• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Trailer Adapter

jthornton

New member
I guess I'm struggling with if I want to purchase the round (trailer end) to square (spyder end) adapter or just cutting the round plug off and wiring up a square one. Any thoughts on this?

Edit: anyone come up with a 4 wire square connector with a cord type of pigtail instead of the loose wires?

JT
 
Last edited:
With a little planning, and some heat shrink, the loose wires become round. The 4 square plug set is available on Amazon, the color code is the same, and some measuring and soldering, covered with heat shrink tubing, will make a decent pigtail.

john
 
Noticed you have a 2012. So you have a RT-622 and you want to connect to your RT-S that has the new 2013 Hitch? I have a 2012 RT-S and added a Bushtec trailer which has a unique flat 6 pin connector. I bought the Amazon listed Hopkins Square Four and then cut and spliced it into the "extra" connector that I purchased from Bushtec. So somewhat similar to what you would have to do with the 9 pin round. I understand not wanting to cut off the end but it sounds like even BRP is getting away from the 9 pin connectors. I took detailed notes so if you can use them I will email them.
 
You can just splice in the sqaure-4 if you prefer. Much cheaper than the alternative. If you cut off the excess cable and the round connector, you should be able to sell it to someone looking to make an adapter to the earlier style hitch/harness. You can also check a NAPA store or a trailer/RV shop for the square-4 connector. They aren't everywhere, but they are around.
 
My dealer tried to convince me to accept a 2012 trailer in place of the 2013 that would match my bike. He said he would simply put 2013 wheels on it and provide a "hitch adapter". If this would have required splicing I'm doubly glad I said no. He made it sound like a simple plug and play affair.
 
My dealer tried to convince me to accept a 2012 trailer in place of the 2013 that would match my bike. He said he would simply put 2013 wheels on it and provide a "hitch adapter". If this would have required splicing I'm doubly glad I said no. He made it sound like a simple plug and play affair.
Part #710003227 is a replacement tongue harness that converts the 2011 or 2012 trailer to the square-4 hitch on the Spyder. No splicing is required. MSRP $39.99. Your dealer was not wrong. This harness will not convert the 2010 trailer without modification. A square-4 pigtail is cheaper, though.
 
Part #710003227 is a replacement tongue harness that converts the 2011 or 2012 trailer to the square-4 hitch on the Spyder. No splicing is required. MSRP $39.99. Your dealer was not wrong. This harness will not convert the 2010 trailer without modification. A square-4 pigtail is cheaper, though.

exactly this. I just bought a 2011 trailer for my 2011 spyder.. unfortunately, I could only get the 2013 hitch, which had the square connection.
 
Part #710003227 is a replacement tongue harness that converts the 2011 or 2012 trailer to the square-4 hitch on the Spyder. No splicing is required. MSRP $39.99. Your dealer was not wrong. This harness will not convert the 2010 trailer without modification. A square-4 pigtail is cheaper, though.

The 710003227 is exactly what I was looking for, thanks for the part number. Do I need to modify the 2010 trailer to use this?

JT
 
The 710003227 is exactly what I was looking for, thanks for the part number. Do I need to modify the 2010 trailer to use this?

JT

That tongue harness will not directly connect to the 2010 trailer. The 2010 has different connectors at the trailer end, more wires, and different wire colors. You will have to select the necessary wires the same way you would with a trailer shop connector, and splice in the new harness the same way...but in a more inconvenient place. I would use a plain old pigtail with a 2010 myself...less work and the connections are not inside the tongue/body.

The 2010 trailer tongue harness colors and functions should be as follows:

Black = Ground
Brown = Running Lights
Orange = Left Brake (and turn for 2011 & newer modules)
Blue = Left Turn (not used with 2011 and newer trailer module)
Red = Right Brake (and turn for 2011 & newer modules)
Green = Right Turn (not used with 2011 & newer trailer modules)
Yellow = Back-up (not used for any year trailer)

Please note that the wire colors in the trailer itself, and on the Spyder, are different from these.
 
I just looked under the trailer and there is a 6-8 pin plug right under the front of the trailer. I can see if I used the 710003227 I would need to splice into the larger plug. It sill looks like a cleaner install using the factory molded plug at the hitch end. For $40 I'll give it a go.

Thanks again for the info.

JT
 
Just crawling under the trailer and it looks easy enough to pull the old harness out leaving a tag line and swap the plugs out on the bench then pull it back in.

I assume I need to pick up the brake light wires and the running lights on the trailer and leave the rest unconnected?

JT
 
I just looked under the trailer and there is a 6-8 pin plug right under the front of the trailer. I can see if I used the 710003227 I would need to splice into the larger plug. It sill looks like a cleaner install using the factory molded plug at the hitch end. For $40 I'll give it a go.

Thanks again for the info.

JT
Yes, that plug does not mate with the adapter harness, as the later trailers used a locking plug. The wire locations may be different, too. It may plug in, however, I am not sure. Biggest pain is feeding the harnesses through the tongue. It is cleaner, but not easier.
 
NancysToy

You should start producing the adapters! I think you have the opportunity to make a lot of money. Those with little or no experience with electrical would pay $$$ for the correct adapter!

Jut sayin!
 
Yes, that plug does not mate with the adapter harness, as the later trailers used a locking plug. The wire locations may be different, too. It may plug in, however, I am not sure. Biggest pain is feeding the harnesses through the tongue. It is cleaner, but not easier.

I was not clear, I'm going to cut the plugs (at the trailer end) off of both harnesses and splice the 2010 plug to the 2011/12 harness. Leaving a pull line should make the in and out a piece of pie. This will leave me with a 2012/2010 harness.

JT
 
I was not clear, I'm going to cut the plugs (at the trailer end) off of both harnesses and splice the 2010 plug to the 2011/12 harness. Leaving a pull line should make the in and out a piece of pie. This will leave me with a 2012/2010 harness.

JT

That should do it. I'd cut it near the underbody connector, but leave the existing connector so the modified tongue harness can still be disconnected if need be for trailer maintenance.
 
I'm thinking of creating an extention from the RT's plug and reach close to the end of the hitch. The clips on the hitch are very weak and the cable seems to slip of, so if I create an extention, I can zip-tie it. What gauge cables should I use?
 
That should do it. I'd cut it near the underbody connector, but leave the existing connector so the modified tongue harness can still be disconnected if need be for trailer maintenance.

Yep, that is my plan.

I just took the inside cover off of the left side and took a close look at the tail light. There are two incandescent bulbs and the LED which has 3 wires. When I connect up the to the bike is the LED the only part of the tail light that is used? I notice on the bike the LED has both running lights and brake lights.

JT
 
Yep, that is my plan.

I just took the inside cover off of the left side and took a close look at the tail light. There are two incandescent bulbs and the LED which has 3 wires. When I connect up the to the bike is the LED the only part of the tail light that is used? I notice on the bike the LED has both running lights and brake lights.

JT
Yes, only the LED part of the light will be functional. The use of the separate turn signals were abandoned after 2010. Don't go by the wire colors in the back (behind the underbody connector), they are different.
 
Back
Top