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Trailer pigtail
- Thread starter easysuper
- Start date
Cruzr Joe
New member
it is easier to change the square one to a flat one.
the flat ones fit better too.
(Just thinking outside the box)
Cruzr Joe
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
There is no adapter that I know of. There are several ways to address the problem, however.
1. Purchase a universal adapter from a trailer shop. This is a cable with four loose wires tied together in the middle. You can switch the wires around to fit any 4-wire connector shape...or even switch the light functions.
2. Purchase a square-4 pigtail and replace the flat-4 or splice it into your trailer so it has both.
3. Purchase a flat-4 pigtail and replace the Square-4 on the Spyder or splice it in and have both. I do not recommend this alternative because empty connectors on the live side can corrode or short out, and replacing the Spyder side with a flat-4 makes the harness an oddball as far as Spyders are concerned.
4. Purchase both flat-4 and square-4 pigtails and make your own adapter.
1. Purchase a universal adapter from a trailer shop. This is a cable with four loose wires tied together in the middle. You can switch the wires around to fit any 4-wire connector shape...or even switch the light functions.
2. Purchase a square-4 pigtail and replace the flat-4 or splice it into your trailer so it has both.
3. Purchase a flat-4 pigtail and replace the Square-4 on the Spyder or splice it in and have both. I do not recommend this alternative because empty connectors on the live side can corrode or short out, and replacing the Spyder side with a flat-4 makes the harness an oddball as far as Spyders are concerned.
4. Purchase both flat-4 and square-4 pigtails and make your own adapter.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Add a 5th one. Buy a 12" 4 flat extension, Hopkins #48145, and modify the one end as Magdave shows. You should be able to find one most anywhere that carries trailer wiring stuff.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
:agree:
Magdave
New member
Cheapest way to solve the problem I have found. BRP wants $65 for a $5 plug:dontknow:
Trickie Dick
New member
I had the same issue. I cut the flat 4 off my trailer and replaced it with the hopkins square 4.
http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-11147...86&sr=8-1&keywords=hopkins+square+4+connector Simple as it gets.
http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-11147...86&sr=8-1&keywords=hopkins+square+4+connector Simple as it gets.
Magdave
New member
I had the same issue. I cut the flat 4 off my trailer and replaced it with the hopkins square 4.
http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-11147...86&sr=8-1&keywords=hopkins+square+4+connector Simple as it gets.
I have those saved on amazon but you still have to splice. The solution I posted above all you have to do is cut the plug in 1/2 and glue them together. Splicing unless soldered and shrink wrapped tends to oxidize and ends up being a weak link. Still a viable way to do it though.:thumbup: Always remember to use Di Electric grease too.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
I recommend that if you splice you use Posi-taps and waterproof the spliced end with heat shrink tubing. If you replace the existing connector use waterproof butt splices.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
If the square fours are anything like a rectangular six, they can be a bear to plug/unplug even with grease on them. I have a set on my homemade trailer to enable pigtail changes and they are a lot harder to plug/unplug than the the 5 flat connector on the bike.I had the same issue. I cut the flat 4 off my trailer and replaced it with the hopkins square 4.
http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-11147...86&sr=8-1&keywords=hopkins+square+4+connector Simple as it gets.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
They may be a bit harder to unplug, but they are also a lot less likely to come loose going down the road. Everyone has his/her own preferences, but the truth is any type of connector designed for trailer use works acceptably.
Erags
New member
soldering and heat shrink
I like to make a good solder joint and the heat shrink each wire and then heat shrink every thing. Remember to offset the joint of each wire so it keeps the over all joint small. You can almost make it look like they isn't a splice in the wire. The make thing is a good solder joint and that isn't all that hard to do.
I like to make a good solder joint and the heat shrink each wire and then heat shrink every thing. Remember to offset the joint of each wire so it keeps the over all joint small. You can almost make it look like they isn't a splice in the wire. The make thing is a good solder joint and that isn't all that hard to do.
bluestratos
New member
I just reinstalled the trailer wiring on my bike and changed the 4 square to the 6 square so I can have a full time hot and an accessory line in the trailer. This allows me to keep my small fridge working whileI travel and or, charge my battery for the booster pack, camera or what not. I cannot find a good cap though so I am going to buy a second set and modify. WasWinger is correct as it takes more effort to do the 6 vs the 4 but works fine in practice.
NancysToy
Motorbike Professor
I have rectangular-6 connectors on all my trailers except the RT-622. I prefer them...even for simple 4-wire or 5-wire systems.
IdahoMtnSpyder
Active member
Are you buying the BRP hitch kit, or going with after market? Are you doing it yourself, or having the dealer do it? If you can stand to wait for a couple of days or so I will post my hitch project. I installed wiring to handle my 5 wire trailer which, like yours, has amber turn signals.
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