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Valve Adjustment

jtpollock

New member
Good Day to all, Sorry if this has been answered before I searched and did not find anything could be my search.

Anyway I am getting close to 70,000 miles and have not hade my valves adjusted and was wondering how you
have had the valves adjusted on your Spyder. Do they need adjusting how often are they out of adjustment.


I think back to the few problems I have had and spread them out over the 70,000 miles and my Spyder has
been very good. One problem that has been consistent is replacing the headlights and the one that caused me
a lot of headaches just burnt out again here goes another $100 to get it replaced. Sorry to ramble.


I you have any insight please give me your thoughts....:chat: jtpollock
 
Good Day to all, Sorry if this has been answered before I searched and did not find anything could be my search.

Anyway I am getting close to 70,000 miles and have not hade my valves adjusted and was wondering how you
have had the valves adjusted on your Spyder. Do they need adjusting how often are they out of adjustment.


I think back to the few problems I have had and spread them out over the 70,000 miles and my Spyder has
been very good. One problem that has been consistent is replacing the headlights and the one that caused me
a lot of headaches just burnt out again here goes another $100 to get it replaced. Sorry to ramble.


I you have any insight please give me your thoughts....:chat: jtpollock

Get led lights they do not burn out like OEM
 
Most say that on this type of valve actuation system valve adjustments aren't necessary unless you can hear valve clatter or you are losing power. My Goldwing partners always said that 90,000 would be a good time to check but it was very unusual for them to ever need adjustment. I never did need to do mine on my 2004 or 2009 Goldwings.
 
For what it's worth: Spyderjockey's GS has never had the top-end off of the engine...

Jim Van Cise GS Odometer.jpg
But each bike is ridden differently...
:agree: that hard starting would be an indication that some attention is needed.
But after 70,000 mile; perhaps your bike has earned a bit of love! :D
 
Most say that on this type of valve actuation system valve adjustments aren't necessary unless you can hear valve clatter or you are losing power. My Goldwing partners always said that 90,000 would be a good time to check but it was very unusual for them to ever need adjustment. I never did need to do mine on my 2004 or 2009 Goldwings.

This is actually not correct....
The valves get tighter as the valves seats wear. They do not get looser!
If you are not hearing them, worry...

Checking the valve adjustment is not that hard. Adjusting them (changing shims in the buckets) is harder as you have to remove the cam.

Bob
 
Varies....

I use a mechanics stethescope to listen to the valves. Generally you will hear them tapping but if there is a big differnce between them you should have them checked. BRP recommends at 14,800 but have not seen anyone needing the adjustment then. As mentioned above the checking is easy, more or less, the adjustment is a bit harder and you have to have a good shim stock....:thumbup:
 
The valves get tighter as the valves seats wear.

For the most part, this is correct. However, this is where the lack of power or general poor performance comes into play. As mentioned before, a listening tool will let you hear the natural click of the followers. An experienced ear can often detect an out-of-pattern click.
 
A difficult decision. Early on valve checks were done on two of my machines at 14K and 28K as recommended. Cost about $800 extra and in my case, no adjustments were needed. I am letting mine go to at least 50K on the 2011. The 2014 RT needs no adjustments.

At 70K, that is kind of a choice depending on your particular machine. Let us know what you decide to do. :thumbup:
 
I do know two people that had a 2010 RT and a 2012 RT that did have to have the valves adjusted at 14K.
One or 2 exhaust valves were tight.
Rare? Yes....
I checked mine at 14K and they were fine. I will do the check myself again at 28K (which is my next service).

Here is my take on it. If you are under warranty and do not have it done, you risk paying out of pocket if a valve fails.
If you have it done even if the dealer "fakes it" (And some have), you will be covered for a valve failure (basically a new engine).
If you are not in warranty, your on your own either case then.

My .0000002 cents.

Bob
 
THANKS TO ALL

Thanks to all that have replied a lot of helpful info. At 70,000 My Spyder was out of warranty within the first year got it due to the millage. I do not seem to have any power loss or performance issues, As for time for a little love yes its time for new plugs air filter and Oil got a new rear tire last spring :clap::yes: Oh Ya maybe son LED Headlights....... jtpollock
 
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