• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Trunk that will fit BRP quick attach backrest

Q

Questions

New member
I'm looking for a rear trunk that will use the great mounting system of the BRP optional rear plate/backrest. I hate to give up that expensive system to mount another type of trunk mount. Any suggestions? (maybe I'll have to sell my backrest/plate and start over?) Please PM if you have an answer.;)
 
lonlawrence said:
I'm looking for a rear trunk that will use the great mounting system of the BRP optional rear plate/backrest. I hate to give up that expensive system to mount another type of trunk mount. Any suggestions? (maybe I'll have to sell my backrest/plate and start over?) Please PM if you have an answer.;)
Click to expand...

Here are some shots of the Sears trunk ($33 + shp also available at JC Whitney) that bolts easily to the sport rack plate. Made in China not Italy like Givi, but for the price, it works great. Three small holes drilled in the sport rack plate and you can then eaither use the integrated trunk release to remove the trunk or use the under seat release to take the entire unit off when you want to use the backrest.

searscase002.jpg
searscase001.jpg
searscase004.jpg

searscase003.jpg
 
Thanks to all that replied

I want to thank all you who replied to help me with a trunk that would fit on my sport rack. I was going to buy the sears one... heck of a good price... but, of course, they are all out of stock and no timeline to get more. They are almost double that price at JC Whitney ($42.50 vs $72), so I'm stuck again. I hate sears. They pull that crap all the time. They remind me of wal-mart. I guess I'll wait awhile and see if they ever get more in. I hate to pay $72 for the same thing at jc whitney. And Givi prices are ridiculous!

If anyone has the large sears one they want to get rid of and get a smaller one... I'll buy it from you!
 
lonlawrence said:
I want to thank all you who replied to help me with a trunk that would fit on my sport rack. I was going to buy the sears one... heck of a good price... but, of course, they are all out of stock and no timeline to get more. They are almost double that price at JC Whitney ($42.50 vs $72), so I'm stuck again. I hate sears. They pull that crap all the time. They remind me of wal-mart. I guess I'll wait awhile and see if they ever get more in. I hate to pay $72 for the same thing at jc whitney. And Givi prices are ridiculous!

If anyone has the large sears one they want to get rid of and get a smaller one... I'll buy it from you!
Click to expand...

Consider yourself lucky...I ordered from Sears...only to find out 3 weeks later that they were out and not getting any more in for some time!
 
OK, called sears... here's the deal.. they buy the trunks from JC Whitney which hasn't supplied them with the trunks for some time. They have them ordered, but JC Whitney won't send them. Probably because financially-unsound sears doesn't pay their bills, or maybe because they don't want sears selling them for half the price JC Whitney does. Anyway, I ordered it from JC Whitney (they had them both in stock) for $72 vs $42 at sears and should have it next week. Still beats the pants off Givi prices.
 
lonlawrence said:
OK, called sears... here's the deal.. they buy the trunks from JC Whitney which hasn't supplied them with the trunks for some time. They have them ordered, but JC Whitney won't send them. Probably because financially-unsound sears doesn't pay their bills, or maybe because they don't want sears selling them for half the price JC Whitney does. Anyway, I ordered it from JC Whitney (they had them both in stock) for $72 vs $42 at sears and should have it next week. Still beats the pants off Givi prices.
Click to expand...


Good luck :clap:- I did look at the Sears/JC Whitney route but the fit and finish was important to me and it is quite different between those and the Givi and the final decision was the thin metal base plate that will certainly rust. The Givi WITH the Givi base plate can be had new for almost what you paid - see example- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GIVI...torcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_2787wt_941

Keep that in mind if the JC Whitney doesn't work out. Either way you end up with more storage which is what you were looking for. :congrats:
 
OK, thanks, but you're comparing apples to oranges. That trunk is smaller than the one I'm getting. Sears and JC Whitney have two sizes, Med and LG. I ordered Large. The one you posted looks like the medium size, or even smaller (26 liters.... the smallest trunk Givi makes). Can't get two helmets in that one. However, that is the best Givi price I've seen, but I doubt I could find a Givi trunk in the larger size for less than twice what I'm paying for this one. If I don't like the quality, I can send it back, but a LOT of people on this forum use the sears/JC trunk and have nothing bad to say about it.
 
OK here it is. I got my JC Whitney trunk, the Large one, and it's not large enough for two full-face helmets, but ALMOST! I decided to go the route one other guy on here went and that was to leave the Spyder backrest on the trike and mount the trunk behind it. The other guy that did this, and posted pictures, claimed that with just two "L" brackets (appear to be 1/8" thick metal) that it was very stable and some guys questioned him about it bouncing up and down. He claimed it didn't. Well... I used metal that was 1/4" thick and trust me... it will bounce up and down. No way it can be stable with two "L" brackets regardless how thick the metal is. (I also chose to raise it off the Spyder Backrest lock tab) So I triangulated it and put a brace on the rear (no holes to drill in anything except the mount bracket... I used all factory holes and longer bolts). I also removed the hard backrest from the trunk so that I could set it closer to the Spyder backrest and still be able to open the trunk fully. My wife wanted me to leave the Spyder backrest on because it wraps around her and feels more secure than that hard pad on the trunk that cuts into her back. I posted the pictures here and you can click on them to enlarge them or download them: http://gallery.me.com/dr.pepper007#100859
 
Last edited:
lonlawrence said:
OK here it is. I got my JC Whitney trunk, the Large one, and it's not large enough for two full-face helmets, but ALMOST! I decided to go the route one other guy on here went and that was to leave the Spyder backrest on the trike and mount the trunk behind it. The other guy that did this, and posted pictures, claimed that with just two "L" brackets (appear to be 1/8" thick metal) that it was very stable and some guys questioned him about it bouncing up and down. He claimed it didn't. Well... I used metal that was 3/16" thick and trust me... it will bounce up and down. No way it can be stable with two "L" brackets regardless how thick the metal is. (I also chose to raise it off the Spyder Backrest lock tab) So I triangulated it and put a brace on the rear (no holes to drill in anything except the mount bracket... I used all factory holes and longer bolts). I also removed the hard backrest from the trunk so that I could set it closer to the Spyder backrest and still be able to open the trunk fully. My wife wanted me to leave the Spyder backrest on because it wraps around her and feels more secure than that hard pad on the trunk that cuts into her back. I posted the pictures here and you can click on them to enlarge them or download them: http://gallery.me.com/dr.pepper007#100859
Click to expand...


Nicely thought out. I like the additional strength that the triangulation provides
 
lonlawrence said:
OK here it is. I got my JC Whitney trunk, the Large one, and it's not large enough for two full-face helmets, but ALMOST! I decided to go the route one other guy on here went and that was to leave the Spyder backrest on the trike and mount the trunk behind it. The other guy that did this, and posted pictures, claimed that with just two "L" brackets (appear to be 1/8" thick metal) that it was very stable and some guys questioned him about it bouncing up and down. He claimed it didn't. Well... I used metal that was 3/16" thick and trust me... it will bounce up and down. No way it can be stable with two "L" brackets regardless how thick the metal is. (I also chose to raise it off the Spyder Backrest lock tab) So I triangulated it and put a brace on the rear (no holes to drill in anything except the mount bracket... I used all factory holes and longer bolts). I also removed the hard backrest from the trunk so that I could set it closer to the Spyder backrest and still be able to open the trunk fully. My wife wanted me to leave the Spyder backrest on because it wraps around her and feels more secure than that hard pad on the trunk that cuts into her back. I posted the pictures here and you can click on them to enlarge them or download them: http://gallery.me.com/dr.pepper007#100859
Click to expand...

Now that is an excellent job. One of the best I've seen so far. I sent you a PM>
 
lonlawrence said:
The other guy that did this, and posted pictures, claimed that with just two "L" brackets (appear to be 1/8" thick metal) that it was very stable and some guys questioned him about it bouncing up and down. He claimed it didn't. Well... I used metal that was 3/16" thick and trust me... it will bounce up and down. No way it can be stable with two "L" brackets regardless how thick the metal is.
Click to expand...

Hey lonlawrence...
I assume "the other guy" you are referring to above is me as I was the one that originally mounted the trunk behind the seat. I can tell you after 2000 miles with the 2 "L" brackets the it really doesn't bounce around much. I think because the angle of the L brackets cause enough down force on the adjustment handle, the bouncing is limited. That being said I am very impressed with your design. I trust you are using 3/16" steel for the material. Did you consider using 1/8"x1" aluminum stock??
Nice job man!!! :2thumbs:
 
SLEDHED: I'm sorry, I don't remember where I saw the pics of the first mount somewhere on here, but it was probably you. I would have given you credit if I'd remembered. Yes, I assumed that you had down-pressure on the flip handle to keep it from bouncing "down", and that may have saved you. I wanted it "level" (90 degree angle brackets will give you "down" pressure because it isn't level), and I didn't want it rubbing the flip-handle for the backrest. (I also wanted it high enough that the backrest on the trunk didn't hit the spyder backrest when fully open and I wanted to mount it close to the spyder backrest, so that made it necessary to raise it. Even with the backrest on the trunk removed, I still don't have much room when fully open as you can see in the pictures). I think you mentioned you may try to take some of the pressure off the flip-handle? Well... don't do it. It bounces very freely on angle brackets (yes, I used 1/4" steel (not 3/16"... that was a misprint.. I'll correct that in my post. Yours are 1/8" right?) However, the bouncing is not from my thick metal. It's from the long screws that mount it to backrest, plus the backrest moves a little, the screws move a little, and thin plastic of the trunk flexes a little and the quick-mount latch between the trunk and the mounting plate has quite a bit of up/down movement. Combine all that and it does bounce a lot, in fact violently when crossing a railroad track. It would be better with some weight in it.

I considered using aluminum, but didn't for several reasons. One was the fact that aluminum has to be thicker than steel to keep it from flexing. 2. It's harder to weld and I don't have a tig welder... and I didn't find any large aluminum "L" brackets. 3. It also fatigues quicker than steel in a constant flexing motion. 4. it's harder to paint. I have worked extensively with both aluminum and steel building airplanes, so I'm pretty familiar with the properties of both and decided I'd rather work with steel. It's more forgiving and easier to work with.
 
lonlawrence said:
OK here it is. I got my JC Whitney trunk, the Large one, and it's not large enough for two full-face helmets, but ALMOST! I decided to go the route one other guy on here went and that was to leave the Spyder backrest on the trike and mount the trunk behind it. The other guy that did this, and posted pictures, claimed that with just two "L" brackets (appear to be 1/8" thick metal) that it was very stable and some guys questioned him about it bouncing up and down. He claimed it didn't. Well... I used metal that was 3/16" thick and trust me... it will bounce up and down. No way it can be stable with two "L" brackets regardless how thick the metal is. (I also chose to raise it off the Spyder Backrest lock tab) So I triangulated it and put a brace on the rear (no holes to drill in anything except the mount bracket... I used all factory holes and longer bolts). I also removed the hard backrest from the trunk so that I could set it closer to the Spyder backrest and still be able to open the trunk fully. My wife wanted me to leave the Spyder backrest on because it wraps around her and feels more secure than that hard pad on the trunk that cuts into her back. I posted the pictures here and you can click on them to enlarge them or download them: http://gallery.me.com/dr.pepper007#100859
Click to expand...

Nice job. I see that you followed the idea that some of us did in removing the ugly orange trim strip and painting it to match your Spyder, Big improvement. Could you share the dimensions of your brackets with us so we don't have to start from scratch?
 
All good points lonlawrence. I am considering just making the piece that goes from the underside of the wheel well up to the bottom of the mounting plate that came with the trunk. I expect this to not be as secure as yours but it will certainly alleviate the pressure that I get on the adjustment handle.
Thanks for the feedback and for sharing your design. That's what I love about this forum... LOTS of smart/creative people on here!!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Fjrwillie
2023 RT Limited - First Observations/Comparison to 2015 RT-S
Replies
2
Views
1K
blacklightning
blacklightning
Peter Aawen
  • Locked
  • Sticky
PLEASE UPLOAD, ATTACH, AND INSERT ALL PICTURES/IMAGES AS THUMBNAILS!
Replies
18
Views
1K
Peter Aawen
Peter Aawen
J
F3T rear shock needed - will an RT Shock fit?
Replies
11
Views
500
jvs04
J
Arion
HowTo: RT seat and trunk shock strut replacement
2
Replies
23
Views
5K
bikerbillone
B
FROGMAN
My Accessories installation - progress & tips
Replies
5
Views
1K
Allen42
A
Back
Top