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Vibration...BRP's solution by the "Ostrich method

I have had two RS/GS. One with a tight belt and no vibration. One with a loose belt and vibration. Capt Jim's belt tensioner fixed the vibration in my present bike. I don't doubt that there are varying levels of this vibration in different bikes but in my experience it has always been there: Hardly noticeable when the belt was tight and hard to live with when the belt was loosened.

While you can wait for BRP to fix this you may be waiting a while. In the mean time your license plate frame will destroy itself, probably a fender bracket will break and the tail light will fall apart. I don't know how many loose relays can be attributed to this or how many other electrical problems can be caused by a bike shaking itself. They have never fixed the rear view mirrors that give you a clear view of your hands and nothing else. This is a much more serious issue in my mine and could easily be fixed by BRP. I fixed mine wwith one of the site sponsers mirror extensions. There are any number of other things that could be fixed easily but BRP is in the business of selling at the highest price with the least cost of goods sold. They are not in the business of making everyone happy.
 
I have to say that I am confused and perplexed by threads such as these. I have been riding for over 50 years, and if there is one thing I have learned, it is that motorcycles vibrate. Parts break and fall off. Fasteners have to be installed with Loctite and inspected frequently. It is inherent in the breed. Handlebars filled with lead shot, and bobweights on the end of the bars are common workarounds. The V-twins and vertical twins do have a harmonic vibration range, where the vibration is the worst. If the engine has a counterbalance system, it can be less, but they still vibrate. Parts have been breaking and falling off Triumphs and Harleys (and even Hondas) for many years. It is not all road-induced, a significant part comes from the machine

Yes, there are differences between individual machines, and if your vibration is worse than the average demo machine it should probably be addressed. It is my personal belief that much more of the difference is in the perception of the owners. An experienced old Fudd like me doesn't even notice them, even if the handlebars or tires shake. An novice owner used to driving his Cadillac may find even the slightest movement objectionable. In the end, however, you will never get rid of 100% of the vibration, so you might have to adjust or move on if it cannot be addressed.
 
I have no issues with what I would call excessive vibration. All v-twins vibrate, some more than others. Next time you pull up next to a Harley at a stop light take a look at what vibration really looks like. Some are worst than others but for the most part I find the Spyder to be a pretty smooth ride. My 109 has a spot about 4K that feels like it's tearing something up and that's on a shaft drive bike.
nojoke
 
Being an "old fudd" and having ridden several different brands and models, over the years, I concur
with Scotty and Lamonts statements!
 
I have had two RS/GS. One with a tight belt and no vibration. One with a loose belt and vibration. Capt Jim's belt tensioner fixed the vibration in my present bike. I don't doubt that there are varying levels of this vibration in different bikes but in my experience it has always been there: Hardly noticeable when the belt was tight and hard to live with when the belt was loosened.

While you can wait for BRP to fix this you may be waiting a while. In the mean time your license plate frame will destroy itself, probably a fender bracket will break and the tail light will fall apart. I don't know how many loose relays can be attributed to this or how many other electrical problems can be caused by a bike shaking itself. They have never fixed the rear view mirrors that give you a clear view of your hands and nothing else. This is a much more serious issue in my mine and could easily be fixed by BRP. I fixed mine wwith one of the site sponsers mirror extensions. There are any number of other things that could be fixed easily but BRP is in the business of selling at the highest price with the least cost of goods sold. They are not in the business of making everyone happy.

BRP did 'fix' many of your concerns--- like the mirrors. The solution is called an RT------ ;-)

Here's a tip for those with vibrations at certain rpms in certain gears---- avoid those rpms in those gears. :-)

Gotta agree 100% with Scotty and Lamont. When I see my HD buddies at stoplights I'm amazed at the 'whole lotta shaking going on'. Spyder is amazingly smooth by comparison.
 
Harleys have the best-built mirrors on the Planet. :thumbup:
If they didn't, the glass would fall out of them in about three seconds... :roflblack:
 
Fly,
I can't believe that we're agreeing twice in one morning! :yikes:
"Avoid those rpms..."
That's why I stay right around 4000 rpm in top gear... :roflblack: :thumbup:
 
After over 21,000 miles I've finally gotten used to the vibration. It's become comforting to look down and verify that we're passing through 5400 RPM. It's helped that I've ridden with many other type bikes and noticed that they also vibrate, I was behind a HD trike and I couldn't believe the shake raddle and roll that was going on, at idle!
 
BRP did 'fix' many of your concerns--- like the mirrors. The solution is called an RT------ ;-)

Here's a tip for those with vibrations at certain rpms in certain gears---- avoid those rpms in those gears. :-)

Gotta agree 100% with Scotty and Lamont. When I see my HD buddies at stoplights I'm amazed at the 'whole lotta shaking going on'. Spyder is amazingly smooth by comparison.

Well, I guess if I had my choice I would take the "whole lotta shaking going on" when at a stop light, not at highway cruising speeds.

So what you are saying is as long as I "avoid those rpms in those gears" I should be happy. :-) Well after spending 30 grand for a bike I expected a little more than a bike that idles smooth at stop lights but can not be run faster than the upper fifties:(

To me it seems some are reporting this problem and don't like it, some are reporting the same issue and don't care and the other third do not seem to have experienced this vibration at all. There are more than enough complaints just on this site alone that obviously there is an issue and BRP should address it. For me, my next step is to re-tighten the belt back to 750 newtons and if that solves the issue and all I have do is to change out the rear tire bearing with every new rear tire, so be it, it's only a $35 bearing and well worth it for not having the bike fall apart from shaking or spending the rest it's life staying below the high fifties.

I like the RT and have been lucky not to experienced any of the other issues being discussed on this forum, and I know this bike is still a baby in terms of development. It's design is a great concept but it will have growing pains as BRP sorts out these and new bugs that are yet to appear. So, we as a group of owners are no more than experimental riders that are working the bugs out for BRP. Hopefully, BRP is taking note of this issue as well as others that have been brought up and in a few years they will be nothing more than a distant memory!!
 
Well, I guess if I had my choice I would take the "whole lotta shaking going on" when at a stop light, not at highway cruising speeds.

So what you are saying is as long as I "avoid those rpms in those gears" I should be happy. :-) Well after spending 30 grand for a bike I expected a little more than a bike that idles smooth at stop lights but can not be run faster than the upper fifties:(

To me it seems some are reporting this problem and don't like it, some are reporting the same issue and don't care and the other third do not seem to have experienced this vibration at all. There are more than enough complaints just on this site alone that obviously there is an issue and BRP should address it. For me, my next step is to re-tighten the belt back to 750 newtons and if that solves the issue and all I have do is to change out the rear tire bearing with every new rear tire, so be it, it's only a $35 bearing and well worth it for not having the bike fall apart from shaking or spending the rest it's life staying below the high fifties.

I like the RT and have been lucky not to experienced any of the other issues being discussed on this forum, and I know this bike is still a baby in terms of development. It's design is a great concept but it will have growing pains as BRP sorts out these and new bugs that are yet to appear. So, we as a group of owners are no more than experimental riders that are working the bugs out for BRP. Hopefully, BRP is taking note of this issue as well as others that have been brought up and in a few years they will be nothing more than a distant memory!!
:lecturef_smilie: That would be a very bad idea, the bearing that was failing because of too high belt tension was not the wheel bearings but the counter shaft bearing. That calls for pulling the motor and splitting the case.
 
To me it seems some are reporting this problem and don't like it, some are reporting the same issue and don't care and the other third do not seem to have experienced this vibration at all.
I don't think that we haven't noticed it, it's just that it doesn't really bother us. I have ridden motorcycles that shook so hard they blurred my vision. The Spyder is a piece of cake. :)
 
I still don't understand... If you get the vibrations at certain RPMs then wouldn't that be engine / transmission related? Wouldn't belt related vibrations occur at certain speeds ?
 
First of all it's good to hear other people talking about vibrations. I get a very minor one around 5400 RPM regardless of the gear I am in so I agree with ShelbyDave and don't feel what I am experiencing is caused by the belt. I also agree with Nancystoy that V-twins tend to vibrate. I had a Honda VTX-1800R that vibrated more than I thought it should. Then I rode a Harley and decided the VTX was just fine. What I have seen on my 2012 RT-S pales compared to the VTX. But I'm a new owner about to enjoy the 600 mile inspection. I'm sure things will change as I acquire more mileage.

But I don't think I will worry about what I am seeing now that I have heard other people's experiences. This is a great forum and I appreciate all the knowledge I am gaining here.
 
To me it seems some are reporting this problem and don't like it, some are reporting the same issue and don't care and the other third do not seem to have experienced this vibration at all.

And then there are some who have ridden other motorcycles and miss the vibration...:thumbup:
 
If anyone is worried by vibrations then you don't want to ride my Tri Glide, My Spyder was much smoother but i didn't buy a Trike for smoothness, That's what cars are for.
My Spyder vibrated at a fixed rpm so i just didn't ride at that rpm problem solved.:dontknow:
 
After riding my C50 Suzuki at highway speeds I found out what real vibration was like. The sweet spot was from 40 t0 50 mph. Anything higher than that would rattle the fillings out of your teeth. LOL Now that I'm on the RT:spyder: the small band of vibration I get is no big deal. I guess it depends on what your used to. The highway speeds 60 to 70 mph are much more pleasant for me now.
 
The world is full of opnions on this so I thought I'd just add my two cents worth. After reading all of this, I'm certian we have two issues going on. The vibration problems associated only with RPM only are probable a motor mount issue whereas the speed only vibrations issues are belt related. Mine vibrates only at 70 - 75 MPH. I can elimate the vibration by simple applying or decreasing throttle. I makes a difference if I'm on a highway streatch at a slight incline, flat or declining. I have the smoothe spyder addition and have messed with belt tension. The only difference I can notice with each adjustment (either belt tension or smoothe spyder tension) is the speed at which the vibration occures. I can run right up to the red line in any gear (except 5th HA HA)with out the vibration happening as long as I don't go over 70 MPH. And yes, this happens in 4th gear AT 70MPH. Based on my experience, I'd say folks with an RPM only vibration, need to see their dealer to check motor mount clearance. It is a very high frequency vibration and is not to my liking. I've learned to live with it but that dosn't mean I'm happy about it. My back ground tells me that if I failed to compensate, while ridding at this speed, there would certianly be some kind of longer term damage to some part of the drive train, weather it be the engine, transmission or rear wheel bearings. Maybe all 3. JMHO
 
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