Trailer Hitch Plug holder

[NancysToy]

I just finished up restoring a pull between trailer. This trailer will be pull by my Spyder or by a friend's Goldwing. The GW is a 5 wire, so the trailer needed separate amber turn signals. When I received my trailer hitch it was the new 2013, with the 4 wire harness. So I had a problem.

This is how I wired the trailer to work with both bikes.

On the Spyder 4 wire plug

White wire - ground
Yellow wire - left turn (amber light)
Green wire - right turn (amber light)
Brown wire - tail lights/running lights (round lights)

Then I ran a red wire from the 5 wire side of the 5 to 4 wire module
The GW has a 6 wire plug a blue wire that not used.

The red wire to the brakes lights (round lights) and the light bar with a XP back-off module.

So the hook up on the Spyder is not a true 5 wire system, so the light works a little different between the two bikes. When hooked to the GW the amber lights only comes on with the left or right turn signals. On the Spyder the amber lights works as the turn signals and also come on with the brake lights. I have red lenses to replace the amber ones if I run into a problem with DOT.

Problem solved!

ToM
SpyderFest 2013

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Michigan law allows amber brake lights. I'd carry a copy of the law to educate some LEOs, if necessary. I can't speak to other states. My concern would be for following drivers not understanding the amber brake lights, when they are used to red. The amber just may not register in their brains. I'd switch to the reds to have red turn signals instead. JMHO

 

[SpyderDon]

My new toy all put together. All the lights work too...

 

[2ndChildhood]

Its great when a plan comes together

ToM
SpyderFest 2013

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[JJRider]

Sorry but I thought I read that Scotty mentioned NOT to splice into the Spyder 5 wire side before the module?

I will wire my Bushtec (Bushwacked) this weekend and will need to rewire the trailers turn signal and brake lights and turn the trailer from a 5 wire to a 4 wire.

 

[2ndChildhood]

I am using the all the wires on the 4 wire side, and the red wire for the main brake lights is hooked to the red wire on the 5 wire side. It is working great for me. The only thing is the amber and main red lights comes on when braking. I made it to Spyderfest without any problems with the trailer.


Be Safe
ToM

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[JJRider]

Thank you Tom for the info. I wonder what the reason would be (Scotty) that we are not supposed to wire before the module?

 

[NancysToy]

Thank you Tom for the info. I wonder what the reason would be (Scotty) that we are not supposed to wire before the module?

I don't recall ever saying that. The only caution that I would have would be that wiring before the module (which is the same as tapping into the wires without a module) would not provide an isolated (self-powered) output, as the module does. Also, you cannot get a 4-wire connection that way without an additional converter.

 

[JJRider]

Scotty, I probably worded it wrong, but what you said above as a word of caution when wiring before the isolation module is what I should have quoted.

I finished the wiring today to allow the new Bushtec Turbo 2 to work with the Spyder.

• 2012 Spyder RT-S
• "new" 2013 BRP Hitch and Harness (4 pin square connector mounted to lower left side case)
• 2013 Bushtec Turbo 2+ Trailer with 6 pin Flat Harness

(sending back the Bushtech Isolator package that they said I "HAD" to have even after explaining why I didn't need it with the new hitch and harness)

• Purchased a Hopkins 4 pin Square connector off Amazon

I decided not to wire a 5th wire before the Spyder module and instead re-wired the lights on the Bushtec trailer. I ordered the trailer with LED turn signals and LED brake/taillights. Since the Bushtec is a 6 pin flat harness, I did not use the blue (brake light) or the black (12v powered) wires. I re-wired the turn signals and the taillights together as a 4 wire system. Now to go get Calif. DMV approval. Ugh!

I purchased one of the lesser priced Bushtec trailers but by the time it was built and shipped, and ordered the heim joint for the Spyder hitch I was getting close in price to a nice matching RT-622.

 

[Dragonfly]

2013 hitch installation

Yes, I have installed the 2013 hitch on my 2012 RTL. No problems at all. It took about half hour to install the hitch. The harness was the hardest part to run, it took about hour and a half.


ToM
SpyderFest 2013

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I appreciate your confidence.
I received my BRP hitch last week for my 2013 RT and the hitch mounting does look fairly easy, however I'm totally lost with the wiring harness since the instructions that came with it is nothing but some close up pictures and I'm guessing at having to take off most of the rear Tupperware. Any advice would be appreciated :bowdown:

 

[NancysToy]

I appreciate your confidence.
I received my BRP hitch last week for my 2013 RT and the hitch mounting does look fairly easy, however I'm totally lost with the wiring harness since the instructions that came with it is nothing but some close up pictures and I'm guessing at having to take off most of the rear Tupperware. Any advice would be appreciated :bowdown:

The instructions are more than pictures. They tell which tupperware to remove.

 

[jaherbst]

DSCN5236.jpg (41.4 KB)If the picture downloads it's the cable I received, can anyone tell me what it is?

Thats the standard harness for the trailer prior to 2013. DO NOT SPLICE! It goes through the tongue of the R622 triler and connects about a foot back underneath the trailer. Thats why it is 6 feet long. I replaced with a 2013 square four prong harness to plug into the new 2013 RTS hitch. No splicing required. PLUG AND PLAY. Now if you are trying to hook up a non BRP trailer you have a different problem. Remember this is a CAN BUSS electrical system and many things are driven through the plugs such as your VSS which is read from sensors off the R622 whells. A non BRP trailer hookup voids your warranty. I have a four year warranty which is why I went with a BRP trailer. The RTS is 2013 and the R622 is a 2012.Jack

 

[NancysToy]

Thats the standard harness for the trailer prior to 2013. DO NOT SPLICE! It goes through the tongue of the R622 triler and connects about a foot back underneath the trailer. Thats why it is 6 feet long. I replaced with a 2013 square four prong harness to plug into the new 2013 RTS hitch. No splicing required. PLUG AND PLAY. Now if you are trying to hook up a non BRP trailer you have a different problem. Remember this is a CAN BUSS electrical system and many things are driven through the plugs such as your VSS which is read from sensors off the R622 whells. A non BRP trailer hookup voids your warranty. I have a four year warranty which is why I went with a BRP trailer. The RTS is 2013 and the R622 is a 2012.Jack

None of the trailer wiring except the module itself (on the brake light circuit) is monitored by the CANbus. Nothing is connected to the CANbus directly. The trailer does not affect the VSS and there are no sensors in the RT-622. I understand that the 2013 will sense the lighting load and switch to trailer mode automatically on the SE, but I have not verified that. Earlier Spyders and SMs do not do so. You will not invalidate your warranty by connecting a non-BRP trailer or wiring...although related problems may not be covered if they can be shown to have been caused by or aggravated by the connection. That is the law in the US.

 

[Gray Ghost]

I have a 2013 RT pulling a 2010 622. The RT doesn't switch automatically to the trailer mode on mine.

 

[Dragonfly]

The instructions are more than pictures. They tell which tupperware to remove.

Took some guessing and after leaving a pint of blood (sharp edges) I got the wiring done. The accompanying instruction manual only had pictures with arrows for the harness installation. The two items that where not discussed in the instructions, (1) a small screw inside each side of the lower fender (2) the battery cover under the seat for pre 2013s shows lifted up but in reality that cover needed to be removed and passenger hand hold heater cable unplugged. Other than that it was a 2 1/2 hr. job.

Two other points I noticed in the instructions (1) it says to hold the nut with a wrench and tighten the bolt (backwards) and (2) there is nothing in the instructions that tells to reinstall the carter key on the original nut when not using the hitch or is the long bolt inserted back through the axle even without the hitch? What is the downside for leaving the hitch on the bike?

 

[NancysToy]

Took some guessing and after leaving a pint of blood (sharp edges) I got the wiring done. The accompanying instruction manual only had pictures with arrows for the harness installation. The two items that where not discussed in the instructions, (1) a small screw inside each side of the lower fender (2) the battery cover under the seat for pre 2013s shows lifted up but in reality that cover needed to be removed and passenger hand hold heater cable unplugged. Other than that it was a 2 1/2 hr. job.

Two other points I noticed in the instructions (1) it says to hold the nut with a wrench and tighten the bolt (backwards) and (2) there is nothing in the instructions that tells to reinstall the carter key on the original nut when not using the hitch or is the long bolt inserted back through the axle even without the hitch? What is the downside for leaving the hitch on the bike?

Surprised that the instructions no longer have written directions. I'd love a copy if you scan them sometime. PM me if you do.

You put the cotter key back in the axle when the hitch is removed. I don't know about now, but they used to include extra cotter keys for that purpose. The biggest problems with leaving the hitch on are that:
A. Dirt and dust build-up between the hitch and the swingarm can damage the swingarm paint (powdercoat).
B. If the hitch pin is left in place, it can corrode tightly into the axle (or hitch) if the Spyder is ridden regularly in the snow and salt.
C. The heat can eventually make the teflon pads stick to the swingarm, making the hitch difficulkt to remove and possibly damaging the pads.

A light coat of silicone grease on the teflon pads and the hitch pin can prevent these problems. The hitch has to be removed to change the rear tire, BTW, so it will have to come off periodically anyway. I leave mine on all the time.