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Trailer load control for other than RT-622

Dragonfly

New member
Need some ideas on how to keep the load in my trailer (Nomad 18 sq. ft.) from shifting all over the place. I have a few milk crates and the inside is carpeted. Any and all ideas are welcomed.
 
I made a frame from 2x4's and screwed them to the floor...I made different size dividers that I could change the size of the inside compartments...I then screwed in hooks on top of the 2x4's so I could clip a netting over the things I was carrying...It has a torsion bar suspension and the fuller it, is the better things seem to stay put...
 
The BRP cargo management components use heavy-duty Velcro to stick their blocks to the carpet. You could purchase them or build your own from wood blocks, milk crates, etc., and stick them down with the hook side of HD Velcro. ATV or truck cargo nets could be rigged as bulkheads, with some hooks or wires and a little ingenuity. Blocks of styrofoam can fill the empty spaces to keep things in place without adding significant weight. Loops of wire or eyebolts can be installed to allow the use of bungee cords. Lots of ways to skin this cat...stare at it a while and I'm sure you will come up with something that works for you.
 
I use 2 router pads in my trailer RT622. The pads are about 1/8"thick rubber and keep items from sliding. They work very well. For those who are not familiar with wood woodworking, router pads are used to hold a wood piece from moving when shaping with a router. The pads can be purchased from Rockler, Grizzly, or other woodworking suppliers. It is a quick and cheap way of keeping items from sliding around in the trailer.
 
I found I had less trouble with things sliding as I did things bouncing around..Great ideas..I never thought about styrofoam blocks (I used blankets between object and netting) or the non stick pads..A combination of all of the above should keep things in place with the netting...Do most motorcycle pull-behind trailers have this torsion bar/no give suspension?
 
I found I had less trouble with things sliding as I did things bouncing around..Great ideas..I never thought about styrofoam blocks (I used blankets between object and netting) or the non stick pads..A combination of all of the above should keep things in place with the netting...Do most motorcycle pull-behind trailers have this torsion bar/no give suspension?

RT 622 has adjustable spring settings. Requires removing the wheels, but does allow for varying load weights. Have never had bouncing problems. Even when following BRP's recommended tire inflation guideline. Your shock settings may be to stiff for the load you're carrying. If, it is a 622 trailer.
 
RT 622 has adjustable spring settings. Requires removing the wheels, but does allow for varying load weights. Have never had bouncing problems. Even when following BRP's recommended tire inflation guideline. Your shock settings may be to stiff for the load you're carrying. If, it is a 622 trailer.

No,its not a BRP..its a fiberglass Escalade...I got what I paid for...lol
 
I found I had less trouble with things sliding as I did things bouncing around..Great ideas..I never thought about styrofoam blocks (I used blankets between object and netting) or the non stick pads..A combination of all of the above should keep things in place with the netting...Do most motorcycle pull-behind trailers have this torsion bar/no give suspension?
The RT-622 has a very soft, adjustable suspension. You almost never feel the bumps and the cargo rides very nicely. The torsion bar suspensions on other trailers can be pretty harsh, although some are soft enough for a 400 pound trailer/cargo load. If yours are adjustable, back them off a bit. If not, trailer damage and cargo bouncing are the order of the day. It is the nature of the beast. While the independent, coil-over suspensions like the RT-622 are the easiest riding, coil springs in the right rating can do well, too. Leaf springs and torsion bars also depend on their ratings, but still ride harsher than their coil spring brethren. Many motorcycle cargo trailers have 750 pound axle ratings, which is almost double what they need, so they ride even harder. An axle rating near that of the trailer GTWR will give the best ride.
 
I made a frame from 2x4's and screwed them to the floor...I made different size dividers that I could change the size of the inside compartments...I then screwed in hooks on top of the 2x4's so I could clip a netting over the things I was carrying...It has a torsion bar suspension and the fuller it, is the better things seem to stay put...

All great ideas, I like your idea cyclelover63 however I have a pile of 1x2 that would probably do the trick with some loop hooks for the bungee cords. My biggest concern is the tongue weight with all the heavy stuff sliding to the front of the trailer.
 
All great ideas, I like your idea cyclelover63 however I have a pile of 1x2 that would probably do the trick with some loop hooks for the bungee cords. My biggest concern is the tongue weight with all the heavy stuff sliding to the front of the trailer.

1x2's might work on yours...I think things would bounce over them in mine...lol...The first time I took it for the maiden voyage,I put my small tool box,a cooler and the spare in it...About a 100 miles later I opened it up and my tools were all over the place,the interior light lense and the screws were out...The metal trailers probably are better..More weight=less bounce on mine...
 
Cramming is the way to go

I just cram everything in there. It's so stuffed nothing can move. :roflblack:

Agree with you. On my old trailer nothing moved around much but that was when I use to carry all my camping gear which included sleeping pad, pillow, tent, etc. I have a new Liberty trailer en route and am hoping it will have the same capacity. Bought it for several reasons. First the price of $3495 delivered to my door is a heck of a lot better then the Can Am model Second the ice chest mounted on the tongue is smarter then having it inside with everything else. And finally the looks along with the luggage rack on top make it more functional. You have it all, more cost effective, storage and looks. And no I don't work for them
 
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