• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Tri-Axis Handlebars Installed

PW2013STL

Active member
Just finished installing the Tri-Axes handlebars as the frist farkle. On the 2014 and maybe earler RT's you do not remove the frunk, but you do remove the windsheild assemlbly with motor, headlights, Dash, center conusel. The whole top end!
The instructions show removing the frunk and the seat cables from the switch and letting them lay to the side, but what happened to me is the plastic section on the end of the cables snapped off upon removal. It is possable to just leave the cables connected at that point and with needle nose pliers disconnect the cable where the ferrule connects to the switch. You need to have access to the bolts behind the cables.
I had to order new cables as supper gluing the ends on did not hold and I was told the the cables are on back order.
FYI make sure the black cover piece is on frist so you do not have to redo the complete install (don't ask):banghead:
 

Attachments

  • Tri-aexes 005.jpg
    Tri-aexes 005.jpg
    54.7 KB · Views: 120
  • Tri-aexes 006.jpg
    Tri-aexes 006.jpg
    48.2 KB · Views: 110
  • Tri-aexes 007.jpg
    Tri-aexes 007.jpg
    57.9 KB · Views: 91
  • Tri-aexes 008.jpg
    Tri-aexes 008.jpg
    72.9 KB · Views: 124
  • Tri-aexes 009.jpg
    Tri-aexes 009.jpg
    68.6 KB · Views: 127
How long did this transplant surgery take?? :shocked:
( I keep looking at those bars; I always wanted a little bit more pullback on my 2010, and I SWEAR that the 2014 bars need even more...)
 
Just finished installing the Tri-Axes handlebars as the frist farkle. On the 2014 and maybe earler RT's you do not remove the frunk, but you do remove the windsheild assemlbly with motor, headlights, Dash, center conusel. The whole top end!
The instructions show removing the frunk and the seat cables from the switch and letting them lay to the side, but what happened to me is the plastic section on the end of the cables snapped off upon removal. It is possable to just leave the cables connected at that point and with needle nose pliers disconnect the cable where the ferrule connects to the switch. You need to have access to the bolts behind the cables.
I had to order new cables as supper gluing the ends on did not hold and I was told the the cables are on back order.
FYI make sure the black cover piece is on frist so you do not have to redo the complete install (don't ask):banghead:

Don't feel bad about the black cover below the bars. Its installation is missing from the instructions and I missed that step when installing the tri-axis bars on BOTH of our bikes. Yep, back up a bunch and try again. Hope your replacement cables come in soon.
 
How long did this transplant surgery take?? :shocked:
( I keep looking at those bars; I always wanted a little bit more pullback on my 2010, and I SWEAR that the 2014 bars need even more...)

At this point I think I have 5 hours into it not counting the two hours trying to remove the Frunk:banghead: I had read someones post that said that you had to remove it and you do not.
 
Don't feel bad about the black cover below the bars. Its installation is missing from the instructions and I missed that step when installing the tri-axis bars on BOTH of our bikes. Yep, back up a bunch and try again. Hope your replacement cables come in soon.

Yep a definite pain and I agree the instructions could be better. I take it you did not have the cable issue?
 
Many that have installed them have nothing but good to say about them. The install looks scary. Don't think I would even trust the dealer mechanics to do that one. :roflblack:
 
Wow, that looks like a large first farkle to embark on! :yikes:

I think I'll pass. I'm sure they'll be worth it when completed! :thumbup:

Hope to get a ryde in with you this year sometime! :yes::yes::yes:
 
At this point I think I have 5 hours into it not counting the two hours trying to remove the Frunk:banghead: I had read someones post that said that you had to remove it and you do not.


But it makes the rest of the job much easier. The frunk is only held on by 6 bolts. There are 4 electrical connectors that unplug once the bolts are out and it lifts up and forward. Takes only a few minutes.
 
Yep a definite pain and I agree the instructions could be better. I take it you did not have the cable issue?

No, I've dealt with these type cables before and kinda knew where to pry to get them un-clipped and then out of the clevis. I put my thumb over the clip and pull with my index finger, they pop right out, then unhook from the clevis.
 
Many that have installed them have nothing but good to say about them. The install looks scary. Don't think I would even trust the dealer mechanics to do that one. :roflblack:

Come on over, I'll give you a hand. Its not nearly as bad as it looks. Just long job.


Course my memory is not what it used to be either......
 
But it makes the rest of the job much easier. The frunk is only held on by 6 bolts. There are 4 electrical connectors that unplug once the bolts are out and it lifts up and forward. Takes only a few minutes.

I believe the 2014 is different in that it is held on with additional fanseners. That being said other than making is easer to stand closer to the bars I found no need to remove it as I could get at everything from the sides.
 
You will enjoy them once you get the install completed. I read how much has to be removed to install the Tri-axis handlebars and decided to have the dealer do it when they were assembling my Spyder.

I would rather install the CB witch requires the removal of a lot of items instead of the handlebars.
 
The instructions are wrote assuming that your a tech. They leave most of the steps out because (if your a tech) you know how to remove all the prior parts.
 
I believe the 2014 is different in that it is held on with additional fanseners. That being said other than making is easer to stand closer to the bars I found no need to remove it as I could get at everything from the sides.

You are right, it does not have to come off. Thinking back, each time I did the handlebars I was also doing other things and removal of the frunk was as much a part of those items as the handlebars. I have not removed the Frunk on a 14 but would be interested to know where they are different. I know the radiators stay with the frame and the frunk comes away from them.
 
Back
Top