Uh-oh - check engine and more :(

[Saskwatch]

So, I was excited to take my (new to me) Sypder on it's first weekend road trip on Saturday morning, and as I was driving across town getting ready to go the check engine light came on. I pulled over, turned it off, fired it back up, and it was still there.

For some background - I bought a 2011 RT with 9800 miles on it that I found here on the forums a few weeks ago.

I drove it home slowly and got it in my garage. I checked the oil and it was low - didn't register on the dipstick. I filled it up (took about 3/4 quart) and started it up - same light, no change. I drove it around the neighborhood, got it up to 3rd gear, and it seemed to be running fine, but the code wouldn't clear. I decided, with a very sad face, to take my car for our road trip, rather than ending up hundreds of miles from home with issues.

When I returned home yesterday I checked the oil - there was no leak, no spots (parked it the same place for weeks since I bought it) and I tried to fire it up again. The engine now rumbles and dies - and the light is still on.

The worst part about this is that I'm 1.5 hours from a registered dealer. The one place in town that does sell Can-Am is very unhappy with Can-Am because they used to sell the Spyders, but dropped the line because it didn't sell well, and Can-Am took away their ability to even check codes or do any service on the machine. So now I'm going to be nearly a week without my new $17K toy, and I have to find someone to trailer it a day away. And I get to take a day off work, in my busy season. Not what I'd planned for.

The thing that bugs me is that I bought this with super low miles, and the previous owner says he had the 9600 mile tune up/oil change done. I've only put on about 1500 miles since I bought it, so I hadn't checked the oil - my bad. Still, this came as a really disappointing surprise.

Fortunately the previous owner had the BEST warranty on it, and I'm covered until 2017. I was stupid and didn't transfer that warranty right away, and now I'm on hold with BRP (over 30 minute hold time) to try and get it transferred.

Any words of wisdom for me? My gut reaction is to think of of the many other toys I could have gotten for $17k...

 

[Trbayth]

Hold down Mode + Set + Turn Signal cancel to see what code, if any, is stored. Then post back so the Spyder-Smart people can respond.

Trb--

 

[Saskwatch]

Hold down Mode + Set + Turn Signal cancel to see what code, if any, is stored. Then post back so the Spyder-Smart people can respond.

Trb--

I just tried this, it won't even stay running long enough to pop a code now. Interesting that I can get a code that way - I asked two dealerships, and they said there was no way to get a code without bringing it to them. That makes me feel good.

 

[Trbayth]

If you have a smartphone, look for SpyderCodes app. Written by another SpyderLover member. Should be required equipment.

Trb--

 

[bruiser]

The engine doesn't have to be running to pull up a code. Just have the key on and the "run" screen up.

Step one- Check the battery connections and the charge.
Step two- Check the grounds.
Step three- Check the relays and make sure they are seated.
Step four- If you can pull the left panels, check the two vacuum hoses on the MAPP sensor. Make sure they are not cracked.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

I do not believe that it has to be running to get the codes, you just have to have the key on.

 

[Saskwatch]

The engine doesn't have to be running to pull up a code. Just have the key on and the "run" screen up.

Step one- Check the battery connections and the charge.
Step two- Check the grounds.
Step three- Check the relays and make sure they are seated.
Step four- If you can pull the left panels, check the two vacuum hoses on the MAPP sensor. Make sure they are not cracked.

Thank you for the good advice. I'm confused, though. The check engine light is no longer there, and no matter how long I leave it on (I only waited about 3 minutes) I don't get a code when I use that button combination. Should I wait longer, or am I doing something wrong?

 

[Trbayth]

I think if it doesn't display anything it means there are no codes stored. Weird.

I also think the button combination is touchy; you have to press all three simultaneously. No cheating by pressing two then adding the third one (I could be wrong about that though.)

Trb--

 

[Saskwatch]

I think if it doesn't display anything it means there are no codes stored. Weird.

I also think the button combination is touchy; you have to press all three simultaneously. No cheating by pressing two then adding the third one (I could be wrong about that though.)

Trb--

Got it - P0107

 

[oldgoat]

P0107 ECM Manifold air pressure sensor voltage too low

 

[Colin]

Taken from another Post here

Got it - P0107

P0107:
Damaged sensor, damaged circuit wires,
damaged connector or damaged ECM pins,
ECM voltage supply Low.

 

[billybovine]

P0107 Manifold air pressure sensor voltage too low. Damaged sensor wires or low voltage ECM.

First guess low battery voltage or loose connection.

 

[Saskwatch]

P0107 Manifold air pressure sensor voltage too low. Damaged sensor wires or low voltage ECM.

First guess low battery voltage or loose connection.

So, being a non-technical person, it looks like this will have to be fixed by a dealer, right? Being 70 miles from a dealer without a trailer to haul it might have been a bad decision on my part, I just didn't foresee this as a possibility. Guess I just got lucky :firstplace:

 

[billybovine]

So, being a non-technical person, it looks like this will have to be fixed by a dealer, right? Being 70 miles from a dealer without a trailer to haul it might have been a bad decision on my part, I just didn't foresee this as a possibility. Guess I just got lucky :firstplace:

If you or a friend has a good quality battery charger that has a motorcycle mode on it, maybe charge the battery overnight first and see what happens.

 

[Colin]

Maybe you could try your local guy that used to deal with Spyders. If you give him the Fault Code and what it means, he
may have come across the same issue before. Worth a try before having to haul your Spyder to another Dealer.

 

[jcthorne]

Check and clean the battery connections. Check the battery charge level. Usually these voltage out of range errors are battery problems not the sensor. How old is the battery?

 

[ulflyer]

Once your Best warranty is transferred over, it includes towing.

 

[oldguyinTX]

Once your Best warranty is transferred over, it includes towing.

True, but it is a $200.00 Allowance. You have to pay any overage.

 

[Saskwatch]

True, but it is a $200.00 Allowance. You have to pay any overage.

Wow, I wish the dealership would have told me that. They also wouldn't tell me how to get the code, and you guys were able to tell me how to in less than 5 minutes. I guess I should learn that SpyderLovers is a better source than the guys I'm working with (Rays Sport and Cycle - Grand Rapids, MN).

So I got a truck/trailer to tow the four hours round trip, and the bikes gonna be parked there for one to three weeks. They checked the front cylinder and found there was no compression. That was at about 2pm today, and they said they'd call me by the end of the day with an ETA on how long it's going to take to fix it. They closed a half hour ago without calling me.

They also said there's a chance the BEST warranty might not cover the issue, but most likely it will. I guess I'll know tomorrow hopefully when I get the thing back. I have owned it for about three weeks, and it looks like I might have three weeks in the shop. Impressive for a $17k purchase with less than 10K miles on it.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Don't let them tell you that BEST won't cover it. Fight, fight, fight.