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USB Dual Power Install Question

Hokiev

New member
I just received the Dual USB Charger for my 2015 RTS from the SpyderTV special offer (thanks Pierre).

For those who have installed similar devices, where did you wire it to? I don't have a lot of knowledge when it comes to all things electrical on the Spyder so any specific details would be helpful. (I was able to install my TricLED side marker lights so I have some basic skills)

Thanks in advance.





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Free Dual USB - Clerification

How did you get that? I did not see anything on SpyderTV about it.

I need to clarify my statement above: There were lots of free items they included in the special if you purchased the rear trunk organizer including 2 drink holders, RAM ball mount, & trunk light. The Dual USB WAS NOT included but I had purchased at the same time and was thinking it was included. Sorry for the confusion.
 
Pictures of Dual USB

If you can post a photo of what it looks like we can probably show you some options.

Cruzr Joe

Joe,

Here are pictures. It is a DC12V 3.1A switch. I know I can find a ground, just need a good + that will be easily accessibly that is only on when key is on (since there is an LED light that comes on when powered).

Any help is appreciated.

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Dual USB Adapter

Would like to mount one on dash of 2012 RT, to charge phone, etc.
Could you let me know the make and model of adapter, please - I have been looking, and haven't found one.
Thanks
Ken
 
Where to purchase

Would like to mount one on dash of 2012 RT, to charge phone, etc.
Could you let me know the make and model of adapter, please - I have been looking, and haven't found one.
Thanks
Ken

I know at least 2 who sell: One is Lamonster but his was out of stock.
I got my from Pierre who runs SpyderTV.net and Canamspyderaccessories.com
 
I have that exact same adapter. I got it online somewhere but don't recall where. It's in my garage waiting for me to get around to installing it.

Pam
 
Joe,

Here are pictures. It is a DC12V 3.1A switch. I know I can find a ground, just need a good + that will be easily accessibly that is only on when key is on (since there is an LED light that comes on when powered).

Any help is appreciated.

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That is designed to be installed in a blank spot in the switch group which the base RT has but the RT-S and RT-Ltd don't have. You can cut out the center round hole where the headset jack goes but it is a PITA to get that switch cluster off so you can access the backside of it. If you put it there there is a hot switched wire and ground wire going to each of the switches you can tap into.
 
That is designed to be installed in a blank spot in the switch group which the base RT has but the RT-S and RT-Ltd don't have. You can cut out the center round hole where the headset jack goes but it is a PITA to get that switch cluster off so you can access the backside of it. If you put it there there is a hot switched wire and ground wire going to each of the switches you can tap into.

My 2015 RTS DOES have a blank to install it in. In between the Suspension Switch and the Heated Hand Grip switch. I just need to know which + wire I should tap into so it does not cause current draw issues or Nanny issues. That is the help I am needing.
Still have not heard from anyone who has installed which wires I should tap into.

ANYONE?
 
My 2015 RTS DOES have a blank to install it in. In between the Suspension Switch and the Heated Hand Grip switch.
Have you pulled that blank off yet? If not what you will find is a round hole for the driver's CB & communication headset jack. That is the hole you will have to cut out into a rectangle to put your power outlet there.

I just need to know which + wire I should tap into so it does not cause current draw issues or Nanny issues. That is the help I am needing.
Still have not heard from anyone who has installed which wires I should tap into.

ANYONE?
If you choose to do that and want to connect it right close all four switches have a keyed 12 volt power line going to them, color orange with red stripe. All four also have a black ground wire. But pulling the switch cluster out is a PITA, but doable. There is also a power lead there for the fog lights which you could tap into. Otherwise, once you have the hole cut out run a fish wire of some sort toward the left side and tell us where it comes out. Then we can suggest where to tap into a full time or keyed power lead over there.
 
Have you pulled that blank off yet? If not what you will find is a round hole for the driver's CB & communication headset jack. That is the hole you will have to cut out into a rectangle to put your power outlet there.


If you choose to do that and want to connect it right close all four switches have a keyed 12 volt power line going to them, color orange with red stripe. All four also have a black ground wire. But pulling the switch cluster out is a PITA, but doable. There is also a power lead there for the fog lights which you could tap into. Otherwise, once you have the hole cut out run a fish wire of some sort toward the left side and tell us where it comes out. Then we can suggest where to tap into a full time or keyed power lead over there.

Thanks for the information. NO I have not pulled the blank and that would explain why I did not know there is a round hole instead of a rectangular hole under there. Had I known that I might not have bought the switch. That being said, once this 24+ snow blizzard event they are predicting gets through I will venture out to the bike barn (hoping it has not collapsed with the weight of the snow) and check the cluster and see what I can find regarding wiring to tap into.

Any danger taping into the + on either the fog light cluster or the rear suspension cluster for the power?
 
There is no good 12V at the switch panel. If you tap into something there then when you plug something in to charge it will act like you flipped the switch because it will complete the circuit. Also I never looked but I believe most those switches do not switch power but switch a signal to the ECM telling it to turn on something. So tapping here could cause can buss issues. But again I never looked up those switches in the service manual.

Your best bet is to run it to the fuse block and tap into a switched 12V like the headlights, or direct to the battery and add an inline fuse to the +12V wire if you want it powered when the key is off.

There is also a set of power wires for the optional 12V cig plug that goes in the front trunk. These would be perfect.

Bob
 
There is no good 12V at the switch panel. If you tap into something there then when you plug something in to charge it will act like you flipped the switch because it will complete the circuit. Also I never looked but I believe most those switches do not switch power but switch a signal to the ECM telling it to turn on something. So tapping here could cause can buss issues. But again I never looked up those switches in the service manual.

Your best bet is to run it to the fuse block and tap into a switched 12V like the headlights, or direct to the battery and add an inline fuse to the +12V wire if you want it powered when the key is off.

There is also a set of power wires for the optional 12V cig plug that goes in the front trunk. These would be perfect.

Bob
The LED on each of the four switches are on keyed power leads I mention above. They would be OK to tap into to. The fog light switch and heated grip switch each switch regular power loads so they would be OK to tap into. Those are on the load shedding relay and so are powered up after the engine starts. The compressor switch and parking brake switch each interrupt circuits to the cluster or parking brake module. Those you need to stay away from.

I agree. The best place to power a USB port is from the battery, or an added auxiliary power source connected to the battery.
 
I was thinking about adding a 12 volt outlet on my dash, but I changed my mind.
I use my phone for Bluetooth music, phone calls, GPS etc. Thought I would add an outlet to plug in.
Was at Best Buy, and for less than $50 I bought a small extra battery that gives me up to 27 hours of extra running time for my phone.
I put it with my phone on my handle bar mount and no cutting. I can also use it for my camera and Ipad. Anything needing USB power.

Don't think I'll be riding 27 hours straight, where I don't have a break to plug in and recharge.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the information. NO I have not pulled the blank and that would explain why I did not know there is a round hole instead of a rectangular hole under there. Had I known that I might not have bought the switch. That being said, once this 24+ snow blizzard event they are predicting gets through I will venture out to the bike barn (hoping it has not collapsed with the weight of the snow) and check the cluster and see what I can find regarding wiring to tap into.

Any danger taping into the + on either the fog light cluster or the rear suspension cluster for the power?

Thanks to all who responded above throughout the thread.

I ended up pulling power from the unused front trunk 12v lighter adapter port. Just pulled lead from behind the trunk wall and feed to control panel. Hardest thing was pulling the control panel off and getting enough free movement to get to the panel. Used a utility knife to make the round hole rectangular to fit switch. Got a short Apple lightning cord and perfect fit from USB to iPhone mounted using Lamenters Sypder Cuff with X-mount.
 
I was just gonna say ride on over to Louisa and I'll help you install it.
Got one on mine. Been wiring all sorts of things on all sorts of vehicles (wheeled, winged, and buoyant) since 1960. LOL
 
Quick disconnects

Don't forget the quick disconnect where needed.
Remember the techs have to get those panels off for service just a friendly reminder!:2thumbs:
 
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