currin20fan
GOS member (Girls On Spyders)
Has anyone built a trailer to haul and Spyder & a two wheeler on the same trailer? Where/how do you start to do this?:dontknow:
I have good news and bad news. I do haul a Spyder and 1-2 bikes together. That's the good news. The bad news is that I did not build the trailer, I use a 7'x12' V-nose enclosed trailer. For a heavier bike, over 500 pounds, I would recommend an even longer trailer. The key to this is figuring out the motorcycle/Spyder and axle positions, to keep the trailer balanced side-to-side and allow for adequate loaded tongue weight. 10%-20% tongue weight is normal. I personally prefer to have at least 15% for the best handling. I generally figure the center of gravity of the bikes and Spyder are around the center of the engine, for calculating the rough loading. With trailer dimensions and material weights, geometry will allow you calculate the approximate axle position and loaded tongue weight. I would not make things fit too tightly. It is typical to have to make slight adjustments in the loading positions to balance the trailer. After you find the right spots, you can then fasten down the chocks and place the tie-downs. Best of luck with your project...if you don't just buy a large flatbed or enclosed trailer and figure it out by trial and error.
I think placement of the 2-wheeler will depend upon overall trailer balance. As Scotty said, it's important to have 10-15% of the total weight of the trailer and load on the tongue.
To measure tongue weight I raise the trailer hitch to the height it will be when attached to the tow vehicle, and then either using the trailer jack or a 2X4, place the trailer tongue on a bathroom scale and read the weight. Weighing the tongue at towing height is important because tongue weight will vary at different heights.
I do not think what you are saying is accurate. The tounge weight will be different once the load is on the trailer and compressing your trucks shocks. So the hieght surely will be different with the load. You will only be able to measure tounge wieght with the load attached unless I'm missing something ???
My truck drops about a foot in hieght when I attach the trailer to it.
I am not a trailer expert, but the first thing I would do is load it all for travel, then slowly take it to be weighted on a commerical truck scale. It may be that you are over gross weight rating by the truck manufacter and Spring/tire weight rating.Mark I'm not sure. I fill the bed of my truck with wood for camping and connect my Spyder camper to it. The rear of my truck definitly sits lower than the front.
I also have dual axels and 15 rims for 7,500 # gross wieght. But mines only 14 ' long. Say no more about the gas milage. I know all to well how much that costs. nojoke My Tundra is at 9 MPG towing my Spyder and camper.
I do not think what you are saying is accurate. The tounge weight will be different once the load is on the trailer and compressing your trucks shocks. So the hieght surely will be different with the load. You will only be able to measure tounge wieght with the load attached unless I'm missing something ???
My truck drops about a foot in hieght when I attach the trailer to it.
I have good news and bad news. I do haul a Spyder and 1-2 bikes together. That's the good news. The bad news is that I did not build the trailer, I use a 7'x12' V-nose enclosed trailer. For a heavier bike, over 500 pounds, I would recommend an even longer trailer. The key to this is figuring out the motorcycle/Spyder and axle positions, to keep the trailer balanced side-to-side and allow for adequate loaded tongue weight. 10%-20% tongue weight is normal. I personally prefer to have at least 15% for the best handling. I generally figure the center of gravity of the bikes and Spyder are around the center of the engine, for calculating the rough loading. With trailer dimensions and material weights, geometry will allow you calculate the approximate axle position and loaded tongue weight. I would not make things fit too tightly. It is typical to have to make slight adjustments in the loading positions to balance the trailer. After you find the right spots, you can then fasten down the chocks and place the tie-downs. Best of luck with your project...if you don't just buy a large flatbed or enclosed trailer and figure it out by trial and error.
I'm not sure if I could work in something as big as the HD Ultra or not. The width of the bike is the main problem, although length becomes an issue from a tie-down standpoint. For a bit more clearance the Spyder rear can be angled, and the bike loaded backwards. Lloaded on the left rear of the Spyder, it is fairly tight for a bike between the wall and the Spyder, but it does fit. Not a problem for getting the my BMW RT in, but no good place to tie it down, so I have not carried that with the Spyder. I could probably move the chocks for the Spyder and the bike farther toward the walls and sneak by, but I haven't tried. I have loaded my BMW R75/5 many times, though, as well as an additional small bike on the right side The best way to see if things fit is by trial and error. When you have an afternoon to spare, load things, and move them around, checking tongue weight and measuring the height at each side near the wheel to see if the load is even side-to-side. Part of the viability of this will be the actual size and shape of the trailer. My trailer is fairly narrow. It may be listed as 7' wide, but it is more like 6'8" inside, and 6'4" at the door cables. The wider the better. My V-nose is a full three feet deep, which allows the Spyder nose to fit very far forward, and leaves more room for bikes. Some v-nose trailers are only two feet deep or less up front.What bikes do you haul in your trailer with your Spyder? We have a 7x12 v-nose but not sure if it's workable to haul my Spyder and hubby's HD Ultra together....he says no. I've had my Spyder in it a couple times but haven't really devised whether or not it would work for both. :dontknow: Your thoughts?