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Well, that didn't take long... First fault on my new 2023 RTL! Air Suspension Fault.
- Thread starter GrayRyder
- Start date
mecsw500
Member
Mine ended up needing all the valves pipework, compressor, It might be warm enough in Kentucky to do that. Mine was stuck from Thanksgiving until Easter waiting for parts through Covid to finally fix it all.
Now it runs great, but oh boy was I a bit ticked with all the problems on a new bike. I should have lemon lawed it, but I thought OK so I get a new one, but that's no guarantee it will be any better so I'd rather have the one they fixed.
It started with the missing ride height lever bolt, but then went down hill after that. They changed everything that appeared problematic to begin with and I kept going back week after week until the snow came, then they gave up and ordered the whole system. They'd fix it, test it, and then it would do it again on the way home. The tech rode it around for hours and it would be fine. I'd get 10 miles down the freeway on the way home and it would all start again. It turned out that unloading the suspension over bumps on the freeway, with my extra weight over the tech's, seemed to be the trigger. Drove us mad.
Now it runs great, but oh boy was I a bit ticked with all the problems on a new bike. I should have lemon lawed it, but I thought OK so I get a new one, but that's no guarantee it will be any better so I'd rather have the one they fixed.
It started with the missing ride height lever bolt, but then went down hill after that. They changed everything that appeared problematic to begin with and I kept going back week after week until the snow came, then they gave up and ordered the whole system. They'd fix it, test it, and then it would do it again on the way home. The tech rode it around for hours and it would be fine. I'd get 10 miles down the freeway on the way home and it would all start again. It turned out that unloading the suspension over bumps on the freeway, with my extra weight over the tech's, seemed to be the trigger. Drove us mad.
The connecting arm was the problem with my 2022 S2S. It caused the compressor to fail as well as drain the battery, which was also replaced. Also, the skid plates were really scrapped up due to the trike bottoming out due to the air suspension failing. The dealer did replace everything and for 3 months now, there's been no issues.
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Update- I took it back to the dealer and they took care of the problem. I nicely let them know that this doesn't inspire much confidence in their service department. My old powersports dealer retired about 18 months ago and the local H-D dealer bought his franchises. I am trying to establish a good relationship with this dealer, so I didn't want to act like a jerk. The sad thing is, there are 3 Can Am dealers within 50 miles of me and this one gets a gold rating on the BRP website while the other 2 get silver. We shall see. Again, thank you all for responding and helping out a new guy.
I've had mine in the shop twice for a suspension code fault. Picked it up today but, on the way home, it showed the same fault and code. I called BRP Customer Support; they were very helpful and set up a case# on my bike, so I have to return to the shop for the third time for the same issue.
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mecsw500
Member
If it’s C210A it usually means it can’t set the ride height properly.
Under the rear seat is a schrader valve. Measure the pressure, it should be at least 30 psi if you’ve been riding one up. Using a HAND pump, put like 40 psi into it. Then measure it again on the next day. It should hold pressure. Never use an airline as it has a small volume. Never go over 90 psi for sure.
If it holds air, it could still be the pump, the return dump valve, a faulty level sensor, or even the system needs calibrating with BUDS2. If it doesn’t, it can be just about any component leaking.
It’s a complex system, which is not always well understood and mine had a fault in more than one component. I’d make sure I take a long test drive after it’s fixed.
I found in the end, the way to reproduce the fault on mine was to go over a portion of road that unloaded the suspension, so the bike goes a bit light, otherwise on surface streets etc it was much rarer in occurrence.
In the end they changed everything that was part of the rear leveling system and recalibrated everything. Took a few tries though and Covid was creating a supply chain issue with the Chinese parts.
Gwolf
Well-known member
I pre-ordered the 2019 F3-S Special Series and put a deposit on it. Coming up on 5 years now, and never had a problem or a warning light, fault code, or anything. I left the dealership the deposit and it was several months before the bike arrived partially assembed in a crate. It took the dealership 2 days to assemble it and do the initial service. By the time the crate arrived at the dealer, I already had an owners manual (fairly useless) as well as a service manual for it. I had already read both of them. Went to pick it up with a trialer, unloaded it in my own shop, and went over everything before ever riding it on the public highways. I found so many loose fasteners and fluid levels way off from where they should have been, that I decided right then, it was not going back to the dealership for any routine service or even most major repairs. It never has been back, and there never has been a problem with it. I am sure that since I am the one riding it, I will take more care to be sure everything is as it should be than some dealership grease monkey waiting to get off work and get a beer. Anybody can miss something now and then, but many of the dealerships specialize in missing a lot of somethings.
EKB2to3Wheelz
New member
We just picked up a new 2022 leftover RT Limited and on the way home the suspension Fault warning came on several times in the 70 mile drive. After putting gas in, the VSS warning came on and turned off. Spyder performed normally for the remaining 33 miles home. I’ve called the dealer we picked it up from and they said they will look into something and call me back. A friend thinks it’s a low voltage from the battery. The link you described above is installed and the shock is installed with the spacers. This is a nice machine, smoother, maybe calmer is a better description that our 2013 RTS SE5. But it looks like it’s back to the dealer for a fix. Is it safe to ride? I didnt note see any code numbers displayed, just suspension fault many times and one VSS after starting it at the gas station.Yes, this is a very common failure when dealers/techs don't do the pre-delivery properly! But Bolt A itself shouldn't connect to the Swingarm at B, it's the other end of the 6" or so long link/arm that looks like it's tucked up out of the way, going forward from bolt A & heading toward the top left of your pic that should be connected to the swingarm at B! Why so many dealers/techs just can't manage to follow the instructions and do this simple thing before handing over a Spyder to a new owner is really beyond me! :banghead:
With any luck, if your Spyder is like most I've seen where connecting this arm before delivery has been over-looked, then I think you'll find that the BUDS calibration thing has been done already at the factory, and all you need to do is jack the bike up a little so that the swing arm extends down juuust enough, then pull the link down and connect it - you'll need a bolt to thread into the connector on the swing arm too. Once that's done, just check to make sure there's some air in the air bag - I've found they generally need about 5-10psi in them in order to let the system set itself going properly, so if the bag is empty, you might need to add a touch of air via the Schraeder valve that should be under the seat (do 2023 models still have that valve?! :dontknow: )
And NO, you really shouldn't be too worried about a burned-out compressor after such a short while without it connected, especially since you got the 'suspension fault' message. Personally, I'd just take a bunch more pics and connect the link myself, taking pics of EVERYTHING you find and do, so that if you DO end up needing to go to the dealer, you have that fully documented. And I'd certainly be giving the dealer a serve about it, but unless they are prepared to fix it as & when you arrive there AND to let you stand there and watch everything they do so that you KNOW they've actually done it, then I wouldn't be leaving it!! :lecturef_smilie:
For most new Spyders delivered like that, it's just a matter of finding a suitable bolt; then pulling the link down/jacking the frame up so the swing arm droops a small amount; connecting the link to the swing arm with the bolt you found, plus making sure there's a little air in the bag to start with; then riding off! It should take maybe 10-15 minutes MAXIMUM, likely somewhat less if you've ever spun a spanner before & can still get down there & back up, cos it's really nothing difficult at all....
So if you want to risk leaving your new Spyder sitting around at the dealer's for who knows how many weeks while it's waiting for a tech who's already shown that they're basically incapable of doing such a simple thing, then that's your call, and I do know there's a principle involved, but for the maybe 15 minutes that it'd likely take you to do it so that you KNOW it's been done, I certainly wouldn't be handing it back to them &/or trusting someone to work on it who has already shown that they likely need help & supervision in order to follow the fairly basic pre-delivery instructions about doing this! :yikes:
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I'll take a guess that its going to be the battery is not very good. Since it's a leftover '22, the battery is a cheap battery that BRP started using. I changed out that crappy Chinese battery not long after after I got my '22 RTL. Before, it didn't turn over as quickly as the Yuasa battery they used to have in the Spyders, and I had a couple of faults. That was when/why I put in a good battery.
mecsw500
Member
I use the following I bought off of Amazon:
Battery Tender Plus 12V 1.25 AMP Car & Motorcycle Battery Charger and Maintainer, Float Charge for Automotive, and ATVs - Smarter Than a Trickle Charger
I attach the permanent charging harness tail to the battery directly, the line has a fuse in it so it's a safe thing to do. I then keep my Spyder connected to it whenever I'm not riding it. This is a good opportunity when installing the charging tail to check the battery terminals are good and tight, as sometimes the PDI fails to do that when installing the battery. Installing the charging harness tail takes all of 20 minutes. The battery is behind the liner in the back of the frunk, and under a plastic cover which is easy enough to remove.
Just be careful not to drop the battery post bolts when doing this. Perhaps place a rag over places the bolt will inevitably go when you undoubtedly drop them while trying really hard no to do so. Don't ask me how I know this. When you drop bolts and fasteners on a Spyder, they never come out underneath, you always have to take the under tray off and even then it seems it likes to eat them somehow and they are never anywhere to be found.
Your friend may well be correct. Either the battery is not charged up enough, which case being left overnight with this device attached should put things right, or the battery has been sitting a long time and will now not hold a proper charge now, or the terminals are even a little bit not as tight as they should be.
I've found they are very susceptible to needing a good charge in the battery. I don't think if driven cautiously back to the dealer would be a problem unless the errors you see put it into limp mode. If the VSS is complaining about issues I would just be cautious and not drive it like I stole it, or rely on the ABS and stability control to keep you out of harm. I'd also avoid driving it back if it were raining a lot as they do depend upon the VSS and hence stability control to handle right in the rain.
Good luck.
Battery Tender Plus 12V 1.25 AMP Car & Motorcycle Battery Charger and Maintainer, Float Charge for Automotive, and ATVs - Smarter Than a Trickle Charger
I attach the permanent charging harness tail to the battery directly, the line has a fuse in it so it's a safe thing to do. I then keep my Spyder connected to it whenever I'm not riding it. This is a good opportunity when installing the charging tail to check the battery terminals are good and tight, as sometimes the PDI fails to do that when installing the battery. Installing the charging harness tail takes all of 20 minutes. The battery is behind the liner in the back of the frunk, and under a plastic cover which is easy enough to remove.
Just be careful not to drop the battery post bolts when doing this. Perhaps place a rag over places the bolt will inevitably go when you undoubtedly drop them while trying really hard no to do so. Don't ask me how I know this. When you drop bolts and fasteners on a Spyder, they never come out underneath, you always have to take the under tray off and even then it seems it likes to eat them somehow and they are never anywhere to be found.
Your friend may well be correct. Either the battery is not charged up enough, which case being left overnight with this device attached should put things right, or the battery has been sitting a long time and will now not hold a proper charge now, or the terminals are even a little bit not as tight as they should be.
I've found they are very susceptible to needing a good charge in the battery. I don't think if driven cautiously back to the dealer would be a problem unless the errors you see put it into limp mode. If the VSS is complaining about issues I would just be cautious and not drive it like I stole it, or rely on the ABS and stability control to keep you out of harm. I'd also avoid driving it back if it were raining a lot as they do depend upon the VSS and hence stability control to handle right in the rain.
Good luck.
Yep, as others have said, that certainly sounds like you've got a crappy battery that's causing these faults to show - it's very unlikely that there's anything else wrong. It should be safe enough to ride, as the errors aren't from 'real faults' as such, but they are from failures in the electrical system and any 'bigger' failure could leave you stranded away from home/far from help, so it'd pay to bear that in mind.
Properly charging your battery might help, but if it's one of the sub-standard non-Yuasa batteries that BRP is dumping on customers, I'd suggest that you simply cut your losses NOW, cos it will completely fail sooner rather than later, and get a new battery, even if you hafta pay for it yourself! But first, since your 'New Old-Stock' Spyder should still be under warranty (there's only 6 months on the battery tho!
) maybe see if you can get a new & better battery from the dealer, a battery with at least 350 CCA & 21+ A/hr capacity, like the earlier/better Yuasa batteries that the pre-2020 Spyders came with from the factory. Good Luck! 
Truth to the oil changes - when I had my oil change done I had the bolts changed to hex head bolts . He gave me one back and said we only take one bolt off during oil changes and said it only took 4 quarts for an oil change!
Lew L
Well-known member
Time for a new dealer...
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