• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Two Oil Observations ... I think ...

I seriously doubt that any oil anywhere in the system would have an observable difference in color or consistency. Really, think about that...the dark color comes from soot and the particle size is far smaller than a filter can remove.
 
I seriously doubt that any oil anywhere in the system would have an observable difference in color or consistency. Really, think about that...the dark color comes from soot and the particle size is far smaller than a filter can remove.

Heavier particles will settle out as the oil cools and sits. In days gone by, it would build up and cause sludge issues over time. This is why they added detergents to oil. These detergents help to scrub the settled out contaminants as the oil circulates. But they still settle out as described. This is why it's good to not only run the engine, but also ride the machine before an oil change. Since the transmission is also involved, spinning those gears is important to stir the oil in those cavities. It won't come out if it isn't suspended.
 
* I recently changed to Amsoil 10-40 Metric
* I can now go 9,000 miles before an oil change
* I put about 3K+ miles a year on my 2018 F3L
* It takes me three years to go 9,000 miles
Questions:
* Is it smart to run that oil for three years before a change?
* Should I just change out the filter every year/season?
* Or?
 
* I recently changed to Amsoil 10-40 Metric
* I can now go 9,000 miles before an oil change
* I put about 3K+ miles a year on my 2018 F3L
* It takes me three years to go 9,000 miles
Questions:
* Is it smart to run that oil for three years before a change?
* Should I just change out the filter every year/season?
* Or?

I went 4.5 years on an oil change on my Spyder. Had the oil (Amsoil 10/40 Metric) tested and it came out with flying colors. And I live in a high humidity environment.

I don't recommend this for all oils. But if you're using Amsoi, you can go with the mileage pretty much no matter how long it takes to get there.

I don't always believe in 'You get what you pay for' as there are some great deals out there. But for Amsoil, I think it holds true.
 
* Thanks Ron. I always trust your judgment and knowledge.
* What do you think about just changing out the filter before reaching the 9K?
 
I realize this question was for Ron but if you consider that a used filter has better filtration (some of the pores have larger particles in them) than a new one (unless its plugged); I see no benefit in changing the filter other than you may have to add a bit of new oil to replace the oil that is in the element itself. JMO
 
* Thanks Ron. I always trust your judgment and knowledge.
* What do you think about just changing out the filter before reaching the 9K?

If it makes you feel better. But it would be a waste of time, in my opinion. I didn't change the filter on my 4.5 year unintended experiment. The analysis came out identical to all previous, and those since. Amsoil really protects internal parts in storage. Frankly, I was quite surprised. I expected iron to be higher as if moisture gets to the surface of the internal iron parts they will rust. When you start the engine, that rust goes into suspension and it will be fine enough to escape the filter and show up as elevated iron levels. Iron, along with all other parameters, were well below average.
 
I always wondered if running full synth such as Amsoil, if simply changing the filter would keep it serviceable. Never done it, but I had heard that full synth oil keeps its viscosity better, and you just need to get the contaminants out.

On another note, Ron, I still have your spring compressors that I used to put the shock doo hickeys in. I keep meaning to send them back. Have they gone up?
 
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I always wondered if running full synth such as Amsoil, if simply changing the filter would keep it serviceable. Never done it, but I had heard that full synth oil keeps its viscosity better, and you just need to get the contaminants out.

On another note, Ron, I still have your spring compressors that I used to put the shock doo hickeys in. I keep meaning to send them back. Have they gone up?

I believe we did have to raise the price on those awhile back. Our costs keep going up. But in reality, costs remain the same. It's the value of our dollar that continues to recede.
 
I did finally 'break down' and use the Amsoil metric 10/40 on my recent change. I do believe that I could tell the difference on smoothness of the engine and a maybe a small increase in mpg. I was hoping for some improvement in the 'clunk' to first or reverse gear, but no improvement there. I know, it's normal and just the way it works, unless you want to let it idle and warm the oil a bit, which is not advisable in the garage. Can't help but have that pucker factor just a bit when the 'clunk' happens.
 
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I know, it's normal and just the way it works, unless you want to let it idle and warm the oil a bit, which is not advisable in the garage. Can't help but have that pucker factor just a bit when the 'clunk' happens.

You're right. It is simply a matter of physics and design. Start worrying if it doesn't clunk!:rolleyes:
 
Always pay attention to your comments Ron, an put serious confidence in what you say. Not sure about the
'eye roll', I did quantify my comment that's "just the way it works", so it's not a concern, just a comment, that's all.
 
Always pay attention to your comments Ron, an put serious confidence in what you say. Not sure about the
'eye roll', I did quantify my comment that's "just the way it works", so it's not a concern, just a comment, that's all.

No worries. The 'Start worrying if it doesn't clunk' was not a serious comment. Hence the eyeroll. Nothing to do with what you said.
 
Do you have the part # for the K&N filter? I just changed my oil and filter, $174, and the OEM price is high...
 
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I change the Spyder oil once a year, now with Amsoil at Ron's rally. I still have warranty left. We don't put much mileage on the bike now. We trailer to the rally's we go to. So whether we only have 3,000 miles it gets fresh oil and filter. If we put more miles on I know we are good to go. I have a great dealer, but not great prices. LOL $325 for a semi synthetic oil change is hard to swallow. Plus when you go to Ron, you get to meet the man and chew the fat with what I call, an old time throw back guy. If you have met Ron you know what I mean. Down to earth, honest, treats everyone like family. We are lucky to have three shops run by three men such as this. Lamont, Ron and Harvey. They live and breath SPYDERS!
 
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