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Welding... Scotty/bjt/anyone....

ataDude

ataDude

Mod Maniac
... else with the knowledge.

I may need to weld a rod to the frame as the upper part of of an isolated tail pipe hanger for one side of the dual-sided mufflers I'm building. I used the stock rubber isolator/rod for the left side but am scratching my head for the right. I have the rubber and steel rod but....

Question: With all of the micro-processors we have on board... even with the battery disconnected... is there a potential for harming the processors using my little old 110V / 80 amp wire welder?

Help!
 
I'VE BEEN A WELDER FOR 30 YEARS AND MY WELDER IS A PULSE WITH ONBOARD COMPUTER CHIP. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AND YOU SHOULD BE FINE. MAJOR CONCERN IS GAS FUMES. BUT OTHER THAT THAT IF YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY YOU SHOULD BE FINE. I'VE ADDED HOLDING PIPES TO MY WELDER FOR THE STINGER AND NEVER HAD A PROBLEM. GOOD LUCK
 
Thanks!

MSGTDOC said:
I'VE BEEN A WELDER FOR 30 YEARS AND MY WELDER IS A PULSE WITH ONBOARD COMPUTER CHIP. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AND YOU SHOULD BE FINE. MAJOR CONCERN IS GAS FUMES. BUT OTHER THAT THAT IF YOU DISCONNECT THE BATTERY YOU SHOULD BE FINE. I'VE ADDED HOLDING PIPES TO MY WELDER FOR THE STINGER AND NEVER HAD A PROBLEM. GOOD LUCK
Click to expand...
 
I use to weld at a company that contracted to halliburton. we did all of there maintenance and fab work on all of there trailers and 18 wheelers. When we did all the welding all we did is disconnect the batteries. With all the welding that we did on the Kenworths we never had a problem. I would not hesitate to disconnect the batteries and weld on my own bike.
 
Fan

--------------before welding, place a good fan opposite the place you're working, blowing air away from the Spyder to the outdoors----could help fumes you can't detect-------
 
the fan is a good idea if you are going to Stick weld it. I would assume that you are not going to do it this way. The best would be to TIG weld it, but for this purpose I will assume again that you will be MIG welding your parts. This will work just as good, Just be sure to set the machine up and test your settings on a piece of scrap that is close to the same material that is to be welded.
 
good ground good weld

The most important aspect of welding on any object with sensative electronics to to make certain that you have a good ground. Make sure you remove all paint etc. from the base metal and assure that your ground cable and ground clamp have not degraded over time. Most people never think about changing their ground clamps.:thumbup:
 
MIG. :2thumbs:

.

gjco said:
the fan is a good idea if you are going to Stick weld it. I would assume that you are not going to do it this way. The best would be to TIG weld it, but for this purpose I will assume again that you will be MIG welding your parts. This will work just as good, Just be sure to set the machine up and test your settings on a piece of scrap that is close to the same material that is to be welded.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks, all!

gjco said:
I use to weld at a company that contracted to halliburton. we did all of there maintenance and fab work on all of there trailers and 18 wheelers. When we did all the welding all we did is disconnect the batteries. With all the welding that we did on the Kenworths we never had a problem. I would not hesitate to disconnect the batteries and weld on my own bike.
Click to expand...

Sara said:
--------------before welding, place a good fan opposite the place you're working, blowing air away from the Spyder to the outdoors----could help fumes you can't detect-------
Click to expand...

pathfinderjoe said:
The most important aspect of welding on any object with sensative electronics to to make certain that you have a good ground. Make sure you remove all paint etc. from the base metal and assure that your ground cable and ground clamp have not degraded over time. Most people never think about changing their ground clamps.:thumbup:
Click to expand...
 
I see you got the info you wanted. I just want to give a +1 to the ground lead post. Be sure the ground is connected to the same piece of metal that you are welding on. Trying to weld with the ground on another piece of the bike can force the weld current through bearings, smaller ground wires (wire harness, ground traces on computer modules), etc. and that most likely would not be good.
 
bjt said:
I see you got the info you wanted. I just want to give a +1 to the ground lead post. Be sure the ground is connected to the same piece of metal that you are welding on. Trying to weld with the ground on another piece of the bike can force the weld current through bearings, smaller ground wires (wire harness, ground traces on computer modules), etc. and that most likely would not be good.
Click to expand...
I second that motion. One of the best ways to protect the electronics and other components (besides disconnecting the battery) is to ground as close to where you are welding as possible, and make sure there are no electrical connects, such as ground wires, to the frame between the weld and the ground.
 
Thanks, bjt and Scotty!

bjt said:
I see you got the info you wanted. I just want to give a +1 to the ground lead post. Be sure the ground is connected to the same piece of metal that you are welding on. Trying to weld with the ground on another piece of the bike can force the weld current through bearings, smaller ground wires (wire harness, ground traces on computer modules), etc. and that most likely would not be good.
Click to expand...

NancysToy said:
I second that motion. One of the best ways to protect the electronics and other components (besides disconnecting the battery) is to ground as close to where you are welding as possible, and make sure there are no electrical connects, such as ground wires, to the frame between the weld and the ground.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks to all who responded.

As it turned out, I didn't have to weld on the frame at all. I double-stacked a second rubber isolator on the existing frame rod and then ran a 3/8" rod over to the right side pipe. :clap:

.
 
ataDude said:
Thanks to all who responded.

As it turned out, I didn't have to weld on the frame at all. I double-stacked a second rubber isolator on the existing frame rod and then ran a 3/8" rod over to the right side pipe. :clap:

.
Click to expand...
That spiked thinking cap in your avatar seems to be working. :D
-Scotty
 
Ta da....

.... duals are mostly done. Fitted, ready to bolt together tomorrow after coating and baking tonight. :thumbup:

The stock 2-to-1 is on the left... note that the top inlets are where the troublesome slip-joint gaskets reside. One is still in... kind of. :(

I'll run for a while without a cross-over pipe to see how they perform. The O2 sensor bung is on right pipe... if that doesn't work well, I'll put in the evoluzione sensor eliminator.

More to come.:popcorn:

picture.php
 
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hey atadude

Hey atadude what are you going to put at the end of those Bad boys? PIC Please Dont be shy.
 
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