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Unbelievable

BHawksworth

New member
18.9 miles on my Dad's new Spyder, and the engine light comes on.

I suppose I should just be grateful that it didn't go into limp mode.

I guess they haven't fixed these things.

Any ideas on how to check what the problem might be, or at least, if there's a way to look at codes?

Thanks
 
And now it won't even start. Won't shift to neutral. I can put high beams on and I can hear the charging system run up when I hit the start button, but the engine won't start.
 
Check the oil level

On my 2009 GS SE5 it happened to me once and at that time I removed the key , checked and interchanged the relays and it started fine. At home ,I checked the oil level and it was low, topped it off and the problem never occurred again.

Hope this helps and I really think it's low oil level.
 
P0480 - Radiator fan relay shorted to battery +

P0480 - Radiator fan relay shorted to ground or open circuit

Sounds like a bad fan relay or one that is improperly inserted. It could be a bad connector or damaged circuit wires. I have never heard of anyone else having this issue. If it weren't for bad luck, you'd have no luck at all.
 
I know, NancyToy, that's so true. I'll check the relay's in the morning. I'm too deep in the gin & tonics to do it now.

Only 18.9 miles and it won't drive you to drink ....or will it? What type of Spyder is it? I never had any ridding stoping problems with mine. I have a 2011 RS-S SE5. Only my dealer service department, they did more damage than good...I can't think of anything that they did right or good. Welcome the world of Spyders and don't worry things will only get better.

Mike
 
NancysToy - thanks, that was enough info for me to fix it. Checked the cooling fan relay and fuse, and the 5A fuse was blown. She's back to normal. Whew. I'm a bit on a hair trigger with these things.
 
NancysToy - thanks, that was enough info for me to fix it. Checked the cooling fan relay and fuse, and the 5A fuse was blown. She's back to normal. Whew. I'm a bit on a hair trigger with these things.



I know my fan fuze is 15 amps Are you sure it's a 5 amp fuze that is supposed to be in that slot ???
That would explain why the fuze blew.
 
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Well damn, Arntufun, I looked at the fuse ratings and you're right - it should be 15A. And the Cluster fuse next to it, which should be 5A, was 15A. So they'd been reversed! No wonder the thing blew! Any idea if that would be a factory issue or a dealer setup issue?
 
I'm happy to help !!!! :thumbup: As soon as you said it was a 5 amp, I knew what the problem was.

As you can tell I have experience with the fan fuze. My dealer put a 10 amp fuze in my fan slot and it kept popping fuzes and my Spyder would over heat. Many swear words were used in trying to diagnose it. :roflblack:
 
Larry, while there are fuses under the seat, I was talking about the fuses and relays in the box just above and to the right of the front compartment (standing in front of the bike looking toward its rear). You need to pull out the strip of plastic that covers it (mostly, you can still see it). Then remove the box cover. You'll see the smaller fuses and the larger black cubes are relays. The fuses are circuit protection, the relays route power to high draw systems. My problem was reversed fuses, the relays were not a problem. I'm guessing you can get them at an auto parts store, unless they're Can Am proprietary (not sure).
 
Well damn, Arntufun, I looked at the fuse ratings and you're right - it should be 15A. And the Cluster fuse next to it, which should be 5A, was 15A. So they'd been reversed! No wonder the thing blew! Any idea if that would be a factory issue or a dealer setup issue?

I would think the "fuse swap" would be a factory issue. Probably a vendor who supplies the fuse holders to BRP would most likely be the cluprit. Actually just thought about this, maybe the problem is the "15A" marked on the fuse is not in French as I think these things are manufactured in Quebec?

:dontknow:
 
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