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Vibration in the handlebars normal?

I am new to spyder world. I bought a 2018 f3 L in June and have a few different vibrations. one as mentioned above is about 72 mph, which I have grown used to (but of course would rather not have). number 2 makes it difficult to use my mirrors because they blur sometimes at speed. The 3rd vibrates my hands (more right than left, and occasionally makes my fingers go numb. Thank God for cruise control so I can take my hand off and shake out. Has anyone else had this problem? any suggestions? I thought about the belt tensioner listed on the home page but wanted to check with the "experts" who have been spyder riders a lot longer than me.
 
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Yesterday, while riding my 2021 RT SE6 on the interstate, as I accelerated from 60 mph, when the Scoot reached 63 mph, the handlebars started to 'Wobble' and the situation didn't go away until 68 mph, when it smoothed out completely! The Scoot had NEVER done this before???

The Unit only has 2,500+- miles since new and just had the First Maintenance service performed at my Selling Dealership, in Frontenac, Kansas, less than 200 miles ago but I didn't notice the 'wobble,' because I ride mostly Rural country roads @ 50 to 55 mph as I like to take it easy and smell the roses!

I also noticed that the Unit seemed to 'wander' a bit and it never did before that service?

Could the Dealer have over tightened the front rims, distorting/ bending the Rotors, which has been an issue if a Torque wrench isn't used!

I haven't checked anything yet but will soon. I hadn't ridden it for a couple of months because we have had 90 to 100 degree weather every day in SW Missouri and I don't do heat well anymore at my age!

I'd appreciate some advice and comments please.

Sam
 
Yesterday, while riding my 2021 RT SE6 on the interstate, as I accelerated from 60 mph, when the Scoot reached 63 mph, the handlebars started to 'Wobble' and the situation didn't go away until 68 mph, when it smoothed out completely! The Scoot had NEVER done this before???

The Unit only has 2,500+- miles since new and just had the First Maintenance service performed at my Selling Dealership, in Frontenac, Kansas, less than 200 miles ago but I didn't notice the 'wobble,' because I ride mostly Rural country roads @ 50 to 55 mph as I like to take it easy and smell the roses!

I also noticed that the Unit seemed to 'wander' a bit and it never did before that service?

Could the Dealer have over tightened the front rims, distorting/ bending the Rotors, which has been an issue if a Torque wrench isn't used!

I haven't checked anything yet but will soon. I hadn't ridden it for a couple of months because we have had 90 to 100 degree weather every day in SW Missouri and I don't do heat well anymore at my age!

I'd appreciate some advice and comments please.

Sam

my experience with " wheel imbalance " ( which is felt in handlebars first ) is this .... it starts at about 40 mph and increases the faster you go ..... what you have described leads me to think it's something else ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
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Nope.... that is next. For some reason the shop was really hesitant to balance the wheels. BUT I plan on making them do it this time.

Wow. Hesitant to balance the wheels. ..... But we can fit a tensioner. Dam Cowboys I reckon. What a joke.
 
Yesterday, while riding my 2021 RT SE6 on the interstate, as I accelerated from 60 mph, when the Scoot reached 63 mph, the handlebars started to 'Wobble' and the situation didn't go away until 68 mph, when it smoothed out completely! The Scoot had NEVER done this before???

The Unit only has 2,500+- miles since new and just had the First Maintenance service performed at my Selling Dealership, in Frontenac, Kansas, less than 200 miles ago but I didn't notice the 'wobble,' because I ride mostly Rural country roads @ 50 to 55 mph as I like to take it easy and smell the roses!

I also noticed that the Unit seemed to 'wander' a bit and it never did before that service?

Could the Dealer have over tightened the front rims, distorting/ bending the Rotors, which has been an issue if a Torque wrench isn't used!

I haven't checked anything yet but will soon. I hadn't ridden it for a couple of months because we have had 90 to 100 degree weather every day in SW Missouri and I don't do heat well anymore at my age!

I'd appreciate some advice and comments please.

Sam

I just bought a 2022 RTL about a month ago. While driving it home, I noticed that around 57 mph and up, the handle bars would shimmy really hard. For reasons I won't go into now, I didn't take it to the dealer I purchased it from and took it to another dealer for them to check. They determined the tires were out of round from sitting in crate. Two new OEM tires later, no shimmy. The tech indicated they see that problem fairly frequently.
 
I just bought a 2022 RTL about a month ago. While driving it home, I noticed that around 57 mph and up, the handle bars would shimmy really hard. For reasons I won't go into now, I didn't take it to the dealer I purchased it from and took it to another dealer for them to check. They determined the tires were out of round from sitting in crate. Two new OEM tires later, no shimmy. The tech indicated they see that problem fairly frequently.

:clap::clap::clap: .... you did ... due diligence ... and got the issue fixed .... I very seriously doubt the " sitting in the crate " thing is valid even for KENDA tires. Unless BRP shipped it with NO air in the tires and I doubt that also ..... The REAL problem the Tech's see ( but won't admit to you ) is Kenda tires are CRAP ..... They have the Highest DEFECT ratio of any tire I have ever heard about ..... for your own knowledge read up on what Peter Aawen ( and I ) have said about the Kenda's ..... ( knowledge is power ) .... good luck ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
I just bought a 2022 RTL about a month ago. While driving it home, I noticed that around 57 mph and up, the handle bars would shimmy really hard. For reasons I won't go into now, I didn't take it to the dealer I purchased it from and took it to another dealer for them to check. They determined the tires were out of round from sitting in crate. Two new OEM tires later, no shimmy. The tech indicated they see that problem fairly frequently.

I just got the same shimmy. Didn't notice it for the first 1400 miles or so, then all of a sudden there it was. Starts around 45 and gets worse the faster we ryde. Going to the dealer on the 28th.
 
I get a vibration that I thought was wheels. Then while sitting at a light I took my hands off the handle bar and the vibration was obviously nothing to do with being in motion but rather the engine, which is not unheard of on a 3 cylinder engine.
 
I just got the same shimmy. Didn't notice it for the first 1400 miles or so, then all of a sudden there it was. Starts around 45 and gets worse the faster we ryde. Going to the dealer on the 28th.

I would take a good look inside the front wheels, see if any weights are missing ..... It would be harder to check, but if you still have KENDA tires, one ( or both tho not likely both ) of them may have failed .... Yes I know they are new, but Kenda's are notorious for defective tires .... good luck .... Mike :roflblack:
 
I would take a good look inside the front wheels, see if any weights are missing ..... It would be harder to check, but if you still have KENDA tires, one ( or both tho not likely both ) of them may have failed .... Yes I know they are new, but Kenda's are notorious for defective tires .... good luck .... Mike :roflblack:

Yeah, checked the weights, all good there as far as I can tell. I'm gonna check the runout on the tires/wheels this weekend.

That's what I've seen concerning these Kendas. I'll wait until it's out of warranty before switching though. Until then, BRP better make it good.

Thanks BlueKnight
 
I have the same handlebar shake on my brand new 22 RTL from the first mile! It's at its worst between 55/65 mph. I jacked up the front and spun the front tires next to a straight edge; the right side had an 1/8 in. difference out of round !! Now I'm fighting with the dealer and BRP to get it fixed!!!
 
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Yeah, checked the weights, all good there as far as I can tell. I'm gonna check the runout on the tires/wheels this weekend.

That's what I've seen concerning these Kendas. I'll wait until it's out of warranty before switching though. Until then, BRP better make it good.

Thanks BlueKnight

You have a new 22 S2S ..... Those tires should be under WARRANTY, and if Defective should be replaced for FREE ..... good luck ... Mike :thumbup:
 
Reading these posts about new Spyders and even earlier Spyder having vibrations that are not drive belt related, reminds me of one local Spyder owner I helped. After several visits to his dealership, actually a very highly rated and respected dealership, the service department gave up and insisted the vibration was normal. The dealership even refused to work on the issue any further.
I offered to this owner to bring the Spyder by, as it was most likely improperly balanced front tire(s). Told him, within 15 minutes we would have a pretty good idea of exactly what was causing the vibration.

We planned a day and time. He rode to my house. We chatted a few minutes, followed by me jacking the left front and removing the wheel. Put it on my dynamic balancer and sure enough the dealer had not correctly balanced, or never rebalanced the left front. Forget the exact imbalance, but believe it was about 1 ounce. The right side was checked and was in balance.

Again we chatted. I suggested to him, let me correctly dynamic balance both fronts on my balancer using the finest / race settings. So then, in under 30 minutes, I rebalanced both of his oem Kendas. Obviously, had him go for a test ride. He came back all smiles. While I do not endorse the speed he tested to, suffice to say, it was adequately fast with no vibrations.

That Spyder accomplished a long vacation trip from SoFlo up into the Carolinas. I got a phone call later from a very happy owner, no vibrations to over 100 mph. A few weeks ago, and now more than a year on those fronts, he called and said all is still great.

Still each time I read these vibration topics, it becomes apparent that even good dealers sometimes lack the skills to correctly balance Spyder tires. Even more possible is the shop lacks proper equipment to correctly balance Spyder stuff.

As for checking runouts, you can, but unless the tire has a hop to it, pretty much all but the best high performance tires will show some lateral and vertical runout.

FWIW, our Spyder, when new, had a nasty vibration. Initially I was under the impression it was normal. Within two weeks after purchase, I checked and did a true dynamic balance on our oem fronts. One side was close, the opposite side from oem was 1 1/4 ounces out of balance. Rebalanced both and vibration was gone. Fast forward about 8000 miles, I replaced both oem Kenda front tires with Federal Fomoza high performance car tires. Mounted and balanced them myself. Very, very smooth. Then about a year ago, I bought a used set of Centramatic balancers for the fronts for short money. Suffice to say that quality high performance lightweight car tires, installed and correctly balanced, as if a race tire setup, then have Centramatics as a finishing touch, about the only thing to make it check every box would be to skim the treads.

Correctly balance what you have, even if you pay the money to a tire shop, better still someone or a shop that does race cars.
 
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Reading these posts about new Spyders and even earlier Spyder having vibrations that are not drive belt related, reminds me of one local Spyder owner I helped. After several visits to his dealership, actually a very highly rated and respected dealership, the service department gave up and insisted the vibration was normal. The dealership even refused to work on the issue any further.
I offered to this owner to bring the Spyder by, as it was most likely improperly balanced front tire(s). Told him, within 15 minutes we would have a pretty good idea of exactly what was causing the vibration.

We planned a day and time. He rode to my house. We chatted a few minutes, followed by me jacking the left front and removing the wheel. Put it on my dynamic balancer and sure enough the dealer had not correctly balanced, or never rebalanced the left front. Forget the exact imbalance, but believe it was about 1 ounce. The right side was checked and was in balance.

Again we chatted. I suggested to him, let me correctly dynamic balance both fronts on my balancer using the finest / race settings. So then, in under 30 minutes, I rebalanced both of his oem Kendas. Obviously, had him go for a test ride. He came back all smiles. While I do not endorse the speed he tested to, suffice to say, it was adequately fast with no vibrations.

That Spyder accomplished a long vacation trip from SoFlo up into the Carolinas. I got a phone call later from a very happy owner, no vibrations to over 100 mph. A few weeks ago, and now more than a year on those fronts, he called and said all is still great.

Still each time I read these vibration topics, it becomes apparent that even good dealers sometimes lack the skills to correctly balance Spyder tires. Even more possible is the shop lacks proper equipment to correctly balance Spyder stuff.

As for checking runouts, you can, but unless the tire has a hop to it, pretty much all but the best high performance tires will show some lateral and vertical runout.

FWIW, our Spyder, when new, had a nasty vibration. Initially I was under the impression it was normal. Within two weeks after purchase, I checked and did a true dynamic balance on our oem fronts. One side was close, the opposite side from oem was 1 1/4 ounces out of balance. Rebalanced both and vibration was gone. Fast forward about 8000 miles, I replaced both oem Kenda front tires with Federal Fomoza high performance car tires. Mounted and balanced them myself. Very, very smooth. Then about a year ago, I bought a used set of Centramatic balancers for the fronts for short money. Suffice to say that quality high performance lightweight car tires, installed and correctly balanced, as if a race tire setup, then have Centramatics as a finishing touch, about the only thing to make it check every box would be to skim the treads.

Correctly balance what you have, even if you pay the money to a tire shop, better still someone or a shop that does race cars.

What's your take on the Centromeric balancers, do you think they are worth the money?? Did you leave your tire weights on with them or did you remove them?
 
What's your take on the Centromeric balancers, do you think they are worth the money?? Did you leave your tire weights on with them or did you remove them?

First off, it was pretty much agreed that the smaller size Centramatics are limited to how much imbalance they can control. Therefore, they do work best as a secondary balancing method on properly balanced wheels. So yes, all the weights were retained.

Do they work, the more narrow the rotating disc, the better they will work. So, yes they do work. How effective are they on the front of our Spyder, I had already correctly dynamically balanced our fronts, using weights as needed on each edge of the rim, obtaining balance within 1/10 ounce and no wobble or precession.

Yes, the Centramatics did improve the already good balance work. However, had these two Centramatics not been about 1/2 price, I could do without them. They are not a cure all for improper balance or a bad tire, but can make really good even smoother. Personally, if money is tight skip them, if you want a cool improvement, get the tires well balanced and install Centramatics.

What would be cool if I had time, would be to borrow my friends aircraft prop balancer and measure the Inches Per Second of vibration with and without the Centramatics. Time to do that is the issue though.
 
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