What causes the need for a canisterectomy?

[Texmac1011]

About 3 weeks ago I had the 2nd update done, due to surging at low speeds/rpms. The bike ran great for about 3 days the the surging started again, along with the strong gas smell. I probably need to do the canisterectomy, but why exactly? What is happening within the spyder to require this modification?

Thanks ahead of time for educating me.

 

[Smylinacha]

HDX did mine - he could explain to you. He's at work right now though. Plenty of people did it on here - I'm sure you'll hear from them soon.

 

[Roadkill]

What causes the need for a canisterectomy?

+Paranoia.

Ride on.
Roadkill

 

[RoadHammer]

hahahahahahaha lmao... Fire under the tupperware!!!:2thumbs:

 

[Mo Lee]

The cannister has a vent tube that exhaust excess gas fumes under the plastics over top of hot exhaust and near several electrical items to include spark plug wire (that have been known to leak spark). Update two they are supposed to install an extension to this vent hose to get the fuel fumes from under the tupperware. This will not keep you from smelling the fumes however it does move them to a safer area. Several have removed the cannister and vented the fuel tank to the rear of the bike and some of us have simply ran the extension hose to the rear of the bike. I chose the second option up to this point simply because it keep the cannister working to its limited capability, to cut down on some of the fumes. There is a purge valve by the cannister that is suppose to open and allow excess fuel fumes from the cannister to be pulled into the engine and burnt. This appears to be where the poor performance comes from due to it being open at the wrong times or duration causing a lean mixture. There is several options available to restore smooth acceleration, which is generally worse with after market exhaust.

 

[Trickie Dick]

The cannister has a vent tube that exhaust excess gas fumes under the plastics over top of hot exhaust and near several electrical items to include spark plug wire (that have been known to leak spark). Update two they are supposed to install an extension to this vent hose to get the fuel fumes from under the tupperware. This will not keep you from smelling the fumes however it does move them to a safer area. Several have removed the cannister and vented the fuel tank to the rear of the bike and some of us have simply ran the extension hose to the rear of the bike. I chose the second option up to this point simply because it keep the cannister working to its limited capability, to cut down on some of the fumes. There is a purge valve by the cannister that is suppose to open and allow excess fuel fumes from the cannister to be pulled into the engine and burnt. This appears to be where the poor performance comes from due to it being open at the wrong times or duration causing a lean mixture. There is several options available to restore smooth acceleration, which is generally worse with after market exhaust.

Thank you Mo, for an intelligent response.:firstplace:

 

[JimAlpha]

The cannister has a vent tube that exhaust excess gas fumes under the plastics over top of hot exhaust and near several electrical items to include spark plug wire (that have been known to leak spark). Update two they are supposed to install an extension to this vent hose to get the fuel fumes from under the tupperware. This will not keep you from smelling the fumes however it does move them to a safer area. Several have removed the cannister and vented the fuel tank to the rear of the bike and some of us have simply ran the extension hose to the rear of the bike. I chose the second option up to this point simply because it keep the cannister working to its limited capability, to cut down on some of the fumes. There is a purge valve by the cannister that is suppose to open and allow excess fuel fumes from the cannister to be pulled into the engine and burnt. This appears to be where the poor performance comes from due to it being open at the wrong times or duration causing a lean mixture. There is several options available to restore smooth acceleration, which is generally worse with after market exhaust.

great response ! what are the other options? Evo 02 sensor? Are there others?

 

[Texmac1011]

Yes, thanks Mo. I knew I would get one from somebody. I want to understand what is happening, not what the end result might be.

I disconnected the purge valve hose and plugged it with a bolt, per Lamont's video.

My question is this:

If I do not disconnect and extend the line going from the gas tank to the cannister, do I need to plug the open hose connection in the top of the cannister where the purge valve connected? My dealer extended the cannister vent hose to somewhere forward and down, so for warranty reasons, I will leave the cannister in.

Thanks again Mo!

 

[Mo Lee]

Yes, thanks Mo. I knew I would get one from somebody. I want to understand what is happening, not what the end result might be.

I disconnected the purge valve hose and plugged it with a bolt, per Lamont's video.

My question is this:

If I do not disconnect and extend the line going from the gas tank to the cannister, do I need to plug the open hose connection in the top of the cannister where the purge valve connected? My dealer extended the cannister vent hose to somewhere forward and down, so for warranty reasons, I will leave the cannister in.

Thanks again Mo!

The choice has to be yours, however if you have any open hoses under the plastics I would plug them or reconnect them. Try not to over fill the fuel tank in hot weather, since that seems to cause more fuel vapor. I wrapped my exhaust, which does two things it seems to lower the temps in that area and also helps the performance issues by helping the exhaust flow, I now seldom get any hesitation or popping now. I probably will put on a 02 modifier later as time permits. I prefer to run the extension hose to the rear simply to help keep the fumes from being drawn back up around the engine.

 

[M2Wild]

great response ! what are the other options? Evo 02 sensor? Are there others?

O2 mod only help with richen up the mix a bit which helps to eliminate back firing during decel when you are using a high flow air filter such as the green filter and performance exaust such as the Hindle. It will not get rid of that gas smell from the evap can.

Only way to deal with the fume is to route the tube to the back of the bike, make sure the purge valve is working properly and never over fill the tank. I personally don't like to see that little triangle lit up after a fill because a very full tank of gas slushing around during a spirited ride bound to have some spill into the evap can. Just a bad design from BRP trying to comply with emission. Don't forget the pressure in the gas tank has to go somewhere so I don't think plugging up the vent tube is a long term solution.

 

[NancysToy]

..... I personally don't like to see that little triangle lit up after a fill because a very full tank of gas slushing around during a spirited ride bound to have some spill into the evap can. Just a bad design from BRP trying to comply with emission. Don't forget the pressure in the gas tank has to go somewhere so I don't think plugging up the vent tube is a long term solution.

:agree:

 

[Texmac1011]

Not filling to the top is a good idea. I will try that. I didn't plug the vent tube, only the purge valve tube. My dealer routed the cannister vent tube down and out under the front of the bike. I will move this to the back, either as it is, or directly off the gas tank. If I leave it as is, it will be easier to "return everything to normal" before taking it in for service or warranty work.

Thanks for all the great info!

 

[Roger]

Kewlmetal air cleaner i cant explain how it helps but just does.

 

[Roger]

Yes, thanks Mo. I knew I would get one from somebody. I want to understand what is happening, not what the end result might be.

I disconnected the purge valve hose and plugged it with a bolt, per Lamont's video.

My question is this:

If I do not disconnect and extend the line going from the gas tank to the cannister, do I need to plug the open hose connection in the top of the cannister where the purge valve connected? My dealer extended the cannister vent hose to somewhere forward and down, so for warranty reasons, I will leave the cannister in.

Thanks again Mo!

Yes this is the repair under warranty that brp recommends i have a 2010 se5 and it was already done on my bike when i picked it up. I have never smelled anything on my bike until i did the 6000 mile oil change. I changed the oil exactly as the manual says including the tranny filter and the exact mount of oil so when i removed my air cleaner box yesterday and put on the kewlmetal air cleaner their was oil all over the inside of the box and noticed it start to leak in the front of the box so i was glad to get rid of that now i cant wait to see how it preforms with the 02 modifier and the handle. :dontknow:

 

[Campverdefela]

Yes this is the repair under warranty that brp recommends i have a 2010 se5 and it was already done on my bike when i picked it up. I have never smelled anything on my bike until i did the 6000 mile oil change. I changed the oil exactly as the manual says including the tranny filter and the exact mount of oil so when i removed my air cleaner box yesterday and put on the kewlmetal air cleaner their was oil all over the inside of the box and noticed it start to leak in the front of the box so i was glad to get rid of that now i cant wait to see how it preforms with the 02 modifier and the handle. :dontknow:

Most people on this forum have come to the realization that BRP has it wrong with the amount of oil needed and if you fill it to the full mark it ends up blowing it out until it reaches about a quarter inch up from the bottom of the stick and then it quits blowing by. I now fill mine to the half way mark. If you have decel popping, then the 02 mod will take care of that issue.

 

[Sarge707]

To extend the hose do you take off the 3" hose there and put on a long hose routed somewhere safer or do you attach a extension hose to the hose there wth a clamp? Anyone know the inner diameter of the extension hose you need?

 

[Texmac1011]

To extend the hose do you take off the 3" hose there and put on a long hose routed somewhere safer or do you attach a extension hose to the hose there wth a clamp? Anyone know the inner diameter of the extension hose you need?

From my understanding, extend the hose leading from the gas tank to the cannister. It is 1/4" ID fuel line.

 

[Mo Lee]

No you need to extend the 3 inch hose that comes out of the top and turns down. You may already have the BRP extension routed down near the radiator, if so reroute it rearward and extend as needed.

 

[Texmac1011]

No you need to extend the 3 inch hose that comes out of the top and turns down. You may already have the BRP extension routed down near the radiator, if so reroute it rearward and extend as needed.

Sorry I misunderstood. I removed my canister, so I extended the line off the gas tank.

 

[Sarge707]

No you need to extend the 3 inch hose that comes out of the top and turns down. You may already have the BRP extension routed down near the radiator, if so reroute it rearward and extend as needed.

So Just clamp a longer hose TO the 3" one ?:dontknow: