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Welding... Scotty/bjt/anyone....

Lamonster said:
Nice job Bro. How do they sound?
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gjco said:
great job. looks good. How do you like them?
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Director said:
That looks fantastic, ataDude! Like a factory option. Very, very professionally done. Bruce
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Thanks, guys. The sound is a little louder than a Hindle... but not nearly as loud as a Micron. It has a distinctively different sound than any I had, or had heard, so far... you can hear each cylinder doing its job rather than the mix through the 2-to-1.

I love it so far...
 
First, for $499, it might be worth it just for the mufflers. I don't know anything about the "Arrow" brand, though, or their resale value.

As for the piping, it retains the 2-to-1 stock junction and just adds an extra 180* turn to get the exhaust out the left side. So, what you have is a 2-to-1-to-2 plumbing routing which appears to be more restrictive than stock. The mufflers (if they're a straight-through design) might offset that, though.

I wouldn't build one that way (I did think about it) but... it does appear to be a easier/cheaper way to get duals. Building one from scratch like I did is a real pain in the rump and a much bigger job than I had originally envisioned.

I'm guessing that if you bought it, and didn't like it, you wouldn't be out much as you could probably sell the mufflers separately for $100-150 each. You're probably risking only about $200 if you wind up selling it piece by piece. I've got more than that just in parts that I didn't use for my setup. :D
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M2Wild said:
ataDude .... since you did your dual, I would like your opinion on this setup.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270355402353&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

Is it worth it? Thanks.
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ataDude said:
As for the piping, it retains the 2-to-1 stock junction and just adds an extra 180* turn to get the exhaust out the left side. So, what you have is a 2-to-1-to-2 plumbing routing which appears to be more restrictive than stock. The mufflers (if they're a straight-through design) might offset that, though.
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Very good observation (I missed the 2 to 1 to 2 setup) .... that's why I always ask the experts on this board. :bowdown:

Thank you very much for your input.
 
Welding, round two. During my pre-trip inspection, I noticed that the weld on one of my 3/8" round hangers broke loose (first structural failure I've ever had even though they're ugly).

I disconnected the battery (both terminals), hooked up the ground on the pipe two inches from the weld... and just fired away... with my fingers crossed.

It still runs. :2thumbs:


bjt said:
I see you got the info you wanted. I just want to give a +1 to the ground lead post. Be sure the ground is connected to the same piece of metal that you are welding on. Trying to weld with the ground on another piece of the bike can force the weld current through bearings, smaller ground wires (wire harness, ground traces on computer modules), etc. and that most likely would not be good.
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NancysToy said:
I second that motion. One of the best ways to protect the electronics and other components (besides disconnecting the battery) is to ground as close to where you are welding as possible, and make sure there are no electrical connects, such as ground wires, to the frame between the weld and the ground.
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