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towing 3 wheels down

Tow your 2012RT spyder on a trailer, behind your RV, tie your spyder down with a strap.

Run the strap underneath the spyder ( so it wont scratch your tupperware) and on top of the center of the rear tire, secure it on the front of the trailer.


Send a pm to Mike,( Blueknight911) he can help you. Deanna
 
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Trailer rails

Whatever you do, DON'T buy a trailer with siderails. Unless you have a lot of clearance, it's miserable to load the bike. My trailer was four inches wider than my F-3 and it would take a half hour or more to load because you have NO room to turn the front wheels. I just removed everything above the load bed with a bandsaw except for the front bulkhead and the rear eight inches which support the tailgate and the lights. Things are much easier now. You also need at least a five to six foot ramp in order to keep from high centering as you load the bike.
 
This one works great for an RT

I know that has been a lot of discussion about trailer size, what size is recommended for a RT?QUOTE]

From an earlier post of mine:

Get the dimensions and literature: http://www.droptailtrailers.com/

I use it for EITHER the Spyder or the Gold Wing. I must use the center position for the Gold Wing as it will not fit on the left or right side of the trailer due to length. We trailer our 2014 RT Limited with no problem with this trailer and it "noses" up in the V part of the trailer against our 20" stone guard (which is optional). The 4 pictures added at bottom were just a couple months ago....note that I do NOT transport with the cover on it. I only cover the Spyder when leaving it out overnight! Also, all the tie down straps were removed at this time as it was parked.

We use a Droptail trailer. I really like that it folds and stores upright in the garage and NO ramps needed - built in. Works well for the Spyder with the low clearance. The back of the trailer hydraulically lowers and the built in rear gate folds down to extend the ramp portion. Easy to use. Our Spyder RT just fits and the nose of the Spyder fits in the V part of the front of the trailer. Not a lot of spare room, but works well. The Spyder fills the whole trailer even though this is a "two up" motorcycle trailer. A bonus for us is that our Gold Wing can be hauled on this trailer (with the use of the wheel chock that is included with the trailer) as well - however, only one bike at a time (unless you have two - 2 wheel motorcycles that are "short" enough). There is a standard 8 inch stone guard and an optional 20" stone guard. I did add the 20" stone guard on our trailer. Also, we purchased an optional spare tire which bolts to the bottom of the trailer. It has a steel frame with an aluminum deck with lots of tie down points!

Here's some info on the model number and a few pics: Drop - Tail "Two - Up" Cruiser / Sport Bike Trailer, model number: 03-DCT2200-02

Good luck on your choice of trailers - there are a lot of good trailers out there that work!! :thumbup:


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I don't know if anyone has tried this system. Take a look at http://www.motorcycle-rack.com/CanAm_Tow_System.html

It might be what you are looking for. If anyone out there has tried this, please let me know.

I just looked at this towing system on the company web site. My question is what keeps the front wheels from trying or succeeding from turning (trying to steer) while being towed. When a car is towed with the front wheels down, the steering wheel has to be locked in place.
 
the

I just looked at this towing system on the company web site. My question is what keeps the front wheels from trying or succeeding from turning (trying to steer) while being towed. When a car is towed with the front wheels down, the steering wheel has to be locked in place.
The natural tendency should be for the tires to track straight. :thumbup:
 
MAYBE

Whatever you do, DON'T buy a trailer with siderails. Unless you have a lot of clearance, it's miserable to load the bike. My trailer was four inches wider than my F-3 and it would take a half hour or more to load because you have NO room to turn the front wheels. I just removed everything above the load bed with a bandsaw except for the front bulkhead and the rear eight inches which support the tailgate and the lights. Things are much easier now. You also need at least a five to six foot ramp in order to keep from high centering as you load the bike.
Hopefully you didn't substantially WEAKEN the structure ...... If those top rails were part of the estimated load carrying capacity ........ Your trailer could have a Major frame break at some point down the road ...... JMHO ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
cuttinig rails

Hopefully you didn't substantially WEAKEN the structure ...... If those top rails were part of the estimated load carrying capacity ........ Your trailer could have a Major frame break at some point down the road ...... JMHO ..... Mike :thumbup:

No, the rails were just superstructure, there is still a solid frame as well as perimeter railing at the under deck level. Plus the rated capacity of the trailer is over twice the weight of my F-3. If I see evidence of failure, I'll have it reinforced.
 
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TRAILER STRENGHT

No, the rails were just superstructure, there is still a solid frame as well as perimeter railing at the under deck level. Plus the rated capacity of the trailer is over twice the weight of my F-3. If I see evidence of failure, I'll have it reinforced.
Thanks for checking and reporting back :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:........... Mike :ohyea:
 
Like Bob said, get a 6'x10' enclosed trailer with a rear load door-ramp. You can put some shelves in there for more of your camping/travel gear too. I got a real nice one for $3,200.00 new. :bowdown:
 
?......
I would NEVER flat tow anything. My uncle has had 2 flat tires on his towed vehicles which caused thousands of dollars in damage. By the time you realize the towed vehicle has a flat tire, its too late.

Another very good reason to use fobo tpm imho. Or some other tpm.
 
It sounds like you have a good sized motorhome if you have a 1000# tongue weight with a 10,000 capacity. I would use an enclosed trailer. We towed a motorcycle across the country on an unenclosed trailer. I was not pleased on how dirty it got. Plus, you can use the extra room for storing other items. I guess it would also depend on how far and how long you would be on the road.

We now tow a 6X12 enclosed trailer that contains my Scout plus all sorts of various tools and stuff for our 4 month stint as campground hosts in the Upper Peninsula of Mich. You can find a 6X12 for around $4K or less, if used.
 
towing

Check out the Ironhorse trailer. Expensive but a joy to use. I used it last year a spyderfest. Plan to use it again at this year's spyderfest. It would be great to tow behind a motorhome.
 
6.5 x 10 Trailer

Cargo mate will make you a 6.5 x 10 or 12 trailer. I got a 6.5 x 10 for $2400 purchased in Elkhart IN. so no shipping etc. Had to pay registration and sales tax in Illinois, but it wasn't much. Perfect size. Notice how the ramp goes all the way out to the outer edges and gives more room to get in.
 

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I just bought a 7+12 ft v-nose trailer for $2995.00 from Patriot perfect size with room to spare at front wheels

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
I have a 45' RV with a 400HP Cummins on a freightliner chassis.
I'm trying not to be too much longer than I am right now. We already have a problem getting into an RV park.
I either need to build one or buy one locally because once I leave we will not be back here till January. We are leaving in 2 weeks and we can't stay in South Florida any longer. The city is forcing me to leave by March 7, or pay a fine of $150. per day.
I think I just found a trailer. Aluminum 8.5X10' bed. Used he said he bought it about 5 years ago used so he doesn't know how old it is. The tires are original so I will replace them before I leave. I'm going to look at it this weekend or before
 
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