutely right about one thing - there is absolutely no way that anyone was putting them on 2020 Spyders for any reason too much before 2020 rolled around!

Just Sayin'