Warm up time before WOT?

[StealthSpyder]

Hey guys,

Have a few questions that I have not come across in all my research on this forum about the spyder. My curiosity on this topic is due to my DD cager...Audi S4 (4.2 V8). The audi forums suggest about 15 minus of low-load (in spyder terms, non-lugging) driving, under 3k RPM's, for the massive sump of 9.5 quarts of oil to get up to temp, before spirited driving and high RPM's.

So, I'm wondering if the spyder has any special warm up needs as well:

:ani29:How long should I be letting the spyder warm up/idle in the garage before taking off? The Audi forums say that idling is the harshest for the S4, and to fire it up and go within 30 seconds, and that low load driving is the best thing for warming up the oil.

:ani29:In addition...is there a period of time where I shouldn't rev the spyder over X amount of RPM's until it's up to operating temp? With the Audi, even when the coolant gauge on the dash shows up to temp, the oil usually needs ~10 mins longer to get up to temp...wondering if the spyder is similar

:ani29:If so, what RPM's would you suggest I keep it under, and for how many minutes of riding after I pull out of garage?


So far, I've been firing her up and going within 20 seconds (no warm up time)...but keep in mind it's summer in FL, although not sure if that makes too much difference. I've been keeping it under 6k RPM's for first 5 mins or so. Should I err more towards 10 mins of more relaxed ryding before putting heavier loads and higher RPM's?

:cheers:

-=SS

 

[bruiser]

Idling for warm up is not good for any engine. Get on it and go but don't run like you're in a race.

 

[DrewNJ]

I usually start up the bike and let it idle while I get my jacket, helmet and gloves on, maybe throw a few things in the trunk and then I'm underway. Usually, I'm at the first bar by that time on the gauge.
From there I baby it down the road til I see 3 bars, and ride normally from there. I would not WOT til it's warmed up fully...

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[Chupaca]

Tepid..!!

I would say. Seeing as most people have a ways to go before they can open up anyway by then your good to go. Now if you live on a freeway ramp (and I have twice) then letting it idle while you get ready is good enough. Getting all parts moving helps get a more even heat up going. Now thats my way and comparing to your Audi this is an tad less high performance...:roflblack:

 

[Bob Denman]

As soon as it settles down to it's normal idling speed (900 rpm for the 1330), I'm in gear and gone. Usually, it's only 10 seconds or less
Just keep the loads light, and the revs in the "Safe and Sane" zone, until you see the temperature gauge showing that it's getting with the program... :thumbup:

 

[oldguyinTX]

Hey guys,

Have a few questions that I have not come across in all my research on this forum about the spyder. My curiosity on this topic is due to my DD cager...Audi S4 (4.2 V8). The audi forums suggest about 15 minus of low-load (in spyder terms, non-lugging) driving, under 3k RPM's, for the massive sump of 9.5 quarts of oil to get up to temp, before spirited driving and high RPM's.

So, I'm wondering if the spyder has any special warm up needs as well:

:ani29:How long should I be letting the spyder warm up/idle in the garage before taking off? The Audi forums say that idling is the harshest for the S4, and to fire it up and go within 30 seconds, and that low load driving is the best thing for warming up the oil.

:ani29:In addition...is there a period of time where I shouldn't rev the spyder over X amount of RPM's until it's up to operating temp? With the Audi, even when the coolant gauge on the dash shows up to temp, the oil usually needs ~10 mins longer to get up to temp...wondering if the spyder is similar

:ani29:If so, what RPM's would you suggest I keep it under, and for how many minutes of riding after I pull out of garage?




So far, I've been firing her up and going within 20 seconds (no warm up time)...but keep in mind it's summer in FL, although not sure if that makes too much difference. I've been keeping it under 6k RPM's for first 5 mins or so. Should I err more towards 10 mins of more relaxed ryding before putting heavier loads and higher RPM's?

:cheers:

-=SS

I I do not warm up my 2013 RT LTD SE5 (998cc engine) for 3-5 minutes, depending on the outside temp, it shakes and shudders like a bucking bronco. The technician at my dealer (he only works on BRP products) agrees. He told me that this is because the engine is trying to pump cold, viscous oil through small orifices, as well as through the clutch plates. Now that I do this, it takes off very smoothly. Give it a try.

 

[BajaRon]

I I do not warm up my 2013 RT LTD SE5 (998cc engine) for 3-5 minutes, depending on the outside temp, it shakes and shudders like a bucking bronco. The technician at my dealer (he only works on BRP products) agrees. He told me that this is because the engine is trying to pump cold, viscous oil through small orifices, as well as through the clutch plates. Now that I do this, it takes off very smoothly. Give it a try.

How cold does your Spyder get? If you're using the BRP blend I would highly recommend switching to a TRUE full synthetic oil. Many 'Synthetic' products are simply standard type III mineral based oil with a lot of additives to beef it up. That means you've got long chain, short chain and everything in-between length molecules. It is the long chain molecules that are hard to pump when the oil is cold.

A true, Type IV Ester based oil is engineered at the refinement process giving uniform chain length molecules which are much more stable and do not break apart as easily as the long molecules in type III base oils.

Because of this, Ester based oils use very little or no additives because they are not needed. Ester based oils will flow much more easily at cold temperatures while maintaining their viscosity better at high temperatures.

Idling your engine is not good. It increases oil contamination, carbon buildup, and engine wear. It is much better to ride mildly within 1 minute of starting the engine. The sooner the hard parts reach operating temperature (which puts them in spec) the better fit and less wear you will get. Cold parts are smaller than warm parts. Cold pistons are smaller, cold rings are smaller, etc.

Time to WOT depends on conditions. Ideally you should wait until the engine reaches minimum operating temperature. This is about 3 bars on the Spyder temp gauge.

Everyone should ride and run their ride the way they want to and I would never get between a rider and their ride. But information is always valuable! hyea:

 

[NorCalBud]

Our riding group was recently told by a local Service Tech, that the Rotax engines for these machines are designed for high RPM use. He says that they have small sending ports internally that don't even begin sending oil to the top of the engine until 3k RPM's. Thus starting and idling at low RPM would be bad for the engine.
I don't know how true that is but just passing on what was stated...

 

[AbNormy]

Long time ago it was explained to me that engines only wear until they're warmed up, before that acid byproducts of combustion condense on colder cylinder walls and etch cylinders contaminate oil. Longer it takes to warm up longer wear takes place, therefore better to put light load (drive slow) on it till it reaches operating temp.


Living the dream while I still can!

 

[StealthSpyder]

How cold does your Spyder get? If you're using the BRP blend I would highly recommend switching to a TRUE full synthetic oil. Many 'Synthetic' products are simply standard type III mineral based oil with a lot of additives to beef it up. That means you've got long chain, short chain and everything in-between length molecules. It is the long chain molecules that are hard to pump when the oil is cold.

A true, Type IV Ester based oil is engineered at the refinement process giving uniform chain length molecules which are much more stable and do not break apart as easily as the long molecules in type III base oils.

Because of this, Ester based oils use very little or no additives because they are not needed. Ester based oils will flow much more easily at cold temperatures while maintaining their viscosity better at high temperatures.

Idling your engine is not good. It increases oil contamination, carbon buildup, and engine wear. It is much better to ride mildly within 1 minute of starting the engine. The sooner the hard parts reach operating temperature (which puts them in spec) the better fit and less wear you will get. Cold parts are smaller than warm parts. Cold pistons are smaller, cold rings are smaller, etc.

Time to WOT depends on conditions. Ideally you should wait until the engine reaches minimum operating temperature. This is about 3 bars on the Spyder temp gauge.

Everyone should ride and run their ride the way they want to and I would never get between a rider and their ride. But information is always valuable! hyea:

You remind me of the "oil guru" from my audizine forum haha. There's always one that is an oil subject matter expert! :clap: That is awesome and very good knowledge, thanks for the post Ron.


So...what true Type IV Ester based oil would you recommend for the spyder that I can purchase at an advanced auto parts or napa auto parts store? :thumbup:

 

[Dan_Ashley]

My mechanic said start the bike, put on your gear and go. Keep RPMs over 3,500 because the clutch locks up at 3,400.

My other mechanic says start the bike and go.

My father, a PhD mechanical engineer (rockets not cars). Says start the engine and go.

My son a Toyota master mechanic says (wait for it....) ...start the bike, put on your gear and go--keep the RPMs over 3,500.

So, I normally either put my gear on before or after starting the bike. Then I go. I try to keep my RPMs up.

 

[ARtraveler]

The motors have come a long way over the years.

My procedure (after all my riding gear is on) is to start the :spyder2: up. Give it a few seconds for the tach needle to get into that (under 1000) place (2014) or (under 1500) for (2013's and less). I put it into gear, back it out of the garage, wait for the door to close properly, continue backing out of my 30+ ft. driveway, head out to the secondary road (2.5 blocks away). By the time I hit the secondary road, the :ani29: is raring to go to whatever the destination of the ride is.

 

[sddinnh]

On new BMW's, their manual says to not excessively idle the bike. Essentially, they say what everyone else here has said. Let the RPM settle down down proceed without undue strain on the engine until it warms up "on the go"

 

[Dan_Ashley]

What is "WOT"?

 

[DrewNJ]

What is "WOT"?

Wide Open Throttle

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[Dan_Ashley]

Wide Open Throttle

Sent from my Venue 8 3830 using Tapatalk

oh, OK, thanks.

 

[Woodsrider]

I treat this spyder as I do my classic Italian roadster. Start it up, back it out of the garage, roll down the driveway, keep the foot to the floor unless I'm cruising and then I stay over 4500rpm.

She seems to like it, as does the Italian.

 

[BajaRon]

You remind me of the "oil guru" from my audizine forum haha. There's always one that is an oil subject matter expert! :clap: That is awesome and very good knowledge, thanks for the post Ron.


So...what true Type IV Ester based oil would you recommend for the spyder that I can purchase at an advanced auto parts or napa auto parts store? :thumbup:

Ah well, you know we all have our hobby-horses and I guess Oil is one of mine.

But I have to admit, I don't keep up with all the Type IV Ester based oils out there. I use Amsoil but I know Motul and I believe Royal Purple are also Ester based and there are others as well. You have to be sure to get a wet clutch version in the correct viscosity (JASO M2 rating being the best). Personally I think the 10w-40 range is a good place to be. The wider the number spread, the harder it is for the oil to maintain the higher viscosity number over time.

I would certainly give it a try. It may solve your problem. If not, you can certainly go back and you'll get better lubrication in the meantime.

 

[jerpinoy]

I start my:spyder2:close the garage do my jacket, fasten my helmet and put on my gloves and brooooooom broooooommm. see ya alligator.

 

[StealthSpyder]

Ah well, you know we all have our hobby-horses and I guess Oil is one of mine.

But I have to admit, I don't keep up with all the Type IV Ester based oils out there. I use Amsoil but I know Motul and I believe Royal Purple are also Ester based and there are others as well. You have to be sure to get a wet clutch version in the correct viscosity (JASO M2 rating being the best). Personally I think the 10w-40 range is a good place to be. The wider the number spread, the harder it is for the oil to maintain the higher viscosity number over time.

I would certainly give it a try. It may solve your problem. If not, you can certainly go back and you'll get better lubrication in the meantime.

I will call around my local auto stores and will ask for amsoil, motul, or royal purple motorcycle synthetic oil and see what they have. :thumbup: