I repaired mine, then glued a heavier piece of styrene plastic behind the screw hole for reinforcement. This is a weakness with the design. If you tighten the screw too hard, it cracks the plastic. Sometimes it just cracks from vibration. Others have replaced the light with a modified Walmart taillight/brake light.Well...my second license plate light cover is now destroyed!!! Why do they make the part where the screw goes in plastic???? As I was warming my bike it just fell right off...screw was still in it's place....frustrating!:gaah:
I sent an e-mail to BRP, I shouldn't have to replace this part for a third time because they made it poorly!![]()
Check the thread "Working license/tail light," by McGuire on 09/18/09.
It has pictures and all you need to make an improved light cheap.
I did this and connected the 21 watt brake light wire to the spyder orange wire while drilling a dozen 1/4 inch holes in the underside of the lense (You can,t see them at all). Lights up the license nice and provides a bright fender light!
Now the 2 (Upper) running/brake lights in combo with the center light equal the fender light in the running mode and when you hit the brakes the 3 upper lights POP out at you .
I agree that they should replace this part again. If they do, put a dab of RTV silicone on the screw hole on the bracket, before you install the lens, then put the screw in just over finger tight. Allow to dry overnight, and it should stay put without cracking again. If you want, use some plastic cement and glue a piece of styrene to the back of the screw boss for reinforcement, before you reinstall it.
Well...my second license plate light cover is now destroyed!!! Why do they make the part where the screw goes in plastic???? As I was warming my bike it just fell right off...screw was still in it's place....frustrating!:gaah:
If you go to extremekempy.com you will see a new one he has that replaces the light and the ugly reflector.:2thumbs:
Unfortunately, the clear plastic that allows light on the license plate cracked in several parts too!
I put silcone around the lip then push it back on then If you want super glue it till you need a new light like in 5 to 6 yrs:doorag:Well...my second license plate light cover is now destroyed!!! Why do they make the part where the screw goes in plastic???? As I was warming my bike it just fell right off...screw was still in it's place....frustrating!:gaah:
If you decide to modify a store bought light, I saw where someone used the clear plastic from an old cassette case instead of using the one from the old reflector. If you are too young to have any old cassette cases, I am sure I can find one in my basement!
I used to have some of those cassette tapes, but I don't know what happened to them! I'm guessing a dvd plastic case would work as well?? I actually was watching that light and was planning on bidding on it. I can't afford the more expensive one right now because I just bought new rims for the :spyder2:.
Take an old CD or DVD case and cut a plastic reinforcement disc for the back, where the screw goes through. An X-Acto knife works best...or a single edged razor blade. Glue it to the back of the screw boss with model airplane glue. Let it dry overnight. Drill a hole through the original screw hole and the reinforcement. Mount it on the Spyder, and don't tighten it too tight. There is nothing to bottom out, and the bracket is flimsy, which is why the lens breaks from over-tightening. Don't forget the RTV silicone on the screw hole before you put the lens back on and install the screw. For more security, you can use RTV silicone around the outside edge of the lens, too, either hidden, or a couple of dags underneath. It will be harder to get off to change a bulb, though. Let that dry overnight, and you should be set for a while. Take the broken one to your dealer, and see if they will replace it under warranty. Pays to have a spare.I bid and won the light, so this is my 3rd one. If this one breaks, I'll get something else.
Take an old CD or DVD case and cut a plastic reinforcement disc for the back, where the screw goes through. An X-Acto knife works best...or a single edged razor blade. Glue it to the back of the screw boss with model airplane glue. Let it dry overnight. Drill a hole through the original screw hole and the reinforcement. Mount it on the Spyder, and don't tighten it too tight. There is nothing to bottom out, and the bracket is flimsy, which is why the lens breaks from over-tightening. Don't forget the RTV silicone on the screw hole before you put the lens back on and install the screw. For more security, you can use RTV silicone around the outside edge of the lens, too, either hidden, or a couple of dags underneath. It will be harder to get off to change a bulb, though. Let that dry overnight, and you should be set for a while. Take the broken one to your dealer, and see if they will replace it under warranty. Pays to have a spare.