VALVE ADJUST, MILES

[SPYDERJEFF]

Just an FYI for ya all,

Valve adjustments we find are needed in the 15 to 19k range. Intakes and exhaust both can get tight and we have shimed at least a valve on every full service we have done above 15k. I know there is opinions accross the board on this subject but this is what we are seeing at the shop. Please have someone that cares and knows what thier doing work on your Spyder. To go 30k and not check your valves is crazy and if a shop tells you that go to a new shop. In addition at full service is the time to fix the crankcase breather issue with oil in the air box. With it apart this issue can be fixed at no cost. This fix is being done on 2012+ models at the factory. If you are having issues with oil in air box ask your dealer about it.


Jeff

 

[MRH]

Just an FYI for ya all,

Valve adjustments we find are needed in the 15 to 19k range. Intakes and exhaust both can get tight and we have shimed at least a valve on every full service we have done above 15k. I know there is opinions accross the board on this subject but this is what we are seeing at the shop. Please have someone that cares and knows what thier doing work on your Spyder. To go 30k and not check your valves is crazy and if a shop tells you that go to a new shop. In addition at full service is the time to fix the crankcase breather issue with oil in the air box. With it apart this issue can be fixed at no cost. This fix is being done on 2012+ models at the factory. If you are having issues with oil in air box ask your dealer about it.


Jeff

Jeff,

Can you explain to those of us with less technical competence why this is important, and what the potential consequences are for not doing it?

thanks,
Mark

 

[ARtraveler]

I am going to respectfully disagree with you on that. A very competent mechanic is watching his vehicles and I am going by that. I am up to 27,000 miles--but considering it at the end of the year service.

 

[AbNormy]

interval

so in my Pit Pass I bought with my bike the last service included is teh 15k. with valve adj. since I wound up going to a diff dealer for my 6k oil change, i'm hoping they can do the valve adj at 18k based on what you recommend. the new intervals state when running over 5k rpms > 10% of the time, more like >50-60% for me, that valve adjs should be more frequent. I've increased my shifting rpms and am enjoying much better mileage and wondered as long as i'm changing the oil often, if they really need to be checked more than say every 15k. anyone? :dontknow:

 

[prmurat]

I do not see the correlation between changing oil and the valves?? With the poor quality gas we have in the US I am sure the valve seats take a beating and valves are getting tight up there. Like with any performance engine (high rpm) I will get my valves checked around 15000/18000 miles and it should be ok for the rest of the life of the RT!!!

 

[Trickie Dick]

How long

How long does a valve check/adjustment take? What can one expect to pay?:dontknow:

 

[ARtraveler]

It adds about $600 to the regular oil change/inspect cost. Figure about $800.

 

[Bob Denman]

It sure ain't cheap! :shocked: But in comparison to BMWs... :yikes:
I'll take the spyder! :thumbup:

 

[Firefly]

I wonder if dealers are now stocking the shims? It used to be they didn't generally stock them--- so after they got your bike apart and noticed it needed them-- they'd order them....:banghead:

 

[r1100rider]

It sure ain't cheap! :shocked: But in comparison to BMWs... :yikes:
I'll take the spyder! :thumbup:

I guess that depends on the model with my boxer BMW you could adjust the valves roadside with the tools under the seat no extra parts in 10 minutes

 

[bikeguy]

:agree: As long as I had a couple of feeler gauges.

Cotton

 

[SPYDERJEFF]

Jeff,

Can you explain to those of us with less technical competence why this is important, and what the potential consequences are for not doing it?

thanks,
Mark

Simple as I can, over time the valve lash will begin to tighten up. If this clearance is allowed to become to tight (engine hard turning over is to tight by the way) the valves won't close fully. This then allows the hot combustion gases to blow past the valves and valve seats, burning and eroding the valve and seat faces. The excess heat can damage the valve guides as well. Once these are damaged the valve will no longer seal properly . In the end the valve will fail and loss of compression will occur along with other not so good things. We as a dealer go by BRP's tech schedule even though many people don't. BRP recommends getting them checked at 14k.

 

[billybovine]

Me Too

You mention a fix for the Oil in the Air Box. This is the first time I have seen anything about a cure from BRP. Did I miss something some time ago. From what you said it is a easy fix when the valve cover is removed. Can you be a little more detailed in what is done to make the problem go away. I can't see taking it to the dealer at $150 an hour as my valves are good but still pump oil.

Surprised no one else picked up on this.

Doc

I am also interested in BRP's Fix.

 

[gypsy_100]

Just an FYI for ya all,

Valve adjustments we find are needed in the 15 to 19k range. Intakes and exhaust both can get tight and we have shimed at least a valve on every full service we have done above 15k.

In addition at full service is the time to fix the crankcase breather issue with oil in the air box. With it apart this issue can be fixed at no cost. This fix is being done on 2012+ models at the factory. If you are having issues with oil in air box ask your dealer about it.
Jeff

Jeff, are we talking RT's here as well as RS's? I'd bet most RT's run at lower average rpm's than RS's which would translate into longer intervals for adjustment. Are you seeing the tight valves on RT's?

I, too, would like more info on the oil/airbox fix. Is this for RT's? They already have a foam filter in the entry to the airbox. But it is not foolproof. I know. Have they come up with something better?

 

[gypsy_100]

Jeff,

Can you explain to those of us with less technical competence why this is important, and what the potential consequences are for not doing it?

thanks,
Mark

In addition to the explanation Jeff gave, there is another thing going on that can happen before you actually get to the point that the valves are not closing. Camshaft profiles are very carefully determined, not just for the amount of "lift" or total opening but also to control the rate at which the valve is moving throughout its open-and-close cycle. One of the many characteristics in the profile is that when the camshaft is in the position where the valve is just about to settle onto the valve seat, the camshaft profile insures that the valve is set gently on the seat, i.e., the valve is moving more slowly. At the rpm's we're talking here you may laugh at the idea of "gently" setting the valve on the seat but it is true. You can set it down gently or you can slam it into the seat. If the clearance is off too much, then the valve will be set down on the seat at a different point on the camshaft profile, a point where the valve may be moving more rapidly and it will slam into the seat. The eventual effect of this is damaged valves or seats, requiring removal of the head to replace. Not something you ever want to do. Expensive valve adjustments are cheap compared to that. On the other hand, I certainly am not in favor of checking way before needed.

 

[Sarge707]

Is this something someone could do themselves ONCE they have the airbox off-Even if it takes a week of afternoons OR does it require Yee Ole BUDS just to check?:dontknow:

 

[Jeriatric]

Is this something someone could do themselves ONCE they have the airbox off-Even if it takes a week of afternoons OR does it require Yee Ole BUDS just to check?:dontknow:

It requires one special BRP tool as far as I have heard and you would need the proper shims. Not sure how varied the sizes are. Other than that....having the will, time, and knowhow should do it.


:spyder::hun:

 

[NancysToy]

.....are we talking RT's here as well as RS's? I'd bet most RT's run at lower average rpm's than RS's which would translate into longer intervals for adjustment. Are you seeing the tight valves on RT's?

The valve inspection/adjustment intevals are the same for both models. They have just been lengthened by BRP, and the first valve check interval delayed from what it was before. Their current recommendation is every 14K...and they have put it in writing.

 

[docdoru]

They have just been lengthened by BRP, and the first valve check interval delayed from what it was before...

...with 14.28%.

 

[gypsy_100]

The valve inspection/adjustment intevals are the same for both models. They have just been lengthened by BRP, and the first valve check interval delayed from what it was before. Their current recommendation is every 14K...and they have put it in writing.

Thanks, Scotty. I recognize that. I was hoping to hear from Jeff as to whether the tight valves he's seeing are on both models at that mileage or just on the RS's. Practical knowledge versus what it says in the manual.